Cover crop recommendations before winter beans

Simon Chiles

DD Moderator
Please could the collective minds reccomend me a cover crop to put in after spring barley for 2 months before direct drilling winter beans into. TIA
Make sure the mix has either clover or vetch in it, kick the biology into action before the beans. Drill beans at a lower seed rate. I've grown beans after a crop last year of vetch and planted them at 16 seeds per m2. They don't look as they needed to be any thicker.
 
Teff grass...dies in winter and can be a good blanket for weed suppression. You can bale or graze etc if you don't want it to go to seed.

Basically a copy of how they grow organic soyabean in USA with the cereal rye...rolling it then sowing...vids on youtube about this.

Ant...
 

martian

DD Moderator
Location
N Herts
Teff grass...dies in winter and can be a good blanket for weed suppression. You can bale or graze etc if you don't want it to go to seed.

Basically a copy of how they grow organic soyabean in USA with the cereal rye...rolling it then sowing...vids on youtube about this.

Ant...
Grazing rye might work like this, if you got it sowed early enough it could get mature enough to be killed by crimping at drilling time; a bit awkward if not. You could spray it off in the winter and still have a weed suppressing mulch around the beans.
 

clbarclay

Member
Location
Worcestershire
I planted part of a feild with black oats between WW and winter beans last autumn, with the primary intention of BG surpression, but it doesn't seem to have done much. Thre was quite a bit of BG in the oats when drilling the beans so it all got glyposate pre em and in the worst patches quite a bit more BG has grown since. The oats were planted later than ideal though last autumn and took a while to get going in dryer stubble.

I am considering a patch of yellow trefoil cover crop (drilled ASAP after harvest) with the intention of drilling the beans into it and keeping the trefoil as a companion crop. I have been no till drilling beans at the sort of seed rate we used to plough them in at, but unless we kill them with pre em:facepalm: the establishment has been consistently good and they end up very thick. I want to reduce the plant pop by lowering the rate (and upping the tgw a bit when seed cleaning), but also still maintain maximum ground cover for weed supression which the trefoil may provide.

So many variables :scratchhead: last year the beans were thick and had a poor flower to pod ratio and low yeild. This year the beans are about as thick, but far more flowers turned have into pods. Harvest will tell if all those pods actually match the yeild we have had from thinner bean crops.
 
Grazing rye might work like this, if you got it sowed early enough it could get mature enough to be killed by crimping at drilling time; a bit awkward if not. You could spray it off in the winter and still have a weed suppressing mulch around the beans.
Teff is very fast growing, a very fine leaf plant that tends to be like a lawn..so it makes a matt very quick...in my trial spot i have some nasty weeds, it didnt keep them all out but 95% couldnt get going with teff in summer..it swamped the lucerne, red clover and alsike clover...when sown a month later...impressive (but if growing in a mix for grazing etc need to be very careful of sowing rate).

It has died with my winter which is mild compared to UK, yours should smoke it...

I like it as you spread on top so not disturbing soil with drill and getting more weeds...

Ant...
 
I planted part of a feild with black oats between WW and winter beans last autumn, with the primary intention of BG surpression, but it doesn't seem to have done much. Thre was quite a bit of BG in the oats when drilling the beans so it all got glyposate pre em and in the worst patches quite a bit more BG has grown since. The oats were planted later than ideal though last autumn and took a while to get going in dryer stubble.

I am considering a patch of yellow trefoil cover crop (drilled ASAP after harvest) with the intention of drilling the beans into it and keeping the trefoil as a companion crop. I have been no till drilling beans at the sort of seed rate we used to plough them in at, but unless we kill them with pre em:facepalm: the establishment has been consistently good and they end up very thick. I want to reduce the plant pop by lowering the rate (and upping the tgw a bit when seed cleaning), but also still maintain maximum ground cover for weed supression which the trefoil may provide.

So many variables :scratchhead: last year the beans were thick and had a poor flower to pod ratio and low yeild. This year the beans are about as thick, but far more flowers turned have into pods. Harvest will tell if all those pods actually match the yeild we have had from thinner bean crops.

Was it pollination or moisture / heat stress that caused the low flower to pod ratio? Are getting bee hives in an option?

Ant...
 

York

Member
Location
D-Berlin
you need to have a good N scanvenger & a good woody plant before beans.
On field trip in Bavaria:
- minute mycoryza in cover cropt & maize
tiny nodulation in beans
wonder why in a high N input & high >24ppm PO5 system?
They have a 3 mi. € 10 year EU Project on Mycoryza interaction in various cover crop species.
Prediction is: no mycoryza will be found.
Phacelia was in autumn the poorest developed crop there. Wonder why.
York-Th.
p.s. I'm deeply hurt by the wasted money, our tax money & the 2 phd thesis written
 
you need to have a good N scanvenger & a good woody plant before beans.
On field trip in Bavaria:
- minute mycoryza in cover cropt & maize
tiny nodulation in beans
wonder why in a high N input & high >24ppm PO5 system?
They have a 3 mi. € 10 year EU Project on Mycoryza interaction in various cover crop species.
Prediction is: no mycoryza will be found.
Phacelia was in autumn the poorest developed crop there. Wonder why.
York-Th.
p.s. I'm deeply hurt by the wasted money, our tax money & the 2 phd thesis written
Sorry York if I'm not clear on what you mean, but you say he has to suck up as much excessive N and P as possible to make mykorrhiza and nodulating bacteria grow?
 

hunthenry

New Member
I am new to cover cropping and direct drilling and want to try a catch crop between winter barley and winter beans.

I have some spring oats left over from last year and was thinking of drilling these. I have a sprinter with grain and fert and either 1 or 5 inch openers. I was thinking of putting the oats through the fertiliser pipe (which is positioned higher up than the openers) and pulling the openers through quite deep to create a bit drainage and somewhere for the bean roots to grow into.

Any thoughts?
 

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