Deutz fahr 6165 no ignition

Wisconsonian

Member
Trade
It helps to have a helper to turn the key while another person checks the voltage. Check at the starter solenoid, if the little signal wire gets no voltage when the key is turned, then you check the tractor wiring. Go back to the battery, make sure your 12.6 holds and doesn't drop way off, then go to the ignition switch and see if the 12.6 holds when the key is turned to start. Divide the problem and narrow in on it.
 

Harvester

Member
It helps to have a helper to turn the key while another person checks the voltage. Check at the starter solenoid, if the little signal wire gets no voltage when the key is turned, then you check the tractor wiring. Go back to the battery, make sure your 12.6 holds and doesn't drop way off, then go to the ignition switch and see if the 12.6 holds when the key is turned to start. Divide the problem and narrow in on it.
The problem is that I havnt got any ignition lights or anyrhing
 

Wisconsonian

Member
Trade
The problem is that I havnt got any ignition lights or anyrhing
You can hope somebody comes along that knows just what is most likely to fail on this, or you can track it down with a volt meter. Your choice. This is much newer than I was expecting, so I'm no help with suggesting where to look. You could start at the battery, then move one test lead at a time. 12V at battery posts with the key turned to start? then move to bat positive post to the engine block, still 12V? then the engine block to the starter solenoid, still 12V? Then follow the bigger wires from the pos on the solenoid like Mur Huwcun said, 12V there?

Most valuable will be the first couple tests, if you don't find a loss of voltage in those, then you'll get into a complicated wiring harness that won't be so easy. Anything unusual happen recently to the tractor? Checked all the fuses?
 

manhill

Member
Not familiar with Deutz but it sounds like an intermediate relay in the fuse box operates the solenoid on the starter.
First thing I'd do is put 12v on the solenoid (gear in neutral of course). 2 minute call to the dealer's mechanic to confirm this is ok might be helpful.
 

manhill

Member
Bet a lot of posts about starting problems will be coming as the weather gets colder now. The battery loses capacity, the oils get thicker, terminals that need cleaning that just managed to pass enough current in summer will show up.
Alternators and starters that rely on fixing bolts for earths can cause problems.
Reminds me, better tighten those starter motor nuts that have been working loose!
 

manhill

Member
Bet a lot of posts about starting problems will be coming as the weather gets colder now. The battery loses capacity, the oils get thicker, terminals that need cleaning that just managed to pass enough current in summer will show up.
Alternators and starters that rely on fixing bolts for earths can cause problems.
Reminds me, better tighten those starter motor nuts that have been working loose!
forgot to mention the problems poor jumper lead clamps can cause, waggle, waggle, wagle, been there!
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Thank you the 200 amp fuse seems OK well 12.6v either side of it.. I will look for fuses in engine bay
You’re looking for a 40 or 60 amp one at a guess that’s the main feed protection from battery to fuse box. 99% sure that the feed will be from battery terminal so follow the second biggest cable from positive terminal to a box or lump etc
 

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