Fitting air con to a 7810 series2

digger don

Member
Location
wales
How much of a job would it be to put aircon on my series2 7810? Anyone done it before? Guess there must be brakers around with all the bits to sell from a series3.
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
On a 66/76/78-10 the condenser fitment in front of the Rad, above the hyd cooler is a pretty tight fit. That said, AMA will do you the whole kit or just the front end, and various parts thereof, as well as the pipes and hoses.

Bear in mind they were all designed as R12 systems with the restricted condenser size potential, so don't expect to create the Antarctic in the cab with a R134a
 
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digger don

Member
Location
wales
On a 66/76/78-10 the condenser fitment in front of the Rad, above the hyd cooler is a pretty tight fit. That said, AMA will do you the whole kit or just the front end, and various parts thereof, as well as the pipes and hoses.

Bear in mind they were all designed as R12 systems with the restricted condenser size potential, so don't expect to create the Antarctic in the cab with a R134a
Any thing would be betrer than nothing in the summer! Haha! I have a serise3 as well who is ama?
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Different brand i know, but shoehorned an aircon system onto our 1594 for about £1000 quid, using a combination of second hand and off the shelf generic new parts..works well

worked even better when i realised if i pulled one of the dash vents out there is enough room to fit a small chocolate bar down the hole, then refit the vent and close it....one nicely chilled bar of chocolate at dinnertime!!!
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Bear in mind that R134A systems run at a lot higher pressure than the old R34 gas systems, and this can sometimes cause older evaporators and condensors to leak, as they were never really designed for the pressures the modern 2environmentally friendly" 134a gas has to work at
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Despite the cost, I would source a complete kit or as close as you can a complete kit from AMA or AP-air. You'll need specific parts like the hard lines, the condenser, and drier which are specific to the tractor and SQ cab. Softlines made to suit and quik couplers off the shelf. Compressor bracket. A new exp valve since its not worth messing with old ones. Wiring you can do yourself. High and Low pressure switches are a tenner each.

You;ll be pulling the cab roof and top apart , so ensure the blower motor is fit and the heater valve is closing 100%. Anything doubtful replace it. Clean the heater core with the power washer and fit new filters. You'll be amazed at the amount of crap up there.

The drier and lines are a pig to fit!!

Get it nitrogen charged first.
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Despite the cost, I would source a complete kit or as close as you can a complete kit from AMA or AP-air. You'll need specific parts like the hard lines, the condenser, and drier which are specific to the tractor and SQ cab. Softlines made to suit and quik couplers off the shelf. Compressor bracket. A new exp valve since its not worth messing with old ones. Wiring you can do yourself. High and Low pressure switches are a tenner each.

You;ll be pulling the cab roof and top apart , so ensure the blower motor is fit and the heater valve is closing 100%. Anything doubtful replace it. Clean the heater core with the power washer and fit new filters. You'll be amazed at the amount of crap up there.

The drier and lines are a pig to fit!!

Get it nitrogen charged first.


When we done ours we didnt bother with steel pipes. Flexi-piped the lot, front to back, made condensor fit on sliding rails to aid cleaning condensor, and piped it in such a way that the evaporator was also on a slotted bracket and can be removed from the front bulkhead of the cab without disconnecting any pipework should you need to split the tractor or lift cab at a later date
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Nowt wrong with good quality barrier pipe, just the bulk of it and bending restrictions, which under a 76/7810 bonnet is a problem!! Compressor and lines are very close to the exhaust also. On a TW - not an issue...
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Nowt wrong with good quality barrier pipe, just the bulk of it and bending restrictions, which under a 76/7810 bonnet is a problem!! Compressor and lines are very close to the exhaust also. On a TW - not an issue...


Now you mention it...7810 i used to deal with had a huge loop of flexi pipe sticking out the side of the bonnet right where the compressor was mounted, it didnt look much of a job

Having looked at the parts book for ours we decided on a different route to the original, it meant about an extra meter of pipe, but that allows enough slack to remove either the condensor, pump or evaporator without undoing any connections. Bloke from the other side of Kings Lynn came and fitted it up, think the company was called Fen-air
 

Sussex Martin

Member
Location
Burham Kent
On a 66/76/78-10 the condenser fitment in front of the Rad, above the hyd cooler is a pretty tight fit. That said, AMA will do you the whole kit or just the front end, and various parts thereof, as well as the pipes and hoses.

Bear in mind they were all designed as R12 systems with the restricted condenser size potential, so don't expect to create the Antarctic in the cab with a R134a
On my 7710 I cannot have the air con on full blast as it will freeze you to the seat :cool:.
 

db9go

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Buckinghamshire
You can top up an r12 with R134 and it works as good as any.
All the pundits say it does not work have been proved wrong.
If you work on the principle that the R12 system is f**k you have nothing to loose so putting R134 in and it works.
 
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Hesston4860s

Member
Location
Nr Lincoln
I have 2 JD's which are R12 systems, both where recharged with R134a a long time ago and both work absolutely fine. Both are just as cold as they where on R12, we didn't change any pipes,seals or oil like "they" say you "have" to do.
 
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