Clipex tips

[IEM]

I'm using Clipex for the first time to fence 2 year leys in the arable rotation.
I'm no fencing expert but Getting the hang of it now I think. Once strainers are in doing it all by hand and can comfortably do 50m/hour stock netting at 6m post spacing.
I have picked up a few useful tips to make it easier/less expensive that I thought I'd share, hopefully others have some ideas to add.

I bought a standard post driver from McVP which is just a scaffold tube with a cap on it. Have cut 2" off it as I like the bottom wire sat almost on the ground to stop sheep pushing under. I have welded a heavier weight on the end too and tbh it would be better if the whole thing weighed 2kg more

For straining I'm just using a ratchet strap, mole grips and a clipex post with the end cut off which clips on the netting for pulling up with the ratchet. I'm using gripples to join 100m rolls so I can add a bit more tension afterwards.

I am using Eco posts and am amazed at how sturdy they are when in the ground. They seem fine for taking out curved up to about 15 degrees and using other Eco posts as struts they can be made into strainers for sharper corners up to about 45 degrees.

I bought one proper clipex strainer to try and I liked it a lot. For a temporary fence I think they are a bit OTT and expensive though and I am thinking of making something similar but without the anti lift plates and that only goes about 80cm in the ground.

Right that'll do for starters

 

[Iain289]

Could you squeeze the posts in with a tractor mounted post knocker or would it bend them if they hit a stone? We're gonna use clipex this year to try it.

 

[IEM]

We don't have stone here so not sure but I would think it would have to be fairly impenetrable to bend the post. They do the rock posts but think the idea is to drill a hole and cement them

 

[IEM]

We are making a basic fence unrolled/tensioner to go on the tractor using about £50 worth of steel and some bits from the scrap bin. Hope to be able to tension 100m at a time which will speed the job some. I reckon with one of those petrol post knockers one person could then do 100m per hour.
Has anyone made/found a cheaper alternative to the £1500 ones from McVP?

 

[Romney_Rob]

We are making a basic fence unrolled/tensioner to go on the tractor using about £50 worth of steel and some bits from the scrap bin. Hope to be able to tension 100m at a time which will speed the job some. I reckon with one of those petrol post knockers one person could then do 100m per hour.
Has anyone made/found a cheaper alternative to the £1500 ones from McVP?

Any further tips? We are about to start

Put strainers in, tension a top barb to line up the posts then drive the posts in? Finally string net out ?

Or do you strain the netting before putting out the posts?

 

[JD-Kid]

Any further tips? We are about to start

Put strainers in, tension a top barb to line up the posts then drive the posts in? Finally string net out ?

Or do you strain the netting before putting out the posts?

run a plain base with for sighting and clip it in the bottom hole with the netting makes bottom of netting stronger less stock try to push
barb as a sight wire may end in a few stichs dueing the day

 

[IEM]

Any further tips? We are about to start

Put strainers in, tension a top barb to line up the posts then drive the posts in? Finally string net out ?

Or do you strain the netting before putting out the posts?

Just about to start here for this years ley too. First thing I have done is cut anti lift plates off of stakes as they are tough to pull out otherwise and the fence is only semi permanent. I've also cut 10" off a strainer post as I think they are more than long enough so will give that a try.
The order I do it is Strainers, netting, posts, top wire. Had no long straight ribs last year but it may be easier the way you suggest on a straight run.
Think the problem with posts up then netting after may be the netting snagging on post clips as you go.

 

[joe soapy]

Any further tips? We are about to start

Put strainers in, tension a top barb to line up the posts then drive the posts in? Finally string net out ?

Or do you strain the netting before putting out the posts?

Put the posts in before the net to stop it getting caught in posts,

try the petrol thumper before buying, its a bit Marmite.
A hand thumper needs to be a U shape, a tube type needs lifting a lot as does the petrol thumper
keep a lenth of light pipe to slip over stake when driving post behind netting.
We use a post banger on the tractor and carry a genny and hammer drill for hard [shillit] bits.
Got a fair bit here now so hope it lasts.
Bit of precision needed when putting posts in to make a tidy job.
trail a rope behind banger to get spacing regular

 

[Bury the Trash]

i find either way the net snags a bit.

i like the 'freedom' of posts first (after straining posts )....( a line or bottom single wire pulled between strainers... which may or may not be used as part of the final fence afterwards,...or a plastic electric fence wire can be used as a line and reeled in after )

when pulling up /straining the net, it just needs someone to run up through and keep an eye on the net fer snags happening ,well a bit like you with wood stakes at times anyway...............

 

[Poorbuthappy]

Put up strainers and bends first then put length of soil pipe or similar over the benders to enable straining the netting without it catching in the clips, then rest of posts.

 

[Fearnodeere]

I only use clipex for barbed wire and have found the best way to strain it is to concrete in steel and use ratchet winders.It takes a bit longer but hopefully I'll never have to do it again.My land is on gravel and I use a bar to make a pilot hole first because if you hit a stone it is nearly impossible to get the post in straight.

 

[Bury the Trash]

i dont use ther strainers...too expensive..

As pbh says above use pipes ......to put over the posts before laying out wire.and pulling up .....tried 80mm wavin coil but the the ridges snag on the net a bit when you go to pull them off after tensioning the wire so smooth plastic drainage pipe cut to about a meter would be perfect .. covering every post would be worth imo to completly stop that most annoying problem of snagging.until you are ready to hook it on .

btw...wear a glove on yer right hand if you are holding the post with it ....when knocking in ....especially in cold weather or else you might get v.white finger .......

 

[phil the cat]

I only use clipex for barbed wire and have found the best way to strain it is to concrete in steel and use ratchet winders.It takes a bit longer but hopefully I'll never have to do it again.My land is on gravel and I use a bar to make a pilot hole first because if you hit a stone it is nearly impossible to get the post in straight.

Thinking of using clip ex for a job this winter. Did you get the ratchet winders from clip ex or elsewhere? Realise it’s an old thread but any further tips or photos? Thanks, phil TC

 

[Fearnodeere]

You can buy the winders from any supplier,I get mine from McVeighs when I pick up the posts.I knock the posts in by hand which is easy and quick and I put them in 3m apart.

 

[Fearnodeere]

 

[Grassman]

Anyone tried the steel versalock posts made by Hampton steel?
Fasten net on with some high tensile clips so not critical on depth like clipex.