Dominator 98 Advice

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
The good doctor has sold his mattress to fund his combine. Posting pictures of a shiny combine on his thread is a bit below the belt.
I really don’t mind at all.🙂
I’m happy to have finally removed the grain pans from this machine to give them a clean up and a coat of paint. Such jobs give me pleasure. The purpose of the thread was to seek advice as to how to get the pans out. The answer was confirmed and I’m happy so I don’t mind which way the thread goes now.
I’m very happy with this combine as for one thing it’s not worn thin all over like my JD1085 and it has a lot of nice design features.
I’m not bothered at all how big, shiny or expensive or how much anybody else paid for their combine.
All that matters is that we are all satisfied with what we’ve got and that we all have as trouble free a harvest as possible. Best wishes.
 

Lowland1

Member
Mixed Farmer
I really don’t mind at all.🙂
I’m happy to have finally removed the grain pans from this machine to give them a clean up and a coat of paint. Such jobs give me pleasure. The purpose of the thread was to seek advice as to how to get the pans out. The answer was confirmed and I’m happy so I don’t mind which way the thread goes now.
I’m very happy with this combine as for one thing it’s not worn thin all over like my JD1085 and it has a lot of nice design features.
I’m not bothered at all how big, shiny or expensive or how much anybody else paid for their combine.
All that matters is that we are all satisfied with what we’ve got and that we all have as trouble free a harvest as possible. Best wishes.
Ok here it is. I have two children neither of whose arrival has made me as happy as this has.
F8E9AE3C-E564-40EE-84D6-765C4B6080E7.jpeg
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
EED200F1-1915-4BCC-A815-5010CECF0CFE.jpeg
Had to remove stone trap to successfully rivet new strip of rubber onto front edge of concave. Elevator still in place. Would have been easier with elevator off but not strictly necessary.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Looking at the concave it doesn't have wires but looks like a casting or forging. Is this a "multicrop" concave? Doesn't look big enough holes to let beans through easily but last crop previous owner combined was beans. What's the craic with this multi crop concave?
 

Cowcorn

Member
Mixed Farmer
Cheaper than a new Ford Transit. 24 years old. Anything much older in this part of the country is completely knackered, worn out or exported. This machine has done a fair number of hours though. It’s seem some work.
Doc by the time youre finished putting her right she will be as good as new....
Any of your old gear would be a great buy given the high standards of maintenance .:):)
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
The battery warning light won’t go out. It’s sort of half lit all the time from the moment you turn the ignition key on and once the engine is running. The alternator is not charging the battery. There is 6.75 volts at the alternator field input terminal from moment the ignition is turned on and it stays at 6.75 volts when the engine is running. The alternator output terminal stays at battery voltage. I’m assuming the alternator needs replacing. In the old days I’d connect 12v straight into the field input to test the alternator field circuit and if the output went to say 18 volts I’d say the regulator alone needs changing but not sure some of the modern electronics will like 18 volts so not doing that.
Has anybody anything to add or suggest as a way round going for complete alternator replacement though to be fair I’d say myself it’s probably most sensible option?
 

Cowcorn

Member
Mixed Farmer
The battery warning light won’t go out. It’s sort of half lit all the time from the moment you turn the ignition key on and once the engine is running. The alternator is not charging the battery. There is 6.75 volts at the alternator field input terminal from moment the ignition is turned on and it stays at 6.75 volts when the engine is running. The alternator output terminal stays at battery voltage. I’m assuming the alternator needs replacing. In the old days I’d connect 12v straight into the field input to test the alternator field circuit and if the output went to say 18 volts I’d say the regulator alone needs changing but not sure some of the modern electronics will like 18 volts so not doing that.
Has anybody anything to add or suggest as a way round going for complete alternator replacement though to be fair I’d say myself it’s probably most sensible option?
A visit to your local auto electric repair shop i think .
The will test the alternator and advise .
A new one wont clean you out even though the mattress is gone a root under the sofa should cover it !!! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:.
Keep away from Claas dealer or you will be royally bent over happened a mate of mine last year claas dealer wanted 400 euro local auto shop 180 same alternator !!
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Finally gained access to the alternator by tilting cab forward and removing panel behind cab. Initially thought I’d have to get my brother to hold me by the ankles and drop me head first into the engine bay. A bit different to the JD with the engine behind the tank but I’m getting used to it. At least it came to light before harvest started.
 

carbonfibre farmer

Member
Arable Farmer
Finally gained access to the alternator by tilting cab forward and removing panel behind cab. Initially thought I’d have to get my brother to hold me by the ankles and drop me head first into the engine bay. A bit different to the JD with the engine behind the tank but I’m getting used to it. At least it came to light before harvest started.
Better to do it now rather than on a hot mid afternoon (we'll see if we get many of them....)
 

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