Case IH 895 Torque Amplifier

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
Good morning all, nice bit of rain here at last !!. Here's a question for the case IH guys, torque amplifier failed and needs repairing. I have studied the service manual which explains the procedure in great detail. Will I be able to drive out the bottom PTO driven shaft out with the gearbox and cab still in situ ? Or is it a cab and transmission off job ? Will the The T/A slide out without the PTO driven gear being removed ?
Any advice greatly appreciated
 

NasherXL

Member
Did the job on an ih 885xl and the cab stayed in place-everything comes out the front of the gearbox once the tractor is split and the pto pack etc came out the r/h side once the side-drive gearbox and fuel tank was out the way.
 

NasherXL

Member
The right hand side tank sitting in the cab,assuming later models it's the same method of repair other than the method to change from high to low, it was a cable on my old tractor but you will have an electric solenoid I assume
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
The right hand side tank sitting in the cab,assuming later models it's the same method of repair other than the method to change from high to low, it was a cable on my old tractor but you will have an electric solenoid I assume
Yes mine has the electric solenoid, my concern is removing the pto driven gear shaft ie knocking it out towards the back end in order to remove the two gears to allow the T/A pack to be removed. Once this shaft is driven back will I be able to push it back from the PTO clutch inspection plate area ?
Your help is greatly appreciated
 

Richard Devon

Member
Mixed Farmer
yes, undo the bolts at the back where the 1000rpm shaft is and it will fall out after but you have to take the MFD box off, spy up in the box turn the PTO pack until you see the spiral pin that goes through holding the pack to the shaft. Drive that pin out and keep in mind that you have to line the groove in the shaft up before you drive it back in on reassembly.
Work the shaft out and catch the PTO pack as it drops.
With that out the way, when you split the tractor take the 3 bolts off the bottom cover in the trans housing, slip the snap ring off the end of the shaft and push the shaft back, the gear will then drop out the bottom where the base plate is. Then the Powershift pack will fall out the front
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
Thanks Richard, I take it on ready assembly of the lower shaft in the bell housing I'll be able to push it forward from the mfwd/ PTO clutch area ? Diagrams I've seen, it seems to be a fair length mind you it shows the gearbox split away from the rest and the guy has clean hands and overalls
 

Gapples

Member
Thanks Richard, I take it on ready assembly of the lower shaft in the bell housing I'll be able to push it forward from the mfwd/ PTO clutch area ? Diagrams I've seen, it seems to be a fair length mind you it shows the gearbox split away from the rest and the guy has clean hands and overalls

You need 2 people to get that bottom shaft back in, one holding a long shaft, or even a broom handle will do up through the lower PTO hole in the back, push hard on the handle as the person at the front drives on the bearing, it pays to use Emery tape on the shaft so the bearing goes on easier.
Real bitch of a job is getting the PTO clutch back in & keeping everything in line.
Also when you are putting the TA clutch back in be extremely careful when getting the 3 plates on the high side back in. The first always go on easy, the third not so, DO NOT just force it in with the 3 bolts.
If you are struggling pop another message up
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
Thanks fo
You need 2 people to get that bottom shaft back in, one holding a long shaft, or even a broom handle will do up through the lower PTO hole in the back, push hard on the handle as the person at the front drives on the bearing, it pays to use Emery tape on the shaft so the bearing goes on easier.
Real bitch of a job is getting the PTO clutch back in & keeping everything in line.
Also when you are putting the TA clutch back in be extremely careful when getting the 3 plates on the high side back in. The first always go on easy, the third not so, DO NOT just force it in with the 3 bolts.
If you are struggling pop another message up
Thanks for the info, hoping to get stuck in on Sunday , let you know how I get on. Just hoping there's no nasty surprises in the T/A pack . Best option would be a complete overhaul kit from the fine guys at intertrac ?
 

Richard Devon

Member
Mixed Farmer
Guy next door just had his done by three different "man in a van" and it's still not right
like all things essentially it is "only nuts and bolts" however there are certain peculiarities which really only come from experience...like making sure the sprag clutch is in the right way around, like not damaging the hook rings, like packing the high-side plates with matchsticks so the plates line up easily and staking the ends of the pack bolts to stop the nuts undoing .......just the little things that make the difference
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
like all things essentially it is "only nuts and bolts" however there are certain peculiarities which really only come from experience...like making sure the sprag clutch is in the right way around, like not damaging the hook rings, like packing the high-side plates with matchsticks so the plates line up easily and staking the ends of the pack bolts to stop the nuts undoing .......just the little things that make the difference
 

markpentre

Member
Location
wrexham
ive asked a few people to look at mine and no ones interested. When i hear things like 3 people tried doing it and its not right puts a lot of doubt in my mind on who i can get to do the job propperly first time. Rather spend more first time and have it done right.
 

Lofty

Member
Location
Worcs
Good morning all, nice bit of rain here at last !!. Here's a question for the case IH guys, torque amplifier failed and needs repairing.
Think we should know what it does, or doesn't do before you start ripping it to bits. From my experience, there's several things that fail and create different symptoms.
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
We had a a TA repair done on an 884 20 years ago by pros but it leaked straight away and the company redid the job free but leaked again within a few hours on the hi side. I did wonder if there was some chronic wear on a shaft or something. My point being that for the OP are there any points that require a careful check before reassembly? (Richard and Gapples ;))
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
I have asked my trusty mechanic if he wanted the job and to be fair he is busy with other projects and I can't really blame him. Once I've had the pack out, I will post pics of the shaft clutch etc to get Richard and Gapples opinion. Hopefully not much damage has been done to the expensive parts ??! Quite looking forward to the challenge now, last mission of this scale was a MF50b torque converter rebuild .
 

Richard Devon

Member
Mixed Farmer
My point being that for the OP are there any points that require a careful check before reassembly? (Richard and Gapples ;))

I would say carefully pin-pointing the failure and the root cause is the most important part of this......is it deffo in the powershift unit not the control solenoid or a drop in the 320psi supply pressure caused by a leak elsewhere or the relief valve in the regulator valve needs adjusting, it maybe the clutch pack has burnt out, it may be one of the belleville springs on the "low" side have broken, the drive of the sprag clutch may have collapsed and chewed the shaft it drives against, the manifold hub where the shaft hook rings are supposed to seal may have grooves in it causing the seals to blow out. Lots of "ifs" "buts" and "maybes"
 

SionMason

Member
Location
Anglesey
To add my symptoms came out of the blue on Monday, started slipping in high on the road then came too until the next slightest hill, then after about 6 miles no high T/A ever since.
 

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