Dominator 108 drum speed adjuster piston leak

[Zippy768]

As above, anyone done the seals in the piston. Looks a pain to get at.

 

[Zebbedee]

I cannot remember 100% but where the hyd hose attaches to the rotating coupling that casting will be held with 3 bolts to the pulley assembly. Remove 3 bolts and the hyd assembly will pull out I think.

 

[Zippy768]

I cannot remember 100% but where the hyd hose attaches to the rotating coupling that casting will be held with 3 bolts to the pulley assembly. Remove 3 bolts and the hyd assembly will pull out I think.

Pic doesn't show it v well, but there looks to be f all room between bearing and the returns elevator for the piston unit to come out

 

[carbonfibre farmer]

@Gapples

 

[Zebbedee]

Been a long time but the rotating coupling will unscrew from casting first so the unit should come of ok with elevator still in situ

 

[Gapples]

You can lower the pulley set down to allow easier access.
The rotary valve just unscrews, now it's been 20 years since I done one but you can take off the outer plate that holds the pulley sets together, make sure the plate is marked, if it's been apart before & the mechanic knew what he was doing, the plate will be marked in some way. I always scribed an arrow pointing up ...
The piston assembly can then be accessed, but I'll pop around to my mates workshop today & see if I can get a few pics for you out a manual.
Pretty sure I still have a manual for them lying around.

 

[Zippy768]

You can lower the pulley set down to allow easier access.
The rotary valve just unscrews, now it's been 20 years since I done one but you can take off the outer plate that holds the pulley sets together, make sure the plate is marked, if it's been apart before & the mechanic knew what he was doing, the plate will be marked in some way. I always scribed an arrow pointing up ...
The piston assembly can then be accessed, but I'll pop around to my mates workshop today & see if I can get a few pics for you out a manual.
Pretty sure I still have a manual for them lying around.

I have an exploded diagram.

Looks very little room to the returns auger (red).
Cover (blue) and bearing all needs to come off.
Does it look familiar?

 

[Gapples]

 

[Gapples]

 

[Gapples]

 

[Gapples]

I have an exploded diagram.

Looks very little room to the returns auger (red).
Cover (blue) and bearing all needs to come off.
Does it look familiar?

Yes very familiar, mark that plate with an arrow pointing up or however you want to mark it.
I'm thinking you'll have to take off the returns auger, but that's not a bad job.
Turn it over until the chain joiner is at the bottom & disconnect it.
You then need the bottom bearing off the returns auger, remove a few bolts at the top & it pulls out complete.

I'm sorry, I've done lots of them but a very long time ago now ... My mind's playing tricks on me !

 

[Zippy768]

Yes very familiar, mark that plate with an arrow pointing up or however you want to mark it.
I'm thinking you'll have to take off the returns auger, but that's not a bad job.
Turn it over until the chain joiner is at the bottom & disconnect it.
You then need the bottom bearing off the returns auger, remove a few bolts at the top & it pulls out complete.

I'm sorry, I've done lots of them but a very long time ago now ... My mind's playing tricks on me !

Thanks for the pics .
Dismantled as much as we can and now taking auger off .
You say have to remove the bottom bearing but do we need to remove the top one as well? Cant see it will come away otherwise

 

[Gapples]

Thanks for the pics .
Dismantled as much as we can and now taking auger off .
You say have to remove the bottom bearing but do we need to remove the top one as well? Cant see it will come away otherwise

No, don't remove the top bearing, there something like 3 or 4 bolts hold it in place at the top, the tube then pulls out of the drum area so you have the returns housing complete with the tube at the top if you see what I mean ?
At the bottom you leave the auger in the trough & pull the housing off.

 

[Zippy768]

No, don't remove the top bearing, there something like 3 or 4 bolts hold it in place at the top, the tube then pulls out of the drum area so you have the returns housing complete with the tube at the top if you see what I mean ?
At the bottom you leave the auger in the trough & pull the housing off.

Thank you very much for the explanation , was about to heat the top bearing up to get her off

All apart now . Will change all seals in the piston. Diagram says 4 O rings but can only see 2.

Thanks for your assistance @Gapples

 

[Gapples]

Thank you very much for the explanation , was about to heat the top bearing up to get her off

All apart now . Will change all seals in the piston. Diagram says 4 O rings but can only see 2.

Thanks for your assistance @Gapples

Your welcome for any help I've been able to give.
There should be white plastic back up rings with each o ring though.

 

[Flat 10]

Another example of @Gapples helpfulness

 

[Flat 10]

Grappling with the equivalent problem on a Z series Deere @Zippy768 if that’s any consolation

 

[Zippy768]

Your welcome for any help I've been able to give.
There should be white plastic back up rings with each o ring though.

Hmmm, I thought those white ones were the lip seals.
The two 44s are marked at O rings and 43s backup O rings. I assumed these O rings are on the inside of the piston?
40 and 42 are down as lip seals. These are on the inside of the cylinder

 

[Zippy768]

Grappling with the equivalent problem on a Z series Deere @Zippy768 if that’s any consolation

It does make me feel better . Got the feeling it wasnt a common job.
Hope you could get to yours without have to take the returns auger off

 

[Gapples]

Hmmm, I thought those white ones were the lip seals.
The two 44s are marked at O rings and 43s backup O rings. I assumed these O rings are on the inside of the piston?
40 and 42 are down as lip seals. These are on the inside of the cylinder

The backup rings go with the o rings ...the lip seals as you say are for the outside of the piston