First baler on a serious budget. Whats good whats not?

Drumbroider

Member
Mixed Farmer
Thanks for all the advice.

Not looking to buy right now. It’s for next season but wanted to know what to look for I’ve the winter so if the right machine comes up I’ll grab it. Plus I like to have the winter to get it in the workshop and give her a once over.

Seems like the NH machines seem to be getting a good reputation. I don’t mind replacing the odd bearing. Do it day in day out at work so not a problem.

It will only be doing silage if the hay/Haylage has gone very very wrong and it’s desperate times.
 

egbert

Member
I had one back then,I came to the conclusion if there was any damp on top of the row and dry underneath it wouldn’t bale it,normally damp underneath and dry on top was ok unless short grass.Life is too short to be messing about with machines like that...
I was flush with compo in 2001, and replaced it before it before my patience wore thin and there was an incidence.
The new one with packing finger things was promised to be much better, and is.
For something so much the same- it's a completely different machine.

Damp stuff still sticks to it terrible mind, but at least you can crack on in anything like reasonable conditions.
 
Spotted this on facebook
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Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Mine has only done 20,000 odd. On a belt baler it matters not what it has baled, because it applies pressure rather consistently, not just when the chamber is full, like a fixed chamber baler.
For the many that don't know, the NH baler has a large bottom load-bearing roller, plus five steel rollers above the pickup that are attached to a carriage that pivots around the bottom roller. The Crop Cutter mechanism is a series of fixed knives that emerge from the bottom cast roller when required to slice the crop. The control box can be set to not slice, completely slice, or to just leave the outer layer unsliced so that the bale holds together better and is more weather resistant if hay or straw is stored outdoors. The bale size is set on the control box and so are the number of wraps, but the density is manually set by a pressure relief valve plus the setting of the large coil spring. The big spring can be set to give a relatively hard or soft centre to the bales.
 

Farmer_Joe

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
The North
I’m sure someone once told me but what’s the difference between Nh 644 648 etc?

anyone run the newer br74** models they seem cheap enough and plenty around?
 

Wombat

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
East yorks
Used to do 15,000 bales a year with a 648 then 658. As others have said pickup chains are a bit of a weak spot in big swaths. Roller bearings need an eye keeping on them, had to use my water for the day to put them out a few times. Sileage was pretty hard on them.

Moved onto one of the very first rollant 180s that was about, it was pretty rubbish for a year or so but when they finally got it going it was a step up then a vicon Rv1901, great rotor with no small feed augers.
 

Pringles

Member
Location
West Fife
You obviously don’t know many folk with New Holland balers then.

We are currently running our fourth and don’t trade them in until they have done over fifty thousand bales!!

We have never burst a belt. A few bearings and pickup reel tines and the current br7060 is the only one that has required the rear tailgate hinges beefed up, they were not broken we just had them done up as a precaution.

I would certainly be willing to claim that a New Holland baler will pee all over any Claas for operating ease and running cost!!
 
We have only run New Holland Round Balers since the early 80s when Dad bought a 840 chain and slat baler. It was almost new and bought cheap because the owner had a Claas CS combine and hated the baler because it wouldn't bale what came out of the back of the combine.
 

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