Fella TH 520

[Dave W]

Update, she is alive. Not bad for making every thing from scratch. Shaft, gear, never machined a gear before, they are bloody hard. She runs lovely. The proof is in the pudding. Will it all hold up to testing for several hours. We shall see later this week.

I’m interested to know more about the gear machining.
There’s a proper old fashioned gear cutting shop in the old industrial part of Sheffield. Been in a few times and the machines there are mesmerising

 

[Deutzdx3]

Looks like a very good job

Its worked pretty well. I have a video of it running but can’t find how to put it up on here.

 

[Deutzdx3]

I’m interested to know more about the gear machining.
There’s a proper old fashioned gear cutting shop in the old industrial part of Sheffield. Been in a few times and the machines there are mesmerising

I can tell you now you don’t want to know! [emoji23] it’s called gorilla engineering. Adapt and overcome. I made a gear out of plasticine. When that meshed well I then went about finding a gear I could machine. Didn’t go well to start with as they are so hard. In the end I had to put oxy on it then machine it, as it cooled I had to ad more oxy and so on. Machines in between the teeth to make them mesh with the mound I made. It’s not as precise as Cnc but it does mesh very well. Also machined a bearing into the orange tube. Don’t have an exploded diagram or any info on it so made it up as I went a long to some degree. If it tedds hay and doesn’t explode it’ll be a win! I’ll take a photo when I take it apart next.

 

[Karliboy]

Its worked pretty well. I have a video of it running but can’t find how to put it up on here.

I’ve always wondered how to upload a vid from iPhone
Any one know how ??

 

[Deutzdx3]

It’s alive and kicking. So far the tedder is working very well. If any one can tell me the best way to set it up that would be great. Guessing it’s via 3pt link for angle adjustment.

 

[Karliboy]

It’s a shame we didn’t get any gear manufacturing pictures

 

[Deutzdx3]

It’s a shame we didn’t get any gear manufacturing pictures

I didn’t take any of the making, I was rushing some what to get it done so it was ready for making hay, I’ll take it apart once I’ve done hay to make sure all is well and to make sure there isn’t any damage. I’ll take some photos then. Sorry about that.

 

[michael N123]

When it’s unfolded an off the ground with the tractor turned off underneath that new bit you’ve made move the pin into a different hole so you don’t throw the grass into the dyke back on your first pass round

 

[Deutzdx3]

It’s a shame we didn’t get any gear manufacturing pictures

Some times things don’t quite go right so earlier than I wanted I have some photos. C clip snapped and shaft moved so have had to take it out and add another clip in at the top.

 

[Karliboy]

Some times things don’t quite go right so earlier than I wanted I have some photos. C clip snapped and shaft moved so have had to take it out and add another clip in at the top. View attachment 683882View attachment 683884View attachment 683886

Do you think Could there be quite quite a bit of pressure on the c clip when the rotars are under load due to the angles of the bevel gears creating opposing forces. ??

Now you know the gap for the c clip could you weld only the front of the gear only. and manufacture a small sleeve go between gear and bearing to give more substantial support between bearing and gear ?

 

[Deutzdx3]

Do you think Could there be quite quite a bit of pressure on the c clip when the rotars are under load due to the angles of the bevel gears creating opposing forces. ??

Now you know the gap for the c clip could you weld only the front of the gear only. and manufacture a small sleeve go between gear and bearing to give more substantial support between bearing and gear ?

The groove I put in wasn’t deep enough for the clip so it wasn’t seated right. The old shaft had two clips to stop it moving. The angle is really good as after I got it pretty well I ran it with lapping in paste to make them marry even better. A sleeve may be a way of doing it. Going to run with the new cut clips and new groove and see if that holds.

 

[Ludan]

Hi guys, interesting thread re refurbishing fella Tedders.
I bought an 8 rotor fella last year and had planned to go through it in the winter. It all works, but there’s some excessive play between the rotors, so much so, they clash tines and seem to snap them off quite often..
I’ve started pulling it apart and there’s a shaft linking the rotors with a hex end where the bearing and bevel gear fit. This is slightly worn which I think is causing a fair bit of the slop.
I’m also looking at the bevel gears as there’s likely to be play in the meshing.
I wonder if anyone has had these made or can recommend somewhere that could make some. I had a price for the small ones from kramp at £50 or so each (last year) but I’m thinking I’d need to do the larger bevel that’s in each rotor to make a job of it. Not priced those yet, but I’m expecting them to be expensive and as there’s 8 to do it’s possibly not worth the spend.
If I can get them out I’m wondering if it’s feasible to get some custom smaller ones made with slightly wider teeth and cut the larger ones to mesh to these?
It will be a handy machine when done and I’ll repaint it as I go. The paint isn’t the best. Doesn’t look like any primer went on!!
Thanks for any thoughts on my Tedder project.

