Case 1494 hydrashift problem.

[DrWazzock]

Was power harrowing yesterday in 2nd gear in the 3rd gear of the hydrashift. Pulled the hydrashift back to 1st notch and carried on power harrowing but then moved the hydrashift back up to 3rd notch and there was no change. Tractor is now permanently stuck in 1st gear of the hydrashift range.

It never slipped but did used to hesitate quite a while going from 1st to 2nd of the hydrashift. Now it won't change up at all.

I changed the transmission oil and filters just last summer but the previous owner had been running without the cartridge filter that sits in the RHS near the assister ram, so I changed that filter again after 50 hours as a precaution. I am going to change it again. I can't remember where the hydrashift filter is? Underneath?

The lift arms also become very hesitant to move up and down when the oil is hot but move OK when the oil is cold. Don't know if this is part of same problem or something different.

Any ideas of the nature of the fault would be welcomed before I strip it down. Could it just be the hydrashift control linkage come off but can't see it as under the cab???

What's the tractor worth as it stands? It's mechanically sound and pulls well other than this fault? Cab a bit tatty inside. Is on a full set of big terra tyres but no original rims or tyres.

 

[Selectamatic]

I dont know very much about these, but here is what I think...

The previous owner is a plank. No wonder that DB's get a bad name when dick's such as him leave a filter out!!

Hydra shift does not have a filter, as such, but a gauze tube, mounted on the large bolt screwed in underneath, on the pear shaped plate, near the front end of the drawbar, have a lie underneath and look up. When you take this out, all the oil comes out too...

Lift arms slow to lift is probably another fault, HS has its own oil pump, separate and very different to the hydraulics.

Have a dig in the cab, under the mat, on the RHS there is plate that lets you see through to the top of the gearbox, where the HS cable is mounted. Worth checking for what it costs.

Simple answer, remove the HS box and give to Anthony Marsh or Barclay Williams to overhaul.

Removing the box is a big job, cab off, reductions off, rear axle off.

The tragedy is, the work and effort and cost of the overhaul possibly outweighs the worth of the tractor, unless your a fan or really do want to keep the tractor specifically, it's not often worth it. Shame, they are a good tractor, regardless of what some might say.

Give Stuart at Barclay Williams a ring, he is very helpful and will go through it with you.

Alternatively, send me some pictures of the patient, I might be interested in a project...

Hope this helps.

 

[Thick Farmer]

Swan Vestas.

 

[DrWazzock]

I must have cleaned that gauze tube when I drained the oil last year. Can't imagine it's blocked suddenly to cause this sudden fault so sounds like a fault in the HS unit. I'll look for the plate in the cab floor and try to see the end of the selector cable.

I bought it because it was on terras and is fantastic for power harrowing, rolling, grass seeding etc. A couple of years back I refurbed the final drives and these are good. I also rewired most of it.

It also pulls our old bredal limespreader and will still be ok for this job as it runs in gear 3, HS 1.

Power harrowing is the problem as 2-1 is too slow but 3-1 is too fast.

Thanks for pointers.

 

[John 1594]

If you get stuck taking the box out let me know....il soon come over and operate on the poor old girl, being a 2wd it will be a walk in the park compared to when i had to take the 15 apart!!!

 

[John 1594]

If you do decide to have a go...

Wheels off first, disconnect all the cab linkages, pipes and cables, tandem pump is a fiddly one, not forgetting hydrashift cable under plate near brake pedals. 4 bolts out, lift cab (we threaded straps through the tops of the side windows and left doors open, then just lift with forklift)

Fuel tanks off, gearbox lid off,disconnect puh from pto and lower it down, leaving it suspended on its front bracket. Sensing unit and pto case off. Then take reductions out, dont worry about tying diff lock down as this needs to come out anyway

Disconnect hyd pipes under rear axle joint, then unbolt rear axle and pull that away from the gearbox trough, making sure the diff lock collar disnegages from its fork. 2 bolts holding the gearbox in the trough and it lifts out the back as a unit

Its a days work if your in a hurry and have tea making facilities on site

 

[FonterraFarmer]

Swan Vestas.

I knew you were going to say that!

 

[IH 684]

Get john to fix it at least it will be right, last thing you want is getting the cab back on to find it has to come off again. Once it's fixed it should last for years. If you sell it and buy something else whatever you buy will have issues.

 

[John 1594]

Get john to fix it at least it will be right, last thing you want is getting the cab back on to find it has to come off again. Once it's fixed it should last for years. If you sell it and buy something else whatever you buy will have issues.

Can run the hydrashift up with the back wheels on before re-fitting the cab, rig up a fuel supply and blank the heater hoses off, work hydrashift valve with a spanner...easy way to check its all ok

 

[Flat 10]

Pay John a days labour to come and help you. Will be well worth it I would have thought.....

 

[DrWazzock]

Yes @John 1594 it would probably be a good idea if you did come over in the winter when things have quietened down and it can be set out in the workshop without disturbance. I'll contact you later in the year if you are available. Save me blundering about.

Will manage with the Lambo for the time being and the Case where I don't need the hydrashift change up. Fine in 3-1 for rolling, lime spreading, fert spreading etc.

Last year put new cylinders in the Lambo. Year before rebuilt the Case final drives. Never a dull moment here.

 

[Selectamatic]

I think I'm right in saying that you are ok to use the thing as it is, but don't try to change gear on the hydra shift, its direct in 1st, any of the others will cause more damage.

 

[james harrow]

sounds like a bit of dirt in relief valve , that happen to our 1490 , just took can off removed cab and gearbox lid cleaned valve and she was good as new

 

[Joetas]

Hi new to the forum my case 1594 won't drive very well in any of the ranges or hydrashift positions it whines when slows to a stop

 

[Thomas5060]

Hi new to the forum my case 1594 won't drive very well in any of the ranges or hydrashift positions it whines when slows to a stop

@Selectamatic

 

[Selectamatic]

Hi new to the forum my case 1594 won't drive very well in any of the ranges or hydrashift positions it whines when slows to a stop

If it wont drive in any range or hydrashift gear, I would suspect something like the clutch?

I'm no expert on broken HS boxes, but Barclay Williams knows them inside out...

http://www.barcleywilliams.co.uk

 

[Ray996]

If it wont drive in any range or hydrashift gear, I would suspect something like the clutch?

I'm no expert on broken HS boxes, but Barclay Williams knows them inside out...

http://www.barcleywilliams.co.uk

Clutch or no oil pressure ,my last 1490 had broken brake band and ended up breaking tractor due to repair was more than worth

 

[Selectamatic]

Clutch or no oil pressure ,my last 1490 had broken brake band and ended up breaking tractor due to repair was more than worth

Aye, that's true.

It's a shame that @John 1594 has buggered off, he was knowledgeable on the HS box.

 

[Ray996]

Aye, that's true.

It's a shame that @John 1594 has buggered off, he was knowledgeable on the HS box.

Time he came back to help us brown men ,clever chap he was!

 

[REStracTORATION]

Clutch or no oil pressure ,my last 1490 had broken brake band and ended up breaking tractor due to repair was more than worth

Have you changed/cleaned all 3 filters and put new oil in
That helps no end on these boxes i find
If you think oil an filters are a waste of money, neednt go any further