Does anybody on here run a drill as a shallow cultivator so perhaps establish a cover crop or get a grass weed chit and then use it to plant the proper crop directly? I am thinking along the lines of a disc cultivator drill such as a pronto or rapid where you can lift the cultivation elements clear for direct seeding if you have enough loosened soil in the top 20-40mm, which you would of achieved by using the cultivation elements in the first pass planing the cover crop or getting a grass weed chit. I think we are heading for a bigger problem by not moving the soil to get a weed flush because it seems to be appearing at the same time as the crop we have planted using a no till drill.
Drill as a shallow cultivator
- Thread starter D14
- Start date
Devon James
Member
- Location
- Devon
Have used the Claydon for that. It was more for the reason to get the double rear harrow set up before planting the next day, but carried on and did the field. Pulled all the front tines up to most shallow position and A shares were set for OSR-shallow.
Not sure we would want to do it with a tined machine as they are much harder to control at shallow depths but a disc drill would not have this issue.
I think @Goldilocks does
- Location
- East Essexshire
I've used my Freeflow for cultivation. Both into stubble, and as a pass before drilling in cultivated ground.
In fact, I might take the drilling unit off my 6m to just use it like a Top Tilth.
In fact, I might take the drilling unit off my 6m to just use it like a Top Tilth.
General-Lee
Member
- Location
- Devon
Most excellent for stirring up neighbour's getting them itchy...downside they'll think you've cocked up and going over it again.
- Location
- Lincs / Cambs border
I've got a 6.6m with the top removed , we have fitted 50 mm pig tail drag points to all the tines and paddle boards instead of the rear harrows . We use it as a precision depth cultivator or heavy duty Harrow .
- Location
- Oxfordshire
We use our 10m Kockerling tined drill as a cultivator to create stale seedbed and kill slugs etc. Other advantage is that it breaks the surface and creates a seeding bed so when we go through drilling, the tines are not chattering so much and seeding depth accuracy is better. ( Rigid frame ,non contour following seeding tines )
Which model is that?
damaged
Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
@Goldilocks . How big is the gaps between coulters? Was thinking a Sprinter would be okay for dual purpose but 10" spacing with 6" foot may leave undisturbed area.
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Basically an Allrounder springtine cultivator with seed pipes down the legs. 16.6 cm spacing. We are wanting an undisturbed area between the tines to preserve soil biology and structure.
Did you add the hopper yourself as its not shown on the kockerling website as an option on the allrounder?
And do you go direct into chopped straw or covers with it? Blockages?
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Sitting Pretty
Member
Got a Horsch Express TD drill (mounted pronto) and use it when required to improve seedbeds in heavier pockets of land that sometimes need an extra pass. To save wear and tear when using it as a chatting tool, (effectively a joker) I lift the seed coulters out of work.
If soil is in good condition it would happily drill a cover crop etc direct into stubble but we are on generally lite to medium ground. Can't justify on 400 acres to have all the toys so use what I have or hire where possible.
If soil is in good condition it would happily drill a cover crop etc direct into stubble but we are on generally lite to medium ground. Can't justify on 400 acres to have all the toys so use what I have or hire where possible.
Do you have any pictures please? As the online info states it's a secondary cultivator rather than a primary into stubble but in essence it does look quite versatile.
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Would it level ground up at all? And would two passes move all the soil if ran in different directions?
- Location
- Oxfordshire
It has a hydraulic levelling board on the front. Two passes in different directions would move all the soil. ( one pass would if the points were wide enough. We have the ability to use 2 inch spikes or 7 or 9 inch sweeps as we have fitted borgault quick change point system )
And I guess swapping to min disturbance points like some are fitting on here would mean it could move very little soil as well if required? Would 200hp be enough on a 6m all the time or would you need 250hp? Thinking about sowing beans at depth and then also when it's running as a 6m cultivator effectively with wider points perhaps.
Geoffrey Wox
Member
- Location
- Northumberland
