Woolless
Member
- Location
- Berwickshire, Scottish Borders
They're not as bad as that! I've got a tup I can't get sound, he might have to go that route, or a lot of highly-spiced burgers!Home kill and feed to dogs?
They're not as bad as that! I've got a tup I can't get sound, he might have to go that route, or a lot of highly-spiced burgers!Home kill and feed to dogs?
Isn't there some irony in that?I'm right with you on most of that. I just don't want to cull ewes of good genetic merit when I can get another crop of lambs from them.
Er, no.Isn't there some irony in that?
Why not keep them another year then?Er, no.
It's generally my policy to keep a good ewe going as long as I can. I don't cast on age. So quite a few of these ewes are broken mouthed or have just got lean through old age. But there's also some that have had mastitis, been a pain in the butt or just not put on enough condition between weaning and tupping.Why not keep them another year then?
the question you need to ask is can she rear 2 lambs , on her own for another year after a hard winter ? long or gappy teeth,, feet , udder or age , depends how much you want to put up with . I always replace a high proportion every year 25-30% (home bred) simply because newer genetics and a younger ewe is a better option , and good cull value of middle age ewe is often better than spring hogg price (i dont sell females for breeding ), this year might be different though on valuesIt's generally my policy to keep a good ewe going as long as I can. I don't cast on age. So quite a few of these ewes are broken mouthed or have just got lean through old age. But there's also some that have had mastitis, been a pain in the butt or just not put on enough condition between weaning and tupping.
I used too be a run them in too the ground kind of guy but like you Iv gone too cull them for anything and everything replacing 25% every year so in theory my ewes won’t get older than 4-5 years old… which means the culls I have too sell are always going too trade reasonably well too cover there replacements cost… does break my hard though killing good well preforming ewes just because they’ve lost 1 tooththe question you need to ask is can she rear 2 lambs , on her own for another year after a hard winter ? long or gappy teeth,, feet , udder or age , depends how much you want to put up with . I always replace a high proportion every year 25-30% (home bred) simply because newer genetics and a younger ewe is a better option , and good cull value of middle age ewe is often better than spring hogg price (i dont sell females for breeding ), this year might be different though on values
What is the depreciation like on a broker Shetland? They can’t be worth much at the end and must cost a far bit to get from Shetland.I buy broker Shetlands and get 1/2 years out of them. My theory is someone else has already demonstrated their longevity, so they're great to breed replacements out of.
I think to be fair to them they are generally quite happy go lucky, always smiling!What is the depression like on a broker Shetland? They can’t be worth much at the end and must cost a far bit to get from Shetland.
Just need plenty of trough space, otherwise you get Pulp FrictionEwes fatten like buggery off beet pulp. Doesn’t need too be dear fancy feed. Especially those old toothless hill ewes. I went through our feeding ewes and pulled the 25 very old lean ones that would just die outside. Put them in on good hay and SBP. Very impressed how fast they are fleshing out. (Apart from the 1 fecking swale, that died) as you say, bit of hard feed is better than knackerman bill!!
And be quick feeding them or your knees get pulped!Just need plenty of trough space, otherwise you get Pulp Friction
Went over my ankle yesterday. Feeding the old buggers last night wasn't much funAnd be quick feeding them or your knees get pulped!
What is the depreciation like on a broker Shetland? They can’t be worth much at the end and must cost a far bit to get from Shetland.
If they're struggling to fatten they're there too long.It's generally my policy to keep a good ewe going as long as I can. I don't cast on age. So quite a few of these ewes are broken mouthed or have just got lean through old age. But there's also some that have had mastitis, been a pain in the butt or just not put on enough condition between weaning and tupping.
They don't all stay until they're pensioners, only if they still have good EBVs and a good track record! Happy to take a hit on a few of the golden oldies proven over course and distance.If they're struggling to fatten they're there too long.
Surely if the right rams have been used in the past the younger ewes in the flock will be better than the old stock.
Ewe lambs from ewe lambs is the quickest genetic progress.
If so, why do these old sheep need to stay so long just get enough females to keep?
That was my point about the irony of the idea.
Agree with this. I think to improve your flock you have to have a high replacement rate if you are breeding your own . I’ve done both and working with a flying flock of older ewes is hard work compared to a young homebred flock Be it a cow or ewe regular culling pays.If they're struggling to fatten they're there too long.
Surely if the right rams have been used in the past the younger ewes in the flock will be better than the old stock.
Ewe lambs from ewe lambs is the quickest genetic progress.
If so, why do these old sheep need to stay so long just get enough females to keep?
That was my point about the irony of the idea.
Don't the trendy Guru's say manage the flock not the individualsThey don't all stay until they're pensioners, only if they still have good EBVs and a good track record! Happy to take a hit on a few of the golden oldies proven over course and distance.
But aren't the young ewes better to breed from on all fronts?They don't all stay until they're pensioners, only if they still have good EBVs and a good track record! Happy to take a hit on a few of the golden oldies proven over course and distance.