Does DD have to be low disturbance?

[Drillman]

I been thinking (which in itself is quite a scary thing) if I bought something like a Horsch CO drill would it need the legs altering to do DD or would it work quite happily on the standard (duett I think) coulters?

All straw including OSR straw is baled

opinions please

 

[cb387]

Probably depends on soil type and condition but I wouldn’t have thought it would be very successful with duett coulters unless the soil is loosened first. CO springs aren’t as good as the stronger ones on sprinters. Would need serious hp on the front too.

Put some narrow points on it such as Metcalfe or Borgault and will be fine. Not many COs about for sale at the moment though

 

[solo]

I used a CO to direct drill osr with duets but found it lacking penetration in dry Sandy loam soils. Narrower coulters would work fine on a CO but then you have wider gaps between rows which would fill with weeds here.I‘ve swapped to a sprinter with 5”Dutch which is better but will carve boulder clay areas like plasticine if wet and press a slab on top of the seed. A narrower coulter would be better for direct drilling otherwise I need to drill in drier conditions. ie. earlier.

 

[Banana Bar]

I used a CO to direct drill osr with duets but found it lacking penetration in dry Sandy loam soils. Narrower coulters would work fine on a CO but then you have wider gaps between rows which would fill with weeds here.I‘ve swapped to a sprinter with 5”Dutch which is better but will carve boulder clay areas like plasticine if wet and press a slab on top of the seed. A narrower coulter would be better for direct drilling otherwise I need to drill in drier conditions. ie. earlier.

Exactly this, we have a Sprinter on Dutch coulters. 5” is great in dry moved ground and will see rows establish similar to a Vaderstad if conditions are good. We also use 2” and 3” points. The muddier it is the narrower the point is how we work it. I have found this year with the 3” it is very easy to lose a lot of seed into the deeper point area and end up with seed much deeper than you think it is when looking behind the drill. The target depth is normally around 25mm but I have lots at 75mm which is taking an age to reach the surface.

 

[ollie989898]

No, it doesn't have to be low disturbance.

 

[Bury the Trash]

no, infact you could plough, powerharrow .......... then drill direct into that

 

[Bob lincs]

Is this classed as direct drilling? Machine is a cultivator piped to put seed on .

 

[alomy75]

Is this classed as direct drilling? Machine is a cultivator piped to put seed on . View attachment 992893View attachment 992894

I don’t think I’ve ever seen any of your tractors without a front tank on I think it’s only a matter of time until a claydon toolbar appears on the back….

 

[yellow belly]

D d does not have to be low disturbance

d d cover many one pass systems

 

[BourgaultVos]

I used a CO to direct drill osr with duets but found it lacking penetration in dry Sandy loam soils. Narrower coulters would work fine on a CO but then you have wider gaps between rows which would fill with weeds here.I‘ve swapped to a sprinter with 5”Dutch which is better but will carve boulder clay areas like plasticine if wet and press a slab on top of the seed. A narrower coulter would be better for direct drilling otherwise I need to drill in drier conditions. ie. earlier.

Hi, I work for Bourgault Tillage Tools. The 610-TIP-4030 (4" paired row with a small tillage tip) would not carve in wet conditions. the tillage tip is 19mm wide and sits between the rear facing outlets. If you would like to try a couple on your drill please contact me to discuss a trial.
My email address is [email protected]. We are at the forth coming events where you can also catch up with us - Midlands Machinery Show, Croptech show and LAMMA.
Regards Stuart

 

[BourgaultVos]

Hi, I work for Bourgault Tillage Tools. The 610-TIP-4030 (4" paired row with a small tillage tip) would not carve in wet conditions. the tillage tip is 19mm wide and sits between the rear facing outlets. If you would like to try a couple on your drill please contact me to discuss a trial.
My email address is [email protected]. We are at the forth coming events where you can also catch up with us - Midlands Machinery Show, Croptech show and LAMMA.
Regards Stuart

Our website is www.bttuk.com

 

[jack6480]

I think it does have to be low disturbance, else it’s just min till.

 

[Bury the Trash]

Exactly , and drilled in one pass with discs cutting the seed slot that's all the disturbance that should be

 

[jack6480]

Exactly , and drilled in one pass with discs cutting the seed slot that's all the disturbance that should be

I’ve seen some awful seedbeds from one pass legged machines, no wonder they have slug pelleters fitted as standard.

if I had one I’d be running a power Harrow over it after drilling.

 

[Two Tone]

I think that if you have a Blackgrass problem, you have either got to bury it properly with a plough, which will cause 70% of it to die during the next 12 months if you can keep it more that 2” below daylight.

OR zero-till (direct drill) it with an absolute minimum of disturbance, so as not to disturb the Blackgrass, which would encourage it to grow.

The compromise is to chose a row width that won’t disturb the Blackgrass in between the rows and allow the crop to be thick enough in the row so as to outcompete the BG within it.

To my mind this must be using a disc type Zero-till drill that doesn’t cause any soil bursting that a tine drill will cause and to also ensures adequate slot closure to ensure good germination.

Everything depends on timing it right to get the perfect conditions to drill it right and that usually means drilling 2 weeks earlier in the autumn.

But that is here on this farm and might be completely wrong on other farms.

 

[yellow belly]

I think that if you have a Blackgrass problem, you have either got to bury it properly with a plough, which will cause 70% of it to die during the next 12 months if you can keep it more that 2” below daylight.

OR zero-till (direct drill) it with an absolute minimum of disturbance, so as not to disturb the Blackgrass, which would encourage it to grow.

The compromise is to chose a row width that won’t disturb the Blackgrass in between the rows and allow the crop to be thick enough in the row so as to outcompete the BG within it.

To my mind this must be using a disc type Zero-till drill that doesn’t cause any soil bursting that a tine drill will cause and to also ensures adequate slot closure to ensure good germination.

Everything depends on timing it right to get the perfect conditions to drill it right and that usually means drilling 2 weeks earlier in the autumn.

But that is here on this farm and might be completely wrong on other farms.

Totally agree 100%
if it is hard and dry go slower to allow the press wheel to work
keep a eye on wear onthe coulter and press wheel alinement

 

[clbarclay]

"As little as possible and as much as necessary" is a mantra I first heard refering to how fast to drive off road, but it seems to apply to most things, including no till disturbance.

I would argue that even the best disc drill in ideal conditions is not absolutely zero disturbance, but of course that seems to be good enough.

 

[Kiwi Pete]

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