This is what I haveHow are ye driving these posts? would a conventional tractor mounted driver be extreme overkill on them?
This is what I haveHow are ye driving these posts? would a conventional tractor mounted driver be extreme overkill on them?
That's good looking work , would it be hard on hilly ground , this is where we find the petrol driver great.This is how I pushed them in, very quick, lad on loader checked levelness from his view and I checked from mine, slowly eased in with the loader, he said he could feel with the hydraulics if he had hit a stone so I would pull it out and move it along a few inches. Very quick method, yes it doesn't take long with the bumper but once you have used the loader you are reluctant to go back to the bumper, tried the post knocker but by the time you had messed on getting it into place it just wasn't worth it. View attachment 394652
View attachment 394656
This was when we had a go with the knocker but must of hit a stone but you couldn't tell until you pulled the knocker away again View attachment 394670
As effective as that method is, due to the number of deaths while doing it, HSE have outlawed it. I'm not sure I'd posting pics. You absolutely shouldn't use a chain clamped on the headstock for an easy depth gauge either.This is how I pushed them in, very quick, lad on loader checked levelness from his view and I checked from mine, slowly eased in with the loader, he said he could feel with the hydraulics if he had hit a stone so I would pull it out and move it along a few inches. Very quick method, yes it doesn't take long with the bumper but once you have used the loader you are reluctant to go back to the bumper, tried the post knocker but by the time you had messed on getting it into place it just wasn't worth it. View attachment 394652
View attachment 394656
This was when we had a go with the knocker but must of hit a stone but you couldn't tell until you pulled the knocker away again View attachment 394670
View attachment 394854 Been using the easy petrol driver on this, going in alright, but spiked all holes first to make sure of depth.
Plain wire fence so no problems on this job.Seems better to put netting op first and tension, then put posts between vertical wires
What is the 'approved' method for drilling the holes in rock, for the rock posts? What size are the holes?
TIA
Are you using the rock post which has a smaller bar or the standard post , if using the standard post you could cut a bit of the bottom save drilling down the full two feet.If that for the clippex standard, we use 24mm, just because thats the biggest cheap meter long SDS drill bits easily available
Are you using the rock post which has a smaller bar or the standard post , if using the standard post you could cut a bit of the bottom save drilling down the full two feet.
Them (wrought iron?) are Different though -they also had bitumen or something which seems to go right into them well when you weld them it stinks anyway ? we've pulled up lots on rented parkland maybe 70 or so yr old - different to thin modern galvanised steel.Putting up the clippex got us thinking, been pulling out old fence , some metal probably been there 60 years or more, odd wooden ones nearly as long, some replacement tanalised ones less than 5 and rotten. Then there is a tanalised fence put up over 30 years ago and still good.
I think we been had over the treated stakes, dread to think how much it has cost the industry
over the years just for some DUBIOUS environmental benifit
No they won't bend , they are Y shape which gives them their strength .How strong are the posts
Just thinking if a cow leans over to get at the grass on the other side which always seems greener, it looks like they would just bend?
any pictures of your strainers yetNo they won't bend , they are Y shape which gives them their strength .