Fencing questions

[Andy26]

Either 19 or 20 will do.

Either 19 or 20 will do.

I always use 20mm, too tight and when you hammer them into situ you can unsettle the post etc.

 

[tepapa]

I always use 20mm, too tight and when you hammer them into situ you can unsettle the post etc.

Me too, but you can get away with a 19mm.

 

[Greenbeast]

Me too, but you can get away with a 19mm.

damn you all, i bought a 19mm auger bit, in hindsight, with a 19mm flat bit already, a 20mm auger would have offered me more flexibility in general, doh!

 

[Nearly]

damn you all, i bought a 19mm auger bit, in hindsight, with a 19mm flat bit a 20mm auger would have offered me more flexibility in general, doh!

It's not precision engineering, get the hinges hammered in.
A good sized post knocker would bray the strainers in.
Dug in posts are the work of the devil.

 

[Andy26]

It's not precision engineering, get the hinges hammered in.
A good sized post knocker would bray the strainers in.
Dug in posts are the work of the devil.

Yes drive the posts in, much stronger fence.

 

[tepapa]

damn you all, i bought a 19mm auger bit, in hindsight, with a 19mm flat bit already, a 20mm auger would have offered me more flexibility in general, doh!

Sorry you will get a tight fit which is better it just takes more beating with the hammer. Only use 20mm as slightly easier to knock in. Use a heavy hammer and you won't notice.

 

[Greenbeast]

It's not precision engineering, get the hinges hammered in.
A good sized post knocker would bray the strainers in.
Dug in posts are the work of the devil.

these posts are 8" square, 8' long, half in the ground, dug in.
My knocker is currently struggling to get 5.5" pointed rounds into our summer clay.....

 

[Greenbeast]

Is it worth, does anyone, put netting up before posts?
Some of my posts are not straight, with netting up first i have something to align to.
(yes i do use a level)

guys any thoughts on this, it got missed with the posts about drill bits...

 

[tepapa]

Some like the netting up first so they can use it to post along. personally I think its hard work with netting in the way and just use a ground wire for a line. It allows you to spike holes if you need to and you don't need to lift every post over the nett if working on one side.
You need to use your eyes to get posts straight, keep checking as you knock and adjusting.

 

[Greenbeast]

Some like the netting up first so they can use it to post along. personally I think its hard work with netting in the way and just use a ground wire for a line. It allows you to spike holes if you need to and you don't need to lift every post over the nett if working on one side.

Hmm, yes. I will have to work from the other side on most of the next runs. Don't generally have to spike any holes here though.
I might give it a go on the next run

 

[tepapa]

The netting bows out too so you don't quite get the fence as straight as you might think. Easier to get a ground wire super tight to get a straight line and work posts off that, eying the posts up for straightness.

 

[Greenbeast]

The netting bows out too so you don't quite get the fence as straight as you might think. Easier to get a ground wire super tight to get a straight line and work posts off that, eying the posts up for straightness.

that's what i've done on the last run, operator error/bowed chestnut has left me with some wonky.
How about a bottom and a top wire fully tensioned, then posts, then net?
Would also solve the issue i've just had of the top wire installation slackening my net a little

 

[tepapa]

Ye two wires work and set a couple of posts in along the line to staple top wire to. Easy to let down too if you leave the strainer on and don't tie off.
Top wire slacking nett means your strutting isn't effective enough and it won't help if you've dug in the strainers. You can also tension top wire before tying off the nett to reduce the slackening.
(This assumes you have wire strainers)

 

[tepapa]

I assume this is mild steel netting too?

 

[Greenbeast]

Ye two wires work and set a couple of posts in along the line to staple top wire to. Easy to let down to if you leave the strainer on and don't tie off.
Top wire slacking nett means your strutting isn't effective enough and it won't help if you've dug in the strainers. You can also tension top wire before tying off the nett.
(This assumes you have wire strainers)

strainers knocked in, but not as far as i'd like (aforementioned summer clay)
I can probably put more tension on single wire with monkey tool attached to strainer than i can with fence clamp and rachet attached to clevis on tractor

 

[Greenbeast]

I assume this is mild steel netting too?

HT

 

[tepapa]

HT

OK, just mild tends to slacken easier.
What are you using as strut blocks?

 

[Greenbeast]

OK, just mild tends to slacken easier.
What are you using as strut blocks?

as in to stop struts moving through the ground?
chestnut post, first strut hole dug out then post hand knocked in to bottom of hole

 

[Greenbeast]

So i tried with the top and bottom wire up but hit a snag, it's not possible with my particular post knocker coming from the other side of the wire:

so back to bottom wire only

 

[simmy_bull]

So i tried with the top and bottom wire up but hit a snag, it's not possible with my particular post knocker coming from the other side of the wire:

so back to bottom wire only

For normal posts like that could you move the top of the post onto he other peg on the bash plate which would mean the top wire would be clear?