Drilling advice needed

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Drilling with autosteer RTk on new Holland tractor.

Up until now on 24 m tramlines I have had to overlap a half run with our 4m drill. This has been enough to take out any small kinks in the field.

Gone to 28m now so won't have to do half width overlap. Will drill the first tramline in square headland mode so I'm not putting the sprayer boom into fence. How big a nudge do you normally put in to put up first straight? Is there anyway of calculating it using gps?

I know you "progressive farmers" don't do tramlines but don't have autosteer on sprayer tractor.
 

Shutesy

Moderator
Arable Farmer
How big an area are you drilling? I would be tempted to drill your headland, putting in a headland tramline, then drill the middle of the field without tramlines and then just run up and down with your autosteered NH to put in a tramline wheelmark for the sprayer to follow later.
 

tr250

Member
Location
Northants
Drilling with autosteer RTk on new Holland tractor.

Up until now on 24 m tramlines I have had to overlap a half run with our 4m drill. This has been enough to take out any small kinks in the field.

Gone to 28m now so won't have to do half width overlap. Will drill the first tramline in square headland mode so I'm not putting the sprayer boom into fence. How big a nudge do you normally put in to put up first straight? Is there anyway of calculating it using gps?

I know you "progressive farmers" don't do tramlines but don't have autosteer on sprayer tractor.
Can you get it to go square into field corners rather than round them off?
We put marker out on pass 7 and do an a to b for the middle at that point hopefully it’s saved then for next year
Edit were also 4m drill and 28m tramline I’m thick so need to keep it simple
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
How big an area are you drilling? I would be tempted to drill your headland, putting in a headland tramline, then drill the middle of the field without tramlines and then just run up and down with your autosteered NH to put in a tramline wheelmark for the sprayer to follow later.
Got 700 acres of spring barley to put in.
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Can you get it to go square into field corners rather than round them off?
We put marker out on pass 7 and do an a to b for the middle at that point hopefully it’s saved then for next year
Edit were also 4m drill and 28m tramline I’m thick so need to keep it simple
I can get it to square them off. But doesn't seem to do them all for some reason! Just adjust min turn radius.

Always drill headlands last here. 4m combi. Rip up ends with a cultivator before sowing them.
 

jh.

Member
Location
fife
Is your 4m a true 4m between outside discs ? Only ask as know of someone who has stopped tramlining his fields as found he always had narrow trams for liquid fert . Sure he said his 3m was only 2.95 or there abouts so could never get true trams unless looking like he had held too wide
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Is your 4m a true 4m between outside discs ? Only ask as know of someone who has stopped tramlining his fields as found he always had narrow trams for liquid fert . Sure he said his 3m was only 2.95 or there abouts so could never get true trams unless looking like he had held too wide
Yes its definitely 4m. Spent plenty time buggering about with a tape measure setting up gps offset. Amazone doesn't pull straight
 

Shutesy

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Got 700 acres of spring barley to put in.
Hmm quite a lot to run back over doing nothing other than marking out wheelmarks. Surely the amount of nudge to go from a wobbly headland run to a perfectly straight A-B line is entirely field dependent? Some fields might need a 50cm nudge over to not miss any, some might need 3m etc? On our John Deeres we have each field marked with a boundary as the outer edge of the field, i use that to generate an internal headland mark 30m (30m tramlines) into the field to set my first A-B off (and to lift and lower the drill), I use the zoom out function on the screen and the coverage/guidance lines to see how much I need to nudge my first A-B line over.
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Hmm quite a lot to run back over doing nothing other than marking out wheelmarks. Surely the amount of nudge to go from a wobbly headland run to a perfectly straight A-B line is entirely field dependent? Some fields might need a 50cm nudge over to not miss any, some might need 3m etc? On our John Deeres we have each field marked with a boundary as the outer edge of the field, i use that to generate an internal headland mark 30m (30m tramlines) into the field to set my first A-B off (and to lift and lower the drill), I use the zoom out function on the screen and the coverage/guidance lines to see how much I need to nudge my first A-B line over.
I'm hoping there's a function like that in new Holland system.
 

Bobthebuilder

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
northumberland
Depends on your dyke, are you starting off hedge or leaving headland all the way around, we’re on 28m with 4m drill try n start of straightest dyke run AB line on first run then take it from there, if dyke not quite straight put the first tramline in then straighten it off depends if it’s ( or ) or S as to how much overlap is needed, haven’t got round to mapping every field yet and storing them in memory but really should do
 

oval

Member
im at 24m with a 4m drill so start on usually longest straightest side do 5 runs then set an ab and simply mark a and then b on the inside of the most pronounced bits of curves as I do run 6 and then no missed bits from curvy headland to straight just some overlaps to take curves out if that makes sense . I tramline on no3 and 4 as no half shut off
 

Norfolk Olly

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
norfolk
i put headland tramline in at 18m from hedge then put the first landwork tramline 18m from that, so a half sprayer width, because it puts the tramlines in the correct place for irrigation.
i would probably put your A B line off the narrowest points against the hedge then put first tramline in on your 10th swath
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Depends on your dyke, are you starting off hedge or leaving headland all the way around, we’re on 28m with 4m drill try n start of straightest dyke run AB line on first run then take it from there, if dyke not quite straight put the first tramline in then straighten it off depends if it’s ( or ) or S as to how much overlap is needed, haven’t got round to mapping every field yet and storing them in memory but really should do
Your on CNH autosteer too?

Do you use nudge? Or drive manually and plot AB?

At moment I just go into edit screen and set interior line off headland I've recorded.
 

Bobthebuilder

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
northumberland
Your on CNH autosteer too?

Do you use nudge? Or drive manually and plot AB?

At moment I just go into edit screen and set interior line off headland I've recorded.
Yes CNH pro 700 screen, just manually run A-B line, depends if ground is worked in front or not and if I've got pronto or combi on, also if no straightish dyke I sometimes just run A-B and leave headland all the way around, both our sprayer and fert spreader have auto shut off so overlapping is minimal
 

Bobthebuilder

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
northumberland
At moment I just go into edit screen and set interior line off headland I've recorded.
[/QUOTE]
Probably as good a way as any, I really should get all our fields mapped and stored in memory or on usb but was having issues with tractor not storing fields properly so never got round to getting someone (who knows how to work it all) showing me how to set it all up, as not got a book for GPS side of it :scratchhead:
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
I do have them all mapped. I would advise mapping with drill as it seems to throw up issues when you go in with another machine different width to what field was mapped with.

I've no book for gps either. Not sure if anything available. Would be handy.
 

Boysground

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Wiltshire
Fendt system here Rtk 4m Vaderstad and 24m. I use the drill to mark the headland, most fields are now saved so it’s only if I’m not happy with the boundaries. Drill the headland just on the side I’m starting from out to the headland tramline. I use that to manually set the a-b. Then I tend to put in the 1st field tramline and fill the test in from there. Now have section control on fert and spray so it’s only a matter of making sure I’m not wide on the wobbly headlands.

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