Dreaming about lathes / mills

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Just that the screw is off the compound, so really my lathe out of action.
I haven't tried to see what who happen if i just tightened up the gib and left that fixed ??? But id bin wondering

Or i might come across a pair that may be imperial ? But would it really matter on the compound, i pressume one revolution would be .100"
 

Simmy

Member
When I used to production machine, the old fellas there said as a rule of thumb, any precise work on the compound should have a dti running behind
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
If there was a 2mm pitch would b ideal John.
Thinking about calling tomorrow re. Lathe tips for 2 mm. Trapizodial. Wotever it's called external. Seems best idea atm. Then poss but after screw looking better, which by that time will probably be m12 , or I think TR 12. Then consider the nut.
 
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tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
I forgot to update . How rude of me .
Slide bin back together for a while ,all seems fine , cleaned , chased thread on screw with a tipped tool .

Im considering a er collet chuck prob er40 , any advice as to were to purchase. Its going to be a chinezium no doubt, but for what im doing ....... if banggood sold one i would have ordered it as alot of reviews for their stuff aint too bad
 

TheTallGuy

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
I forgot to update . How rude of me .
Slide bin back together for a while ,all seems fine , cleaned , chased thread on screw with a tipped tool .

Im considering a er collet chuck prob er40 , any advice as to were to purchase. Its going to be a chinezium no doubt, but for what im doing ....... if banggood sold one i would have ordered it as alot of reviews for their stuff aint too bad
If you go for ER40 then I'd recommend getting an ER16 set too for getting into tight spaces when using short/smaller bits. MSC Direct are pretty good, although not the cheapest.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Viewing a k + t vertical mill tomorrow
I believe its on int 40 spindle 3 ph 3 hp .
Quill has vertical travel.
Powered in 3 axis ....
Seems cheep and seller seems a really nice chap ????
There is a idexing head which would be an extra , but it seems to be the correct one for it , how much is that worth ?? The head .
Presuming i can see it under power and all seems fine ?? Any big doo, don'ts ,
I fully understand that this is a fairly stupid post , far to general, even by my standards.
I wasn'tlooking especially for a mill but this has caught my eye.
Online there is loads about k + t no. 2 ect. But this is a no. 1 so presumably a bit smaller. No.2 is on a 50 i think .
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
Right now this is the deal of the year...
If it was any closer I wouldn't be telling anyone but seeing since its not...

It's an earlier mascot, its an easy enough fix, just make a new tank but it I'd break into great money if it was a lemon because most parts are an eye watering price for them altho a sin that would be.

No chucks or anything with it but even so, cheap place to start atm.
Removing it will hold a lot back which will probably keep it cheaper but hey, yer a resourceful bunch...


 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Ok mill been home for a while , another b#stard money pit .
I am planning to get a er40 chuck ect . For the harrison, grabbed a er40 and er32 for the mill cuz seemed cheap . Looking into collets now , anyone used any sets at sensible money that aint made of chocolate.
Im told banggood collets are shite , rdg s seems reasonable......

Still waiting on Scottish power, who are Muppets to continue with 3 ph instal so i can power up mill
 

Simmy

Member
Dont get jealous boys..... £1000. Stands 11 foot high. It will drill a 100mm hole. Thought it was an absolute steal. Maybe too big for what I want, but when it's on your doorstep [emoji848][emoji848]
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jd24

Member
I'll share my limited knowledge...
-I find a lathe and a good drill press covers most needs for a farmer. I'm always turning things on my lathe. I find I'm always using my lathe for finishing bushings or cutting a thread... You can also add another axis to a lathe which turns it into a horizontal mill.
-If you want to learn don't buy a new machine unless you pay someone to come and set it up. Also buying the machine is only a fraction of the total cost. You will need a load of tools guages and clamps to make it work how you want.
-My father in-law recommended I get a used Myford ML10 for my first lathe and it has been brilliant. If you want something bigger then ML7 is a good start but any of the older English makes would be a good start. The benefit with these old English lathes is that they are normally owned by former engineers (like my father in-law) and have it all set up nicely(not always though). When I bought my lathe I was given a "box of bits" with it by the owners son who was clearing the garage. I worked out their was nearly £1000 of dial gauges, carbide tools, gears and a spare head. All worth double what I paid for the lathe lol
-A load of newer kit particularly hobby/ general use machines generally look the same. If you go on eBay, Axminster , machine mart and warco you will find some lathes and mills that look identical but vary in price by a huge amount. Let's just say you pay for what you get..

I still think about when my school go rd of the old metalwork machines because of health and safety. Old boxford, Bridgeport machines and viceroy ended up cut up in a skip..!!! Sin!!
 

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