Drum Mower Setup - Samasz 1.65 Z010

TrickyT

Member
Can anyone give advice on the set up of a Samasz 1.65 Z010 drum mower? I have looked at the instructions here, but it doesn't really go into much detail.

http://jawas.home.pl/samasz/instrukcje/IN005USA.pdf

The previous drum mower we had used to sit flat when raised in the cutting position as seen in the picture below.

20200728_134747126_iOS.jpg


However the new one tips down at the front right, it clears the ground, but doesn't look right?

20200728_142143939_iOS.jpg


20200728_142416241_iOS.jpg


20200728_142421512_iOS.jpg


We did try and raise the right hand side using the levelling lever, which did move it up, but the headstock then was no where near level.

It might me just that it is designed this way, but we have no idea.

Also, how should the 'float' be set up, we adjusted it with the the levelling lever so that it is in the middle, is this correct?

20200728_142332039_iOS.jpg


There are also 2 pins for the 3 point linkage, these have been left how it came. I assume they can be moved to alter the position of the mower on the linkage. With them set as they are, it positions the mower furthest away from the wheel.

20200728_142647334_iOS.jpg


20200728_142643430_iOS.jpg


We have used it to cut some hay and it does a lovely job, but just seems 'wrong' when lifted. Nothing snags on it and the PTO shaft doesn't foul.

Regards

Trevor
 

Werzle

Member
Location
Midlands
Can anyone give advice on the set up of a Samasz 1.65 Z010 drum mower? I have looked at the instructions here, but it doesn't really go into much detail.

http://jawas.home.pl/samasz/instrukcje/IN005USA.pdf

The previous drum mower we had used to sit flat when raised in the cutting position as seen in the picture below.

View attachment 897648

However the new one tips down at the front right, it clears the ground, but doesn't look right?

View attachment 897649

View attachment 897650

View attachment 897651

We did try and raise the right hand side using the levelling lever, which did move it up, but the headstock then was no where near level.

It might me just that it is designed this way, but we have no idea.

Also, how should the 'float' be set up, we adjusted it with the the levelling lever so that it is in the middle, is this correct?

View attachment 897653

There are also 2 pins for the 3 point linkage, these have been left how it came. I assume they can be moved to alter the position of the mower on the linkage. With them set as they are, it positions the mower furthest away from the wheel.

View attachment 897654

View attachment 897655

We have used it to cut some hay and it does a lovely job, but just seems 'wrong' when lifted. Nothing snags on it and the PTO shaft doesn't foul.

Regards

Trevor
Two things strike me, your top link is to short ,and when the mower swings round it should have a mowing position bar . Your mower seems to have swung round 8-12 inches to far which is lifting the far link arm. Usually you put the mower down on the floor and wind the top link a turn or two to angle the mower into the crop a little , otherwise it cuts to high.
 

Still Farming

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Glamorgan Wales
Top link too short.
Set it when mower is flat on floor .
Too short you will dig in more and scalp ground.
Too long and you will leave longer stubble.
The bottom pins can be adjusted to set the mower more to the left or right when cutting.
The levelling are can be wound up a bit as when you raise the mower it will be lower that side otherwise.
 

C.J

Member
Location
South Devon
Two things strike me, your top link is to short ,and when the mower swings round it should have a mowing position bar . Your mower seems to have swung round 8-12 inches to far which is lifting the far link arm. Usually you put the mower down on the floor and wind the top link a turn or two to angle the mower into the crop a little , otherwise it cuts to high.

See picture 6 it is correct.

I'm sure the mower angle is set right when cutting - need to put toplink in higher hole on tractor and lower hole on mower so it lifts flatter.

@TrickyT This will help with clearance when lifted and if you wind down your left hand linkarm rod you will further level the head stock and mower bed.

Because the weight is out to one side , the right link arm is in tension and the left arm is in compression.This means any slack in your linkage will cause a big difference in level.Don't forget tyres - more weight on the right,less weight on the left.

I have to wind my LH lift rod down 14 turns to level my mower bed.

You have adjustable lower link pins.These are for adjusting the mowers offset so you are not trying to cut grass you have driven on or missing grass if the offset is too great.This will vary acording to the rear track width and width of rear tyre.If you can you should adjust these so that both lower link arms are at the same angle and central but this may not be possible on a wide tractor.
 

Werzle

Member
Location
Midlands
See picture 6 it is correct.

I'm sure the mower angle is set right when cutting - need to put toplink in higher hole on tractor and lower hole on mower so it lifts flatter.

@TrickyT This will help with clearance when lifted and if you wind down your left hand linkarm rod you will further level the head stock and mower bed.

Because the weight is out to one side , the right link arm is in tension and the left arm is in compression.This means any slack in your linkage will cause a big difference in level.Don't forget tyres - more weight on the right,less weight on the left.

I have to wind my LH lift rod down 14 turns to level my mower bed.

You have adjustable lower link pins.These are for adjusting the mowers offset so you are not trying to cut grass you have driven on or missing grass if the offset is too great.This will vary acording to the rear track width and width of rear tyre.If you can you should adjust these so that both lower link arms are at the same angle and central but this may not be possible on a wide tractor.
Oh yes i can see it now
 

TrickyT

Member
So have changed the top link. It was already in the highest position on the tractor, but moved it to the lowest position on the mower. This has changed the angle of the mower when raised, it still tilts forward slightly, but not as much.

