Chemical topping

If using a direct drill, throw down a short plank of timber for a couple of nights and see if you have a slug problem. Usually slug population low in spring and gets worse as dead material builds up over summer. Unclosed drill furrows are ideal slug highways. A tyre roller is very good to close over rows if soil is wet and doesn't crumble closed.
Hope you have the cover short once reseeded. You can feed off with sheep any residual pasture after reseeding. But get them off after say 4 days so they don't damage sprouting seed, but tread in seed.
All the best.
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
I've always thought a low dose of glypho will take out ryegrass and AMG, but leave the real problem grasses that you are trying to replace.:scratchhead: Am I wrong?
In a lot of cases.
One way to get around it is to give the area a moderate graze to reduce leaf area on the better, more palatable grass, but not so they are hooking into the rubbishy grasses you want rid of; minimises the chem uptake for the ryegrass but the less palatable grasses cop it. Easy to achieve in some systems but not so easy in others, we found it best to use many mouths for a short time and basically chase them out with the sprayer, don't leave it or you nail the regrowth (y)
 
I've always thought a low dose of glypho will take out ryegrass and AMG, but leave the real problem grasses that you are trying to replace.:scratchhead: Am I wrong?

Depends upon which species are the problem.
Most narrow leafed annual weed grasses (eg. Poa annua) are easily killed, whereas Yorkshire Fog and clumpy Cocksfoot can take some killing.
 

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