Concreting drive

[gone up the hill]

I'm only going to be laying them in two loads at time quantities so will just put an expansion board in after every two loads

only two loads, you should be doing at least 7 a day!

 

[Northeastfarmer]

only two loads, you should be doing at least 7 a day!

Yea but I'm doing it with the old man using a roof beam with a handle on each end....not sat in my Range Rover watching someone lay it with a vibrating beam

 

[Northeastfarmer]

On a lane 40 meters is far too long!

If you cut it all you will do is let water in which will expand and thus when it freezes will force the concrete and crack it.

Yea but you're meant to seal it after...

 

[gone up the hill]

Yea but you're meant to seal it after...

That is making a lot of work just for the sake of it.

 

[gone up the hill]

Yea but I'm doing it with the old man using a roof beam with a handle on each end....not sat in my Range Rover watching someone lay it with a vibrating beam

Ha ha try an old Astra, they wanted to use a beam, did one load and I put a stop to it as I wasn't happy, made them do it the old fashioned way!!

 

[Doing it for the kids]

That is making a lot of work just for the sake of it.

I may be wrong but I thought the idea of cutting and sealing after was to help focus the tension in the area you want. By cutting it after a day or so, the built up tension can all be relieved in one hit in the right place.

By laying expansion joints when making it you don't get the same release options?

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Ok it's been a while but only just getting round to concreting this drive now as finances were needed else where....ordered the concrete for tomorrow...PAV2 but they want to know 10 or 20mm stone...I've said 20 purely as it's cheaper...will this be adequate ? @RWG Contracts ?

 

[RWG Contracts]

Ok it's been a while but only just getting round to concreting this drive now as finances were needed else where....ordered the concrete for tomorrow...PAV2 but they want to know 10 or 20mm stone...I've said 20 purely as it's cheaper...will this be adequate ? @RWG Contracts ?

Yeah 20mm definitely

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Yeah 20mm definitely

Great thanks!

 

[Forever Fendt]

Great thanks!

Are you cutting it across the width

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Are you cutting it across the width

Just laying it one load at a time this time, ill put some expansion board in after each one

 

[Forever Fendt]

Just laying it one load at a time this time, ill put some expansion board in after each one

you need dowel bars to tie the two together ,with debonding sleeves on one side to allow lateral movement

 

[Steevo]

you need dowel bars to tie the two together ,with debonding sleeves on one side to allow lateral movement

Dowel bars are a good idea! Pretty cheap to do too. Never heard of them before a year ago - seems many concreting/building guys haven't either (or just shy away from them).

What are debonding sleeves? Something to stop the concrete sticking to the bars, but still "hold" it in place?

 

[Northeastfarmer]

you need dowel bars to tie the two together ,with debonding sleeves on one side to allow lateral movement

What length bars would you recommend for the dowels?

 

[Steevo]

What length bars would you recommend for the dowels?

How long is your drill bit?

 

[Northeastfarmer]

How long is your drill bit?

Don't you just lay them in when the concretes wet?

 

[Steevo]

Don't you just lay them in when the concretes wet?

Ideally yes. Depends whether it's retrofit or a current pour.

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Ideally yes. Depends whether it's retrofit or a current pour.

Yes you're right I'm wrong, I'm joining onto an old pour so would have to on the first pour

 

[Turra farmer]

Air entrained to cope with salt and frost and lay to a fall , cut in joints

 

[Steevo]

Yes you're right I'm wrong, I'm joining onto an old pour so would have to on the first pour

There's no such thing as right and wrong.