First time Direct Drilling Grass

[RJ1]

Good evening,

I'm after some advice please. First time doing this so be gentle!

Earmarked a field that is performing poorly and wanting to get away from ploughing/similar costly reseed methods. Usually put swedes/kale in as a break crop but this is an additional field we're trying to improve with a quicker turnaround.

Field is currently in grass that was probably put in some 20 years ago. Got the spade out. Compaction and not very much in the way of ryegrass.

So, field has already had a swardlifter over it.

The plan is to spray and then direct drill. However, having discussed it, given the type of sward there already (thick and somewhat unproductive grasses), we have had a discussion whether there would be a way of creating a little more tilth before drilling.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[Kevtherev]

Test the PH status before anything else

 

[Muddyroads]

Can you graze with sheep or mow it tight?

 

[jimmer]

I've done plenty, old thick swards make no difference, mine has been put in with a vaderstad

 

[jimmer]

The ones with the least amount of grass left in them get away quicker, been told its something to do with rotting grass releasing a chemical/gas type thing that slows up the emerging new seeds
Once they are away though there's no difference

 

[jimmer]

Also have a gazillion times less dock burden in the dd'd stuff
Even compared to summer break crop reseeds that have only been combi drilled shallow and had two lots of roundup
Kin docks

 

[ploughman1963]

Good evening,

I'm after some advice please. First time doing this so be gentle!

Earmarked a field that is performing poorly and wanting to get away from ploughing/similar costly reseed methods. Usually put swedes/kale in as a break crop but this is an additional field we're trying to improve with a quicker turnaround.

Field is currently in grass that was probably put in some 20 years ago. Got the spade out. Compaction and not very much in the way of ryegrass.

So, field has already had a swardlifter over it.

The plan is to spray and then direct drill. However, having discussed it, given the type of sward there already (thick and somewhat unproductive grasses), we have had a discussion whether there would be a way of creating a little more tilth before drilling.

Any advice appreciated.

I am not sure why you are wanting to create more tilth? I would stick with plan A -check pH, good dose of roundup onto a sward with a decent amount of leaf and direct drill.

 

[robs1]

Time is short now, you will need at least 4 litres of glyphosate if not more to kill off a thick sward, that will leave a lot of toxic debris breaking down and hurting tender young grass, we have improved river meadow ground by grazing very hard or dragging a scarifier over it and drilling straight into the existing grass, most soils are damp and warm new seeds will soon get established, if it doesnt work then kill the old grass off july next summer and let it die off before drilling .

 

[RJ1]

Test the PH status before anything else

Tested at 5.9, 2t lime applied earlier this year.

 

[RJ1]

I am not sure why you are wanting to create more tilth? I would stick with plan A -check pH, good dose of roundup onto a sward with a decent amount of leaf and direct drill.

Probably just a little old fashioned and worried!

 

[Bury the Trash]

The ones with the least amount of grass left in them get away quicker, been told its something to do with rotting grass releasing a chemical/gas type thing that slows up the emerging new seeds
Once they are away though there's no difference

the decaying veg, causes Acidity , especially a problem on heavier ground in wetter conditions.

rotavating etc and leaving garbage on the surface can create the same problem, its not just a direct drilling thing.

one way to avoid it is to bury the trash

 

[ploughman1963]

the decaying veg, causes Acidity , especially a problem on heavier ground in wetter conditions.

rotavating etc and leaving garbage on the surface can create the same problem, its not just a direct drilling thing.

one way to avoid it is to bury the trash

I agree, drill the grass seeds whilst the sprayed off grass is still green and the seedlings will be up and away before this situation occurs

 

[RJ1]

I agree, drill the grass seeds whilst the sprayed off grass is still green and the seedlings will be up and away before this situation occurs

So with regard to timing then, if I sprayed today and gotthe contractor in on Monday, would that be right?

 

[milkloss]

I would have limed it immediately prior to drilling in a dead old sward to avoid decaying acidity issues.

 

[RJ1]

I would have limed it immediately prior to drilling in a dead old sward to avoid decaying acidity issues.

Can still do this and might well do.

 

[ploughman1963]

The other thing we have done to counteract the effects cited above is put prilled lime/calcifert down the spout with the seed to raise the ph in the immediate vicinty of the seeds.

 

[Limcrazy]

Spray it a day or 2 after it's sown.

 

[Bury the Trash]

And is the cost of using the swardlifter not counted? Nor the cost of the slug pellets ? I would've only put 30cwt of lime on the ploughing as well not 2t. , it'll. Need more in future anyway.

and well , reseeding is not cheap .

 

[aidan]

I agree, drill the grass seeds whilst the sprayed off grass is still green and the seedlings will be up and away before this situation occurs

Spray it a day or 2 after it's sown.

this is one I dont get spraying after seed is sown, will the spray not kill the freshly sown seed

 

[ploughman1963]

Spray will kill the living grass - wont affect the seed until it has germinated and developed a shoot 5-8 days? With one big caveat - I have been told of this being done in a heavy crop of grass and the new seedlings coming up through touching dead grass which still has glyphosate on it and the seedlings being killed - heard of it - not seen it myself.