Dr Elaine Ingham/compost

[Daniel Tyrkiel]

I know, right? The thing that most people don't yet know how to do is growing out the beneficial microorganisms. Most of the stuff used on farms simply returns some nutrients to the plant available pool. The microbes bring a promise of mining the total pool and drawing nitrogen from the atmosphere directly.

 

[Rob Garrett]

Hi Rob, yes about the JS.

Getting the fungal component up is a challenge, but I believe that we can help.

We have a weekly drop in session every Wednesday for farmers who want to ask us questions about this. It's 4.30pm. If you message me your email I can send you the invite.

These sessions are recorded, and you can view them here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCogon8wegEazhcqcny25fbQ/videos

We have a product now that can start your pile with beneficial fungi, and we'll soon be offering a nutrient mix that in our early tests showed promise to support the development of beneficial fungi.

Let me know how I can help.

Interesting difference in Fungal numbers on your spreadsheet comparing JS Mini & JS Bioreactor, any guesses as to why? Different feedstock, limited sample in trial, process difference between the two?

 

[Daniel Tyrkiel]

You'll find more answers on the JS group on Facebook. I don't know if this link is allowed, so remove if not:

Johnson-Su Composting | Facebook

Discussions of Biologically Enhanced Agricultural Management in general and Johnson-Su composting in particular. Johnson-Su composting being a long maturing ( 12 months +), aerobic, no-turning,...

www.facebook.com

Wojtek who's the owner of the mini piles contributed his answers and some images:

 

[Rob Garrett]

The Menart is old and a bit temperamental, but does a good job when it's going.

We spread 5 tons / acre.

What feedstock are you using to make your compost?

 

[Rob Garrett]

how many people have used the phrase 'the pH corrected itself'? This is exactly what I'm beginning to wonder about our 'modern' version of farming.

Last week I paid a South African fellow, who describes himself as an organic consultant, who is also an Ingham enthusiast to come and chat about compost/compost tea and take some soil samples for him to complete a microscopy analysis. He was terrific, enthusiastic and I only wish he wasn't emigrating to Canada next week to be with his family. We have settled on a plan to make both organic matter based compost from our cattle, poultry and woodchip components as well as what else we have. We will also make what he calls a 'biologically complete' compost tea to spray on the whole farm every month or thereabouts.

Have you made a start yet?

Got some woodchip into the cattle shed to use as feedstock for the second compost batch, will add cattle, barley straw, silage scrapings etc then generous sprinkling of mag lime before mucking out.

 

[Daniel Tyrkiel]

Looks like they love it!

 

[Rob Garrett]

Looks like they love it!

Working out a bit expensive compared to straw this year, that's roughly 17 cubic metres @ £20/cube, 4" to 6" deep in a 60'x20' shed with 20 600kg steers lasted about 3 weeks before straw went in.

Changed to a 50:50 virgin chip:tree surgery residue this batch, thinking the residue will be younger wood, smaller chip & a % of leaf material. Only concern is if there's any Yew = dead cattle.

Thinking will add some topsoil as we'll as maglime @ mucking out.

 

[scotston]

Not yet. But have similar to you for ingredients. Need some tools first. And a little more clue. I'm concerned that I haven't got a sensible feedback loop in the form of my own microscope and suitable teachings. I'm really considering paying the $5K and doing the course. That way I should know if the compost is good, bad or no better than a pile o shi....

 

[mo!]

Not yet. But have similar to you for ingredients. Need some tools first. And a little more clue. I'm concerned that I haven't got a sensible feedback loop in the form of my own microscope and suitable teachings. I'm really considering paying the $5K and doing the course. That way I should know if the compost is good, bad or no better than a pile o shi....

$5K?

Is it run by this guy?

 

[scotston]

Ha! Harry Enfield is class. Loved that mo.

What's your thoughts on soil biology then - clearly not worth spending a chunk of money on. So either it's all a bit pointless or you already have a decent grasp?

 

[mo!]

Ha! Harry Enfield is class. Loved that mo.

What's your thoughts on soil biology then - clearly not worth spending a chunk of money on. So either it's all a bit pointless or you already have a decent grasp?

Add FYM.

Repeat.

Simples.

 

[SilliamWhale]

Not yet. But have similar to you for ingredients. Need some tools first. And a little more clue. I'm concerned that I haven't got a sensible feedback loop in the form of my own microscope and suitable teachings. I'm really considering paying the $5K and doing the course. That way I should know if the compost is good, bad or no better than a pile o shi....

Honestly save your money.

Make some muck and compost it if it suits but all you will end up with is a microscope in a box under the stairs. Keep it simple. Keep soil testing where you can.

 

[Treg]

Not yet. But have similar to you for ingredients. Need some tools first. And a little more clue. I'm concerned that I haven't got a sensible feedback loop in the form of my own microscope and suitable teachings. I'm really considering paying the $5K and doing the course. That way I should know if the compost is good, bad or no better than a pile o shi....

I read somewhere if it looks like you've set fire to it you've made good compost, so your looking dark compost with a white / light grey Ash looking material mixed in .
I think you'll know when it's right.....I'm quite happy to take $5k to show you how to make good compost if you want.

 

[Simon C]

I read somewhere if it looks like you've set fire to it you've made good compost, so your looking dark compost with a white / light grey Ash looking material mixed in .
I think you'll know when it's right.....I'm quite happy to take $5k to show you how to make good compost if you want.

Sorry but you read wrong somewhere.

Black compost means it has been too hot and therefore killed everything useful. Grey ash looking means it has been on fire!

Good compost hasn't been over 70 C during the whole making process and should be the colour of rotted wood, sort of dark brown.

 

[Rob Garrett]

No turn compost the hard way!

 

[mo!]

No turn compost the hard way!

I've often thought about a grain stirrer type setup in our muck store...

 

[Treg]

Sorry but you read wrong somewhere.

Black compost means it has been too hot and therefore killed everything useful. Grey ash looking means it has been on fire!

Good compost hasn't been over 70 C during the whole making process and should be the colour of rotted wood, sort of dark brown.

Nature shows us when it's right , the grey ash effect is the fungi spores, any damp weather and the compost is covered in mushrooms.

 

[Rob Garrett]

I've often thought about a grain stirrer type setup in our muck store...

That's a good idea.

The thinking behind the "no turn" is to get higher fungal content, like ploughing soil, turning compost could damage/pee off the fungi!

Lad nextdoor has a 12" soil auger for his 4CX, which might be a better option next time, hand held job didn't go deep enough. Only needs doing once.

 

[Rob Garrett]

Add FYM.

Repeat.

Simples.

Spot on, but I never seem to have enough of the stuff, so started outwintering cattle, catch crops for sheep & undersowing clover. Now seeing soil bacteria dominant (weeds; Fathen, Orach, Redshank, soil get compact etc) & would like to drop pre-em. spray/cost.

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Spot on, but I never seem to have enough of the stuff, so started outwintering cattle, catch crops for sheep & undersowing clover. Now seeing soil bacteria dominant (weeds; Fathen, Orach, Redshank, soil get compact etc) & would like to drop pre-em. spray/cost.

In-situ composting is actually pretty ideal when you look at the "actuals" of alternatives.