Claas dominator 88

JD6920s

Member
Location
Shropshire
Had a couple over time, good combines, obviously getting on now so condition dependant. Simple to operate and work on. Check the seals on the sides of the sieves that’s run against the inside of the body as they are prone to breaking up, and the straw walker block bearings on the crank, if too much wear the walkers bang and start to crack apart so look closely at those. Wobble box on knife drive too, look at auger in header and how it turns and that all retractable fingers are present and nothing rattling around inside, there should be a spare knife in the back of the header, you need to run it up and just see how smooth she is to get a proper feel of it. Look in the drum and concave, make sure everything adjusts as it should, check feeder house bars and all the elevators, oh should have air con too so try that.
 

JD6920s

Member
Location
Shropshire
Had a couple over time, good combines, obviously getting on now so condition dependant. Simple to operate and work on. Check the seals on the sides of the sieves that run against the inside of the body as they are prone to breaking up, and the straw walker block bearings on the crank, if too much wear the walkers bang and start to crack apart so look closely at those. Wobble box on knife drive too, look at auger in header and how it turns and that all retractable fingers are present and nothing rattling around inside, there should be a spare knife in the back of the header, you need to run it up and just see how smooth she is to get a proper feel of it. Look in the drum and concave, make sure everything adjusts as it should, check feeder house bars and all the elevators, oh should have air con too so try that.
 

alan6430

Member
Location
cornwall
Had a couple over time, good combines, obviously getting on now so condition dependant. Simple to operate and work on. Check the seals on the sides of the sieves that’s run against the inside of the body as they are prone to breaking up, and the straw walker block bearings on the crank, if too much wear the walkers bang and start to crack apart so look closely at those. Wobble box on knife drive too, look at auger in header and how it turns and that all retractable fingers are present and nothing rattling around inside, there should be a spare knife in the back of the header, you need to run it up and just see how smooth she is to get a proper feel of it. Look in the drum and concave, make sure everything adjusts as it should, check feeder house bars and all the elevators, oh should have air con too so try that.
Very helpful thank you
 

Gapples

Member
One coming up in a farm sale. Tell me good and bad point's
Yeah I worked on these claas combines for decades.
The 8 series were extremely reliable combines if looked after correctly.
JD6920s has mentioned most of bits to check, I'll just add the IS wooden blocks to the straw walker blocks.
While on about the IS shafts, have a good look at where the shaft bearings bolts onto the outer hull, they had a habit of cracking the tin work, there were strengthening plates that could be fitted & it did cure them.
These blocks do need renewing every now & again, they are oil impregnated, this oil drys out over time, the shafts they run on can then get too hot & I've seen plenty of them break !
Also check the bubble auger gearbox & unloading auger gearboxes.
When looking at the drum & concave just have a quick look at the drive flange, it's on the RHS as you sir on the seat, I've seen loads crack.
Make sure the rasp bars are not too bald ( worn ) as it won't thresh very well, especially in winter barley !
At this age check the rubber bushes on sieve box drive & prep pan drive, they should have been replaced by now, maybe a couple of times. Look for cracking in the rubber & for any "settling" in the rubber bush which would indicate they've gone soft or are simply knackered.
Claas double fingers on the cutterbar are very good & hard wearing but when they do eventually wear it wasn't unusual to have the knife snap just behind the knife head, just check both knives to see if they've been welded.
If there's lots of wear on the double fingers budget for a new set, it'll be well worth it.
On the variator pulleys take a tape measure with you, measure either side across where the belt fits, it should be within 3mm, anymore & you'll need the pulleys rebushed.
Other than that lot it's all obvious stuff & mostly simple enough to fix ..
 

spin cycle

Member
Location
north norfolk
The sale details say so. 15ft header. Year 1998. Doesn't say hours. Anybody give a range of its value?
£7-£10k?
TBH your location might work for/agin you.....it'll cost a lot to haul it out...on the other hand if someone local also wants a combine haulage costs might contribute?...do you get irish buyers?
 

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