Dodgy committees.

Ray996

Member
Location
North Scotland
Hi guys new to forum.few years ago i ploughed at local match up here in highlands with trusty db 996 and kV 12 inch plough .after loading up went for results and did not get a mention so retired to local ale house.wee wile later a received a call to prize giving dance to get my award.when Igor there association seceratary told me I had won the 14 inch class ? Told said gent I had 12 inch plough,upon which he said take the award and say nowt because it had been sorted! Later that evening two judges came over and couldn't understand how managed to get first in 14 inch class when they had awarded me 5th in 12inch class!
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Hi guys new to forum.few years ago i ploughed at local match up here in highlands with trusty db 996 and kV 12 inch plough .after loading up went for results and did not get a mention so retired to local ale house.wee wile later a received a call to prize giving dance to get my award.when Igor there association seceratary told me I had won the 14 inch class ? Told said gent I had 12 inch plough,upon which he said take the award and say nowt because it had been sorted! Later that evening two judges came over and couldn't understand how managed to get first in 14 inch class when they had awarded me 5th in 12inch class!
The highlands of Norfolk are a bit like that:rolleyes:
 

ClydeFarm Girl

New Member
I am the second owner of a B275, serial number 21735 and first registered on 12/5/1960. I purchased it from a Mr Brian Bowles, a farmer from Wrangle, Lincs. It has a CAV rotary pump. A test tractor used in an NIAE test with serial number 17668 also had a rotary pump and was an even earlier 1960 tractor. Serial numbers for 1960 are 12161 to 29467. There may have been a transition period when odd in line pumps were fitted but I am pretty sure that they changed pumps in late 1959
How can I look up the serial number to find the year on my B275 in the States?
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
How can I look up the serial number to find the year on my B275 in the States?
The serial number is on a plate just in front of the brake pedals. I don`t think it appears anywhere else. If you find the number I will research the age for you. Is your tractor Diesel, petrol, or industrial ?
 
Last edited:

ClydeFarm Girl

New Member
The serial number is on a plate just in front of the brake pedals. I don`t think it appears anywhere else. If you find the number I will research the age for you. Is your tractor Diesel, petrol, or industrial ?
Hello! My tractor is diesel. Serial 21564 IH with 1057 hours. Would that be original hours? It sat caked in mud for the last 3 years when the former owner blew up a battery from reversing the ground. It blew a fuse so I put 2 new batteries, drained fuel lines and new fuse. It needed starter fluid and then chugged like a prince. Even the tires stayed up and had calcium in them! I spent $500 for it as is where is and now she is my little working red machine. I do need a seat and some lenses etc a grill to get back to decent.
Thank you very much!
Elizabeth
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Hello! My tractor is diesel. Serial 21564 IH with 1057 hours. Would that be original hours? It sat caked in mud for the last 3 years when the former owner blew up a battery from reversing the ground. It blew a fuse so I put 2 new batteries, drained fuel lines and new fuse. It needed starter fluid and then chugged like a prince. Even the tires stayed up and had calcium in them! I spent $500 for it as is where is and now she is my little working red machine. I do need a seat and some lenses etc a grill to get back to decent.
Thank you very much!
Elizabeth
Your tractor is 1960, around April but someone more qualified than me may place it more accurately. The hour clock is almost certainly a replacement by your description and I would have expected an original clock, which would be an extreme rarity, to show nearer 8,000. By starter fluid I guess you mean ether, the devil`s own creation. This will break up the piston rings if not already done. Pay attention to the heater plug circuit which simply consists of four plugs in series with an indicator coil (pepper pot) and a switch. A fault in any one of these six components will result in no plugs working and difficult starting even on a mild day. In good condition, with the heater circuit working, these tractors start like a dream and you won`t have to use the wrecking fluid. Parts are available in the UK from Repair and Maintenance 44 1384 350136/ 7836 539138.
Incidentally, on UK vintage tractors where charging is by dynamo rather than alternator the ground is invariably positive.
 

ClydeFarm Girl

New Member
Thank you for the information. There are slight variations in our languages that I am trying to follow. I do have a cord (electrical ) that comes out of the engine and I did not know if this is an oil heater for our Syracuse NY 25 below weather or whether it was for the water in the radiator. Sorry I am so dumb but the instruction book is missing several pages when the mice made a nest out of it behind the key starter behind the dash.

Thank you again. The engine is not smoking so how can I tell if the piston rings are bad?

Elizabeth - Nice to chat with knowledgeable people across the pond
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Thank you for the information. There are slight variations in our languages that I am trying to follow. I do have a cord (electrical ) that comes out of the engine and I did not know if this is an oil heater for our Syracuse NY 25 below weather or whether it was for the water in the radiator. Sorry I am so dumb but the instruction book is missing several pages when the mice made a nest out of it behind the key starter behind the dash.

