Browns 5m Grass Master Harrow

Kezman50

Member
Recently bought the Browns Grass Master, 5m version, and was wondering if any owners could give me one or two pointers as to it’s operation.

It’s on the back of my MF 398 so for me the depth wheel height is a no brainier with pin set at two holes showing above the bracket. Where I’m a little uncertain is with the pivoting arms at the rear end as they go into the ’hoop’. The manual seems to imply that you should extend the top link out to ”Pressurise the tines” i.e lean the ends down from level a bit so they generally sit at the bottom of the hoop In operation. This puts some lean/weight on the tines and in the long term doesn’t prematurely wear the hoop or indeed the chain holding the tine frame at the other end. Suppose my question here is are owners aggressive with the top link, to the point where the end of the arms are down on the hoop hard? Or do you like to see the arm ends floating in the hoop a bit? If that makes sense.

Also experimenting with ground speed, tend to be about 6 ish mph seeing the tines ”chatter“ a bit at that but should I typically be going a bit faster? Fields are generally flat.

Finally, occasionally when going along the implement will suddenly wackle and shackle a bit (sorry can’t think of a better way to describe it) think its often down to me entering a patch of uneven ground, that then sets it off. Is this generally normal and just ignore it? Or is it a sign that set up is not right somewhere. On this point wondering if the 6m suffers this, as that has an extra set up wheels that must surely improve stability. Personally think the 5m should of had 4 wheels as well. The Einbock have 4 wheels from 4.5m versions upwards.

Appreciate that grass harrows aren’t the most complicated implement but might as well try and get it right from the start.

Any comment appreciated. Cheers.
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
Also I don't run our 6m on the wheels all the time I set the lift up on the tractor so the wheels are there to carry it only if things get really rough. Running them on the ground means punctures lots of punctures
 

Kezman50

Member
To ”Still Farming” yes, each bloc of tines (3) has a turn buckle so that you can adjust the angle of the tines. I’ve only had a few weeks and only had a chance in the last few days to jump on it as just finished lambing but at the moment I’ve set them a bit more laid back (less aggressive) I figured I would start easy then slowly dial in a bit more aggression with the tines as I learn about the machine.
 

Kezman50

Member
Also I don't run our 6m on the wheels all the time I set the lift up on the tractor so the wheels are there to carry it only if things get really rough. Running them on the ground means punctures lots of punctures
KB6930, your the kind of chap I was hoping would reply. Interesting point reg wheels. My dealer mentioned about having the wheels so your hand can just fit underneath. Do you know what I mean when I mention a bit of a wobble shackle on occasion? It’s not all the time at all for me just I think because a 5m span your occasionally going to encounter a difference in contour from left to right or vice versa. I wondering if perhaps you don’t typically experience this so much having those extra set of wheels at the outer edge. Another thing for me is because it’;s a new machine my back window is open as I’m constantly looking behind seeing how it’s doing. I’ve not doubt at some point with confidence I’ll typically having the back window shut and not hearing the various clanging noises. As you know the depth wheels are only clamped onto the frame. Wonder if it’s an option to have an extra set of wheels put on a 5 meter?

Is your ground speed typically 8-10k?
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
KB6930, your the kind of chap I was hoping would reply. Interesting point reg wheels. My dealer mentioned about having the wheels so your hand can just fit underneath. Do you know what I mean when I mention a bit of a wobble shackle on occasion? It’s not all the time at all for me just I think because a 5m span your occasionally going to encounter a difference in contour from left to right or vice versa. I wondering if perhaps you don’t typically experience this so much having those extra set of wheels at the outer edge. Another thing for me is because it’;s a new machine my back window is open as I’m constantly looking behind seeing how it’s doing. I’ve not doubt at some point with confidence I’ll typically having the back window shut and not hearing the various clanging noises. As you know the depth wheels are only clamped onto the frame. Wonder if it’s an option to have an extra set of wheels put on a 5 meter?

Is your ground speed typically 8-10k?
Yeah all sounds normal to me .

There's no reason why an extra set of wheels couldn't be clamped on I'll get you a pic later as it's in a shed where I'll be getting fert from
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
Just clamped on so cant see why you couldn't.

Tines on full aggression or find it doesn't do a lot and also cant get it close enough to the ground because of the rear steps
 

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KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
We got it for sowing grass etc .

I find to get moss etc out you have to be pretty savage probably 3 passes to make a good job with it my boss always gets concerned about being rough on grass but it does it the world of good
 

IOW91

Member
Livestock Farmer
Sorry to revive an old thread, should be getting a set of 6M grass harrows, shelbourne parmiter if all goes to plan. Do you run the spool in float when operating or unfold and leave?

I used to use a twose set years ago Im sure that had an accumulator so you didn't have to run in float.

I don't think the shelbourne set do have an accumulator.


Thanks.
 

Kezman50

Member
As for me, I’m on an old Mf 398 tractor which unfortunately doesn’t have a float setting. To which for mowing you would be glad of. As KB6930 said it sounds as though for the grass harrow application you wouldn’t want it in float.

I’ve always thought of it in terms of if you were in your garden with a wire fan rake you would bet giving some body weight onto your rake if you were trying to get moss and thatch out wouldn’t you….. it’s exactly the same thing on a tractor scale 👍
 

IOW91

Member
Livestock Farmer
As for me, I’m on an old Mf 398 tractor which unfortunately doesn’t have a float setting. To which for mowing you would be glad of. As KB6930 said it sounds as though for the grass harrow application you wouldn’t want it in float.

I’ve always thought of it in terms of if you were in your garden with a wire fan rake you would bet giving some body weight onto your rake if you were trying to get moss and thatch out wouldn’t you….. it’s exactly the same thing on a tractor scale 👍
Yeah I was thinking along the same lines. Regards To the fan rake theory. Just wanted to double check as I haven't used grass harrows in a long time and remember someone saying something about it before, years ago.

I run my 6 rotor tedder in float and the mower bed aswell. But you just want them to follow the ground.

What KB6930 said makes perfect sense 👍. Thankyou to both of you for your replies.
 

Horn&corn

Member
As for me, I’m on an old Mf 398 tractor which unfortunately doesn’t have a float setting. To which for mowing you would be glad of. As KB6930 said it sounds as though for the grass harrow application you wouldn’t want it in float.

I’ve always thought of it in terms of if you were in your garden with a wire fan rake you would bet giving some body weight onto your rake if you were trying to get moss and thatch out wouldn’t you….. it’s exactly the same thing on a tractor scale 👍
You sure you don’t have float? Pretty sure the one I drove did have it 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

Kezman50

Member
Apparently you can have a float option fitted but it wasn’t standard like it typically would be on a tractor now. At 1989 in my case, it’s from that era….
 

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