Class Arion 640

Chris165

Member
Just bought a class Arion 640, first problem is the brakes have to be done straight away but we're currently working on that. Second problem is spool number 3 won't work, the cable seems to be broken up beside the lever but it is extremely awkward to remove, or is there some special way to get them out?
Also the buttons on the arm rest are worn and I'm not sure what they do.
 

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spiders

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Just bought a class Arion 640, first problem is the brakes have to be done straight away but we're currently working on that. Second problem is spool number 3 won't work, the cable seems to be broken up beside the lever but it is extremely awkward to remove, or is there some special way to get them out?
Also the buttons on the arm rest are worn and I'm not sure what they do.

Brakes ain't an expensive job if done before they "go"

Can't comment on spool cable but have similar prob on mine, just using other 2 for now.

Button wise I think The top button is auto gear change, u can change the revs that the gearbox auto shifts in the CIS dash. If you scroll all theyway (not sure which way) there's auto and computer decides by far the best setting.

the bottom 2 are engine pre set speeds change by the plus minus buttons to the right.
 

spiders

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Just bought a class Arion 640, first problem is the brakes have to be done straight away but we're currently working on that. Second problem is spool number 3 won't work, the cable seems to be broken up beside the lever but it is extremely awkward to remove, or is there some special way to get them out?
Also the buttons on the arm rest are worn and I'm not sure what they do.


Get onto Derv doc get it remapped, don't go stupid on power but get egr turned off. Best 600 you'll ever spend.
 

Chris165

Member
Get onto Derv doc get it remapped, don't go stupid on power but get egr turned off. Best 600 you'll ever spend.
Can't say what it's like for power atm just got it off the lorry and straight into the shed to pull the half axles out, should know my tomorrow even, but the gearbox does need to be recalibrated
 

Chris165

Member
That's easy done. Once u got new oil in and filters.

Had the brakes gone?
Yea they were gone completely on one side not to bad on the other but the 3 bushings were missing have to try get them tomorrow. I've found how to do the clutch calibration online but not the gears.

Doesn"t sound like it came from a dealers yard,how many hours?
No not a dealer, it has 6200 hours and it's 2008
 

spiders

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Yea they were gone completely on one side not to bad on the other but the 3 bushings were missing have to try get them tomorrow. I've found how to do the clutch calibration online but not the gears.

20

Which bushes??

Metal fillings on system will make it very jumpy gearbox etc.

The only calibration i know of is where you set revs at 1500etc. If you want to know full procedure I'll message u.

There is a setting for boc switch (clutch) but that should be ok.

You'll prob best best flushing with cheap oil for 1-2 hours then calibrating after refill if fillings are in system.
 

Chris165

Member
Which bushes??

Metal fillings on system will make it very jumpy gearbox etc.

The only calibration i know of is where you set revs at 1500etc. If you want to know full procedure I'll message u.

There is a setting for boc switch (clutch) but that should be ok.

You'll prob best best flushing with cheap oil for 1-2 hours then calibrating after refill if fillings are in system.
3 on the wear plate. If you could they would be great, I assume that setting is on the computer on the pillar?
 

Oh Deere

Member
Boc switch can be set up using a multimeter.
Sounds like there are a few fillings floating about the system.
You might have to callibrate the gearbox a few times over the next few days. If the gearbox is still jumpy then new solenoid valves may be needed.
PTO problems could also be related to metal particules in the PWM valves.
Is your tractor 40 or 50K
 

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