best way of finding/defining a crack in a steel hydraulic pipe

Robt

Member
Location
Suffolk
How much is a new pipe? Time you've wasted painting/fountain pen inking/taping/brazing etc you could have bought a new one! If it's cracked once it'll probably crack again ?
 

banjo

Member
Location
Back of beyond
A trick I used to do on steel pipes on an excavator, is to peen the pipe with the back of a hammer. Just tap the pipe on the leak and it will close the leak or open it up, just loads of little taps in that area. I fixed many a leak on boom pipes like that and with big oil pressure of a harvester head.
 
Well, as a Friday pm discovery and a Sat am stripdown and 1/2 hour very local attempted repair, no big odds, and tomorrow being Monday, I will price the pipe(which had been welded before at the flange, so perhaps prudent)
Anyway I was looking an excuse to buy a MAPP torch, which may or may not have put up enough heat to braze(opinions seem to vary), and also as a handy heat source for stubborn seized nuts.
And I actually like fixing things, if possible.
ps
re the above, I cannot believe peening could fix/would fix a split steel hydraulic pipe.
cheers again
the hatter
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Well, as a Friday pm discovery and a Sat am stripdown and 1/2 hour very local attempted repair, no big odds, and tomorrow being Monday, I will price the pipe(which had been welded before at the flange, so perhaps prudent)
Anyway I was looking an excuse to buy a MAPP torch, which may or may not have put up enough heat to braze(opinions seem to vary), and also as a handy heat source for stubborn seized nuts.
And I actually like fixing things, if possible.
ps
re the above, I cannot believe peening could fix/would fix a split steel hydraulic pipe.
cheers again
the hatter
Check the thickness of metal in the pipe wall on the outside of a bend. Flowing oil eventually wears metal pipes thin and useless.
 
Well, Hi Sur,
Ah am sure proper getting the hang of un-fitting & refitting this pipe, as in, lemme see?, well shucks actually only off and on 3 times in total ,
BUT it is now fixed, once brazed(which cost £5.00) where it was actually leaking.
On reflection I can only surmize the genuinely very very tough paint, trapped the leak at source and allowed it to travel 40 mm or so before revealing itself.
Since when I refitted the pipe sans paint(and the failed brazing being ground off as well), the leak was easy to locate, where one would expect, on the bend.
Simples! (in hindsight of course)

The dealership is still apparently brushing up on their Korean, after they first sourced the password needed to access the parts system, my enquiry being their first!

I wonder?

Should I arrange for a press release at the eventual successful parts handover?
 

sawdust

Member
Location
Argyll
The nominal 15mm OD pipe from the pump to the valve block, is cracked somewhere near a bend, "pissing" oil upwards, but only when at maximium pressure (i.e. when the PRV is working)
I had thought I had "near-enough" found the leak location, but v hard to properly see while "in-situ", and I figured that the crack would become visible after buffing up prior to brazing.
NOPE, no crack to be seen, so I got the whole proximate area brazed, but on re-fitting it is still leaking.
How do I best pinpoint the leak location?
cheers
mth
P.S.
I refrained from using the point of my finger to pin-point the leak.
Take pipe off and gently heat with gas around leaking area crack will some show up under heat(y)
 

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