 

[Dave W]

Hi guys, interesting thread re refurbishing fella Tedders.
I bought an 8 rotor fella last year and had planned to go through it in the winter. It all works, but there’s some excessive play between the rotors, so much so, they clash tines and seem to snap them off quite often..
I’ve started pulling it apart and there’s a shaft linking the rotors with a hex end where the bearing and bevel gear fit. This is slightly worn which I think is causing a fair bit of the slop.
I’m also looking at the bevel gears as there’s likely to be play in the meshing.
I wonder if anyone has had these made or can recommend somewhere that could make some. I had a price for the small ones from kramp at £50 or so each (last year) but I’m thinking I’d need to do the larger bevel that’s in each rotor to make a job of it. Not priced those yet, but I’m expecting them to be expensive and as there’s 8 to do it’s possibly not worth the spend.
If I can get them out I’m wondering if it’s feasible to get some custom smaller ones made with slightly wider teeth and cut the larger ones to mesh to these?
It will be a handy machine when done and I’ll repaint it as I go. The paint isn’t the best. Doesn’t look like any primer went on!!
Thanks for any thoughts on my Tedder project.

I’ve just pulled a fella apart. I doubt your gears are worn. They may just need shimming up. Easy things to work on.
I’ve discovered there’s 2 types of rotor used. One simple has a standard bearing top and bottom. The other has needle bearings and a thrust bearing on bottom

 

[essexpete]

I would check the backlash like Dave suggests but don't set them up too tight. Our old 6 rotor has some backlash.
A reminder here as well, if stored outside leave the tedder unfolded to avoid water running into the shaft bearings.

 

[Ludan]

I’ve just pulled a fella apart. I doubt your gears are worn. They may just need shimming up. Easy things to work on.
I’ve discovered there’s 2 types of rotor used. One simple has a standard bearing top and bottom. The other has needle bearings and a thrust bearing on bottom

Ah ok that’s a good point. I’ll have a look at that. The smaller shaft end sprockets have the odd chipped tooth, but the majority of all the teeth are still there and functional. So I’m guessing that some shims would go under the large rotor gear. I’m yet to figure how that comes apart. Has anyone got any exploded pics or a source for a parts and workshop manual? Mine has the smaller rotors on it. I also have a 4 rotor fella with the larger rotors. We had that new and hasn’t done many acres per year, so it’s a good guide as to how the 8 rotor play should be. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Ludan]

I would check the backlash like Dave suggests but don't set them up too tight. Our old 6 rotor has some backlash.
A reminder here as well, if stored outside leave the tedder unfolded to avoid water running into the shaft bearings.

I would check the backlash like Dave suggests but don't set them up too tight. Our old 6 rotor has some backlash.
A reminder here as well, if stored outside leave the tedder unfolded to avoid water running into the shaft bearings.

thanks yes mines been unfolded and sat in the yard waiting to be sorted. I’ll check the backlash thanks

 

[Dave W]

Ah ok that’s a good point. I’ll have a look at that. The smaller shaft end sprockets have the odd chipped tooth, but the majority of all the teeth are still there and functional. So I’m guessing that some shims would go under the large rotor gear. I’m yet to figure how that comes apart. Has anyone got any exploded pics or a source for a parts and workshop manual? Mine has the smaller rotors on it. I also have a 4 rotor fella with the larger rotors. We had that new and hasn’t done many acres per year, so it’s a good guide as to how the 8 rotor play should be. Thanks for the advice.

Just knock roll pins out the wheel assembly and it all drops off. But if you’re looking at gears assume you’ve done that.
Shims go between the wheel housing and rotor. Or between bottom circlip and bearings depending which type it is

 

[thesilentone]

I'm curious what that plate is on the far arm with 2 angled slots. Mine didn't have that but could see where the brackets were

Those are to fold the guards (that aren't there) down to protect the tines when in transport and storage (to stop anyone poking an eye out) see post #36.

 

[thesilentone]

View attachment 683772

It’s alive and kicking. So far the tedder is working very well. If any one can tell me the best way to set it up that would be great. Guessing it’s via 3pt link for angle adjustment.

Make sure the tines are clearing the ground by a good 2", the movement of the grass will make sure nothing is missed.
A reasonable angle of work will ensure it spreads well, this is a combination of link-arm height and top-link length.

 

[Dave W]

Those are to fold the guards (that aren't there) down to protect the tines when in transport and storage (to stop anyone poking an eye out) see post #36.

got one in the yard now