Check the thickness of metal in the pipe wall on the outside of a bend. Flowing oil eventually wears metal pipes thin and useless.Well, as a Friday pm discovery and a Sat am stripdown and 1/2 hour very local attempted repair, no big odds, and tomorrow being Monday, I will price the pipe(which had been welded before at the flange, so perhaps prudent)
Anyway I was looking an excuse to buy a MAPP torch, which may or may not have put up enough heat to braze(opinions seem to vary), and also as a handy heat source for stubborn seized nuts.
And I actually like fixing things, if possible.
re the above, I cannot believe peening could fix/would fix a split steel hydraulic pipe.
Take pipe off and gently heat with gas around leaking area crack will some show up under heatThe nominal 15mm OD pipe from the pump to the valve block, is cracked somewhere near a bend, "pissing" oil upwards, but only when at maximium pressure (i.e. when the PRV is working)
I had thought I had "near-enough" found the leak location, but v hard to properly see while "in-situ", and I figured that the crack would become visible after buffing up prior to brazing.
NOPE, no crack to be seen, so I got the whole proximate area brazed, but on re-fitting it is still leaking.
How do I best pinpoint the leak location?
I refrained from using the point of my finger to pin-point the leak.