Have tightened the stays to stop the mower swinging too far forward.

Have done another cut with it today and it runs much better.

Many thanks.

Trevor
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
It’s the geometry of your tractor linkage as said. The top link is too close to the link arms therefore as it lifts it yanks the back of machine up. If it’s in tractor top hole and machine bottom there’s not a lot more you can do. Out of interest if you still have the old mower measure the pin centres from top link to lower pin. Do same fot both tractors if you can aswell. IIRC MF 300s only have one mounting hole for the hydraulic arms at tractor end
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
As MH says, this is geometry. You have two problems, (a) the correct level along the line parallel to the tractor, i.e. front to rear of the mower, and (b) the correct level of the cutter bar at right angles to the tractor, i.e. tilt up or down of the mower at right angles to the tractor.

(a) is controlled by the top link. Extend the top link and the rear of the mower will go down. Shorten the top link and it will tilt up. If neither of these adjustments achieves back to front levelling of the mower, you can (i) adjust the top link length with the screwed ends, and/or (ii) move the end attachments to a different hole on the tractor, or (iii) get a different sized top link. If adjusting the top link doesn't solve the problem, you probably need a new top link.

(b) levelling of the cutter bar is achieved by adjusting the height of the link arm.

These mowers are pretty simple bit I suspect this manual loses something in the translation from the Polish! Mine was on a MF 135 and the front wheels would lift off the ground if I hit a mole hill but was fine on level ground! Initially, it broke back at the slightest excuse. I discovered that the previous owner had replaced the break back spring with one that was too weak. Fixed that and it never put a foot wrong.
 

jamesy

Member
Location
Orkney
Is there any scope for altering length of this? It would help lift up end of mower a bit. The Niemeyer’s we used to have had a clevis on the lower end of bar with a few holes to choose from
05A643A8-19F0-4446-82D9-EC50FBAD742B.jpeg
 

TrickyT

Member
It’s the geometry of your tractor linkage as said. The top link is too close to the link arms therefore as it lifts it yanks the back of machine up. If it’s in tractor top hole and machine bottom there’s not a lot more you can do. Out of interest if you still have the old mower measure the pin centres from top link to lower pin. Do same fot both tractors if you can aswell. IIRC MF 300s only have one mounting hole for the hydraulic arms at tractor end

The old mower fitted on the JD3050 no issues and this one was purchased and we told the dealers that it was to go on the JD3050.

No matter what we tried, it would not fit as it was too close and would touch the rear wheel. The dealer sent his engineers up and the decided that it wouldn't fit on. The suggestion was to either change the rear tyres to smaller ones or put it on a different tractor.

Thats when we put it on the MF390. It sits close to the rear wheels, but not enough to interfere, so it the geometry of the mower as the old one sat level on both the JD3050 and MF390.

We are going to have a look at in the yard on some lever concrete where we can have a good look round to ensure it is set up correctly in the two plains.

Trevor
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
The old mower fitted on the JD3050 no issues and this one was purchased and we told the dealers that it was to go on the JD3050.

No matter what we tried, it would not fit as it was too close and would touch the rear wheel. The dealer sent his engineers up and the decided that it wouldn't fit on. The suggestion was to either change the rear tyres to smaller ones or put it on a different tractor.

Thats when we put it on the MF390. It sits close to the rear wheels, but not enough to interfere, so it the geometry of the mower as the old one sat level on both the JD3050 and MF390.

We are going to have a look at in the yard on some lever concrete where we can have a good look round to ensure it is set up correctly in the two plains.

Trevor
I sometimes use a mower the same on my 398 and it fits fine, even with 16.9 38 wheels, the top link geometry isn't perfect but it's ok, good mower but the claas in your first photo is about 1000 times better
 

TrickyT

Member
I sometimes use a mower the same on my 398 and it fits fine, even with 16.9 38 wheels, the top link geometry isn't perfect but it's ok, good mower but the claas in your first photo is about 1000 times better

The Claas was a lovely mover, but the last time out with it, 4 of the teeth in the gearbox sheared damaging the other cog. Could only find a second hand gear box for £400 + VAT and getting new gears cut would not be cheap, so the brother in law thought it would be a better investment to get something a bit newer.

Trevor
 
Nothing you can do I'm afraid. There is no cam on the head-stock to lift the outer end of the mower up any higher.

The lower link pins appear to be adjustable for length only, this will be to ensure (dependent on what size of tractor) that you clear the tyre and straddle the cut swath.

Setting the mower down on flat concrete, the drums should be flat on the ground, and the flotation slot in the middle, then shorten the top link ONE TURN only. This is NOT to 'toe-in' the drums, but to ensure when operating the drag from the crop takes out all the free-play in the tractor linkage and the mower (bottom saucers) are perfectly flat on the ground. If you want to alter the length of cut, drop the bottom saucers off and add or subtract spacers to do this.

If you are still not happy, the only other solution would be to reduce the length of the flotation slot slightly by filling it with a piece of plate/bolt/chewing gum :)
 

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