David Brown 885

I’ve never fitted them myself, but was told by a expert on them that the dual wheels cause reduction hub problems, as do running them with mega wide track setting...

Had a 780 with rear wheels set out wide to buckrake on the clamp for many 1000’s if tons in the 70’s.
Never had any rear wheel bearing problems.
Used it with 12.4 x 28 singles pulling a trailed 30cwt Vicon wagtail for years and quite frankly than combination would travel on waterlogged pasture where you would be wasting your time and money applying early “N”.
 
Did once have a problem with a 1494 hydra shift rear wheel bearings which had come off a grass drying operation on carting heavy trailers.
The company “mechanic” had seen fit to take the half-moon shims from the bottom of the wheel bearing and add it to the top one to make it appear that the wheels were running true ...
 
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New Puritan

Member
Location
East Sussex
Thank you everyone. Next daft question, how do they attach? Do I need to weld bits on to the wheels, or do I screw those loop things on instead of the normal bolts that hold the wheel rim to the wheel centre? Or does it depend which type of dual I find?
 

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Thank you everyone. Next daft question, how do they attach? Do I need to weld bits on to the wheels, or do I screw those loop things on instead of the normal bolts that hold the wheel rim to the wheel centre? Or does it depend which type of dual I find?
These if you find some Bettison wheels, and if you do get 5 legs not 3 which seemed to detach themselves quite easily. Hateful things though.

 

New Puritan

Member
Location
East Sussex
I've found a second hand set for sale that are the right size. They have 3 legs, and what looks like square ends on them which hook into the receiving brackets - does that sound correct? And therefore I need to weld 3 of those brackets on per wheel. The bolt on ones look simpler - what's the advantage of the weld on ones?

The plan - such as it is - is to try and do as much of the light cultivation with the 885 as will allow - so rolling, hoeing, tines, undersowing etc.
 
The 3 legged Bettinson design with the central hand screw are (arguably) easier or quicker to attach.
When you weld the lugs on they used to recommend just one length of good weld at the rim edge iirc.
Need to get the tyre and tube away from the heat obvs.

If you have a choice then I would go for the hook and ring OPICO type.

Oh, and no need for any significant tread on the tyres of the duals, it’s about spreading the weight not traction, and a slight reduction in overall diameter compared to the main wheels is probably an advantage .

8 to 9 psi should be ample for most jobs.
 
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Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
If anyone tells you that you can weld them with tyres in place, they are correct.
we had a set of lugs done just like that by the local engineer, 3 miles away.
didnt get home before the first tyre went down :mad:
if you are lucky they can be done by pushing tyre off rim, but be very careful of sparks. Turn the one you are welding to the bottom, then you will be alright.
just remember one thing, you are far more likely to up end a tractor with Duals on, take care
 

FarmerD89

Member
If anyone tells you that you can weld them with tyres in place, they are correct.
we had a set of lugs done just like that by the local engineer, 3 miles away.
didnt get home before the first tyre went down :mad:
if you are lucky they can be done by pushing tyre off rim, but be very careful of sparks. Turn the one you are welding to the bottom, then you will be alright.
just remember one thing, you are far more likely to up end a tractor with Duals on, take care

For gods sake don’t weld with a tyre remotely on the rim even if you break the beads. Unless you wish to be very dead.

 

Hawkes

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
devon
we have 3 leg bettinsons on a MF 135. they were cheap to buy, they are very easy to put on and off single handed and I welded the lugs on to the rims by just pushing tyres outside edge off the rim and putting a wet sack in behind to protect tube and tyre whilst welding. You will find them very useful, with a little light tractor you can float across the surface of a puddle!
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
we have 3 leg bettinsons on a MF 135. they were cheap to buy, they are very easy to put on and off single handed and I welded the lugs on to the rims by just pushing tyres outside edge off the rim and putting a wet sack in behind to protect tube and tyre whilst welding. You will find them very useful, with a little light tractor you can float across the surface of a puddle!
3 stars are a doddle to put on wind the tractor wheel with one lug to the bottom sitting on a low block.
Bring your dual up and place leg in the lug, push wheel towards the tractor and screw up,
Make sure you do them tight and always check they are tight before heading down the road!
Try and never put the outer wheel on the kerb or any other high ridge as the pressure may pull it off
 

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
3 stars are a doddle to put on wind the tractor wheel with one lug to the bottom sitting on a low block.
Bring your dual up and place leg in the lug, push wheel towards the tractor and screw up,
Make sure you do them tight and always check they are tight before heading down the road!
Try and never put the outer wheel on the kerb or any other high ridge as the pressure may pull it off
And after a short while check the tightness again
 

New Puritan

Member
Location
East Sussex
Thank you to everyone who has helped me with information about these tractors so far. I have a few more questions now I'm starting to use the tractor a bit more, and will as ever be very grateful for any advice that may be offered.

1. There is an oil leak on the three way valve where the pipe to the spool valve comes out. Can anyone tell me where I can get a gasket or washer etc. for this? If there is one? I've not taken it apart yet to see what's inside. It only leaks when that position is selected, but it's quite bad when it is.

2. There is another oil leak from the dump valve. Is this a common fault - I've found a few gasket sets for sale for this in different places. Is it easy to do?

3. I'm still after some row crops for the back if anyone has some in their shed somewhere they'd like to sell me?

4. Does the 885 have the same front axle as any older models of DB? The reason I ask is I have been trying to fit a Webb front mounted hoe on the front, and there are quite a few different settings depending on the model of tractor it's going onto. I bought an old manual for Webb hoes on eBay, but it's for an even older hoe than mine and only gives the positions for 1960s tractors. If anyone has any general knowledge about putting these things on then I'll be very grateful to hear it.

Many, many thanks in advance for any useful info anyone wants to impart...

NP.
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
The three way valve issue should be just an O ring but it may be crack in the oilpipe coming out, without a picture I cannot remember. Is is a steel pipe or flex? Can always be replaced by flex Hose.
I have a 3 way valve in my garage if it is any use to you.
on the hoe, have you considered getting a lifting frame which fits on the front of the chassis? Simple to fit and use.
may be worth speaking to Les Carter, I know up in Lincolnshire a long haul but he has everything.
The dump valve is from memory ( aeons ?) a simple O ring inside the the casting . Remove the valve do NOT lose the little ball! fiddle the o ring out with a little screwdriver and put new in. It is a common issue. Their may be another o ring in the little piece you take off.
just follow one mantra, do not lose the little ball!
 

New Puritan

Member
Location
East Sussex
The three way valve issue should be just an O ring but it may be crack in the oilpipe coming out, without a picture I cannot remember. Is is a steel pipe or flex? Can always be replaced by flex Hose.
I have a 3 way valve in my garage if it is any use to you.
on the hoe, have you considered getting a lifting frame which fits on the front of the chassis? Simple to fit and use.
may be worth speaking to Les Carter, I know up in Lincolnshire a long haul but he has everything.
The dump valve is from memory ( aeons ?) a simple O ring inside the the casting . Remove the valve do NOT lose the little ball! fiddle the o ring out with a little screwdriver and put new in. It is a common issue. Their may be another o ring in the little piece you take off.
just follow one mantra, do not lose the little ball!

Thanks @Exfarmer - all useful to know. The pipe is metal - it's the lower one in this photo (i.e. the red one):

IMG_20200628_141737.jpg


I have given it all a bit of a clean since I took the picture!
 

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