DD on livestock farm

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
Sounds to me like a lack of om and biological aggregation causing a capping effect that seals out oxygen ?

My soils used to do that and i kept trying to fix it with a cultivator which did sort it temporarily but never permanently
In a livestock context where they are the priority and are at pretty high stocking densities i don't think it would matter how much om you have they will still make some mess.
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
Lifted the box back on today when there was a few volunteers about. Not quite the right shade of dark blue but ok.
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neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
That would be the worry, think i might try it and see, i do heavy first cut so that will slow grass down, drill in field as soon as forager is out ! fert on later if it grows !
Another option (if you're brave enough) would be to 'chemically top' the grass with a very low dose of glyphosate. IIRC @Global ovine used to practice it, with 200ml/ha of glyphosate? The idea would be to knock the grass back for a while, but then it would recover after the seedlings had taken hold.

Tell us how you get on if you try it, I've not been brave enough yet.:unsure:
 

Hilly

Member
Another option (if you're brave enough) would be to 'chemically top' the grass with a very low dose of glyphosate. IIRC @Global ovine used to practice it, with 200ml/ha of glyphosate? The idea would be to knock the grass back for a while, but then it would recover after the seedlings had taken hold.

Tell us how you get on if you try it, I've not been brave enough yet.:unsure:
Good idea that ! i spray bracken with glypho full strength and the grass comesback no problem, but thats tough hill grass not namby pamby bought it grass lol
 
Another option (if you're brave enough) would be to 'chemically top' the grass with a very low dose of glyphosate. IIRC @Global ovine used to practice it, with 200ml/ha of glyphosate? The idea would be to knock the grass back for a while, but then it would recover after the seedlings had taken hold.

Tell us how you get on if you try it, I've not been brave enough yet.:unsure:


I suggest 300mls /ha of generic glyphosate or down to 200mls/ha if using one of the newer brews including other salts for faster knock down and penetration. Do not use this technique if there is a weed problem of any significance.
Good for getting a clover burst to finish lambs and a N boost in the autumn from the clover for the establishing grass that was DD.
 

JD-Kid

Member
I suggest 300mls /ha of generic glyphosate or down to 200mls/ha if using one of the newer brews including other salts for faster knock down and penetration. Do not use this technique if there is a weed problem of any significance.
Good for getting a clover burst to finish lambs and a N boost in the autumn from the clover for the establishing grass that was DD.
there was a case of spray topping when every thing was right clean grass cool just after a rain etc and took out every thing seen trials in OZ every thing right total kill at 200 ml's same paddock hot dry dusty etc took 2-3 lt's to even come close to the same kill
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
The drill is finished. First a before photo.
old moore.jpg


So basically we cut it down from 4m to just over 3m. We took one press arm assembly off each end and shortened the seed box. Painted is as most corners had been welded, few lights and reflectors to finish it off. Hopefully it will be a good starter drill for us and roll on the Spring.

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Hilly

Member
The drill is finished. First a before photo.
View attachment 439594

So basically we cut it down from 4m to just over 3m. We took one press arm assembly off each end and shortened the seed box. Painted is as most corners had been welded, few lights and reflectors to finish it off. Hopefully it will be a good starter drill for us and roll on the Spring.

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Realy tidy job, but why ? whats wrong with 4 m ?
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
Realy tidy job, but why ? whats wrong with 4 m ?
Single track roads, we do bit of contracting and wheread our gates are all over 4m none of our customers farms have 4m plus gates everywhere.
Also i may run with my 3m front press along with it sometimes where stock have been over winter to level a little.
 
@SilliamWhale
When you're using slug pellets what's best practice? with seed? spread on surface? At sowing or later when a problem arises?

Have tried various ways but to be honest for brassicas I think mixing with seed is best even though my least favourited way of applying.

ps. if your feeling brave try some DD fodder beet - I did some last year and it got ravaged by slugs but what did germinate grew massive! Just do an acre or two trial for fun
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
Have tried various ways but to be honest for brassicas I think mixing with seed is best even though my least favourited way of applying.

ps. if your feeling brave try some DD fodder beet - I did some last year and it got ravaged by slugs but what did germinate grew massive! Just do an acre or two trial for fun
John Scott from fearn farm has done a trial on fodder crops including beet, he's right north in Scotland so I'm waiting his results which should be soon.
A mix with fodder beet in it would work well if it grew!
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
I spread pellets on the surface, for fear of encouraging the slugs down to the seed. Earlier the better IMO, preferably before they start taking seedlings out. If you delay, you can end up going in many times, trying to get on top of them again (as I did this Autumn:oops:)
 

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