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Livestock & Forage
Direct drilling swedes
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<blockquote data-quote="neilo" data-source="post: 8127538" data-attributes="member: 348"><p>There’s only really glyphosate to spray off the existing grass. </p><p>Assuming it’s well established grass, the decaying thatch will make the zone around the seedlings acidic. You can counter that by drilling as soon as the spray has dried on (so the swedes germinate before the thatch starts breaking down), by applying lime 5 days after spraying, or by leaving a month or so to die off properly.</p><p></p><p>I’m not sure there’s a massive difference between varieties, and little proper trial work done to compare them. I have grown Triumph a couple of times, which is claimed to be much higher yielding, but can’t say that I saw any difference. I wouldn’t pay a premium for it anyway.</p><p></p><p>As above, flea beetle are buggers and can do a lot of damage quickly. Lack of summer rain is the biggest problem with swedes here though.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="neilo, post: 8127538, member: 348"] There’s only really glyphosate to spray off the existing grass. Assuming it’s well established grass, the decaying thatch will make the zone around the seedlings acidic. You can counter that by drilling as soon as the spray has dried on (so the swedes germinate before the thatch starts breaking down), by applying lime 5 days after spraying, or by leaving a month or so to die off properly. I’m not sure there’s a massive difference between varieties, and little proper trial work done to compare them. I have grown Triumph a couple of times, which is claimed to be much higher yielding, but can’t say that I saw any difference. I wouldn’t pay a premium for it anyway. As above, flea beetle are buggers and can do a lot of damage quickly. Lack of summer rain is the biggest problem with swedes here though. [/QUOTE]
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Direct drilling swedes
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