Thank you again. The engine is not smoking so how can I tell if the piston rings are bad?

Elizabeth - Nice to chat with knowledgeable people across the pond
I have never seen engine heaters on UK models other than the combustion chamber heater plugs but it is quite possible on export models. Your local Case/IH dealer would be able to give this information. US built IH diesels of this period started on petrol and switched to diesel when hot and so got round the cold starting problem. Sump (oil) heaters may also have been fitted to overcome drag from thick, cold oil but I doubt if heaters to the water jacket were fitted. I may be wrong. Is your electrical wire fitted with a plug for mains connection and where does it enter the engine?
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Thank you for the information. There are slight variations in our languages that I am trying to follow. I do have a cord (electrical ) that comes out of the engine and I did not know if this is an oil heater for our Syracuse NY 25 below weather or whether it was for the water in the radiator. Sorry I am so dumb but the instruction book is missing several pages when the mice made a nest out of it behind the key starter behind the dash.

Thank you again. The engine is not smoking so how can I tell if the piston rings are bad?

Elizabeth - Nice to chat with knowledgeable people across the pond
Engine heaters were not fitted to UK models to my knowledge other than combustion chamber heater plugs. Where does this mysterious wire enter the engine and is there any sign of a 110v electrical connection ? Your local Case/IH dealer should be able to help. Oil heaters are the most likely and would be fitted in the sump at the bottom of the engine
The best test for piston rings is a compression test on each cylinder. This is most important in diesels because the atomized fuel is ignited by extreme pressure created in the cylinders. Another check is to lift out the silencer (muffler) and shine a torch down to the manifold. Are there any signs of oil or very heavy soot deposits ?
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Are there any signs of oil or very heavy soot deposits ?

this could come from glazed bores, and not broken rings,
get it started and run for 10 mins, stop the engine, wait 15 mins, try to start it again with no gas tin or heater, if starts ok, then its the heater system that is wrong, if it won't start with a good battery, then low on compression,
if starts ok, yet is damp with oil around the exhaust / muffler, give it some hard work for a good few hours, this should dry it up,

@arcobob there was a b275 on eBay, been imported from Poland, a while back, it had water heater for cold climate,
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
this could come from glazed bores, and not broken rings,
get it started and run for 10 mins, stop the engine, wait 15 mins, try to start it again with no gas tin or heater, if starts ok, then its the heater system that is wrong, if it won't start with a good battery, then low on compression,
if starts ok, yet is damp with oil around the exhaust / muffler, give it some hard work for a good few hours, this should dry it up,

@arcobob there was a b275 on eBay, been imported from Poland, a while back, it had water heater for cold climate,
My 275 started and ran well but after a few days of light work (ploughing matches) it started blowing out oil. A good flogging uphill with a heavy trailer cured this temporarily but it returned. I removed the manifold and it was just on number 2 cylinder. I changed the injector just in case it was a dribbler but to no avail. I removed the head and checked valves and guides but in the end I took the pistons out. No broken or gummed up rings but the tiniest imperfection about two inches down on number two liner and a small amount of general bore wear. Not a score but obviously a manufacturing flaw. I replaced all pistons and liners and the problem is completely solved with even better starting.
Interesting about the water heater and would definitely help but my bet was on a sump heater.
My point about the ether was born out on a 65 which I bought a few years back. This started reluctantly and ran reasonably well with a bit of oil smoke. When the engine was stripped out there was not one compression ring with a fragment bigger than about an inch and these fragments were wedged in the piston grooves at all angles. Ether was the culprit. I would never use it unless it was to load a non starter on its final journey.
 

ClydeFarm Girl

New Member
I have never seen engine heaters on UK models other than the combustion chamber heater plugs but it is quite possible on export models. Your local Case/IH dealer would be able to give this information. US built IH diesels of this period started on petrol and switched to diesel when hot and so got round the cold starting problem. Sump (oil) heaters may also have been fitted to overcome drag from thick, cold oil but I doubt if heaters to the water jacket were fitted. I may be wrong. Is your electrical wire fitted with a plug for mains connection and where does it enter the engine?
It comes out of the front right side and has a regular 3 prong outlet for electrical in the US like for house current and the other end has a 4 pin insert able female head plug. I will take a photo and up load. Thank you all for the information. She is running very well and restarted right up without an starter fluid. No smoke or oil smells.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
It comes out of the front right side and has a regular 3 prong outlet for electrical in the US like for house current and the other end has a 4 pin insert able female head plug. I will take a photo and up load. Thank you all for the information. She is running very well and restarted right up without an starter fluid. No smoke or oil smells.
can we see some pictures
 

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