On welger balers that bar used to be bolted to the drawbar,on the last 3 I’ve had it’s been in the chamber all the time,never taken it out.The Kuhn must be slightly different design if you can’t use it for grass.
Fixed Chamber Roller Balers for baling straw?
- Thread starter jett
- Start date
- Location
- Hampshire
Back in the day we baled straw with a Welger RP15 It was hopeless on dry straw, especially if it had been sprayed with roundup. We finished up baling at 4 in the morning until the sun got up, then again in the evening until the early hours. We did design a tank and dribble bar on the front of the tractor to put mollases onto the straw to bind it, but only managed to attract all the wasps in Hampshire!
- Location
- Cumbria
The problems with dry straw and fixed chamber roller balers can be broken down into three.
1) The straw starts to feed then stops. This is when it hits the back of the chamber and refuses to climb and rotate.
This can be improved by raising the front of the baler as high as possible using the drawbar adjustment, this alters the internal profile, and gives the bottom rollers a slight fall to the rear, this helps to clear the infeed.
2) The straw starts to turn in the chamber, but falls onto the incoming straw, slowing and stopping the feed. This is where a ' bar ' or 'flap ' is installed below the top roller on the intake to stop the rotating straw falling onto the incoming feed.
3) The bale is formed and once any pressure is applied the bale stops turning.
Many different ways to make the feeding rollers more aggressive and grippy has been tried by various manufacturers, gluing sand to the rollers, adding belts, speeding the feeding rollers up etc.
At the end of day it's horses for courses, rollers are better in green and lower dm material, belts are better in high dm material.
If you have both, then favour the type of baler that is going to bale the most of either type of crop.
Chain and slat suits both, however not ideal if only used in heavy wet grass.
1) The straw starts to feed then stops. This is when it hits the back of the chamber and refuses to climb and rotate.
This can be improved by raising the front of the baler as high as possible using the drawbar adjustment, this alters the internal profile, and gives the bottom rollers a slight fall to the rear, this helps to clear the infeed.
2) The straw starts to turn in the chamber, but falls onto the incoming straw, slowing and stopping the feed. This is where a ' bar ' or 'flap ' is installed below the top roller on the intake to stop the rotating straw falling onto the incoming feed.
3) The bale is formed and once any pressure is applied the bale stops turning.
Many different ways to make the feeding rollers more aggressive and grippy has been tried by various manufacturers, gluing sand to the rollers, adding belts, speeding the feeding rollers up etc.
At the end of day it's horses for courses, rollers are better in green and lower dm material, belts are better in high dm material.
If you have both, then favour the type of baler that is going to bale the most of either type of crop.
Chain and slat suits both, however not ideal if only used in heavy wet grass.
Would that be at bryson tractors?View attachment 1014006
View attachment 1014011
Getting on very good with a roller in straw! Changed from a Krone belt and slat to the Kuhn roller this summer.
Bales of spring barley 1.35m diameter averaged over 270kg (all trailer loads across weighbridge)
Mind, the Kuhn has 18 rollers, no blanking plates, and a very good straw bar insert for above the intake throat. They've really thought about how to make it work in straw. Not as fast as the Krone, and needs much more net, but I can live with it especially as the bales are heavier, and it's far superior baling grass.
Bales from the Kuhn were better than the McHale and welgar demos, and I've nightmares when remembering trying to get bales to turn in a Deere 578
If you're predominantly baling straw, I would recommend belts or belt and slat as already posted though.......I also know of a very good used Krone comprima xc150 that's still for sale at my local Kuhn dealer.....
We have a JD441m which has been great in our small acreage of barley straw. I was told the pick up was from Kuhn and apparently that is good.
Although described as fixed chamber, it can be adjusted on the monitor to make a bale bigger than 4ft which is useful if baling for own use.
Although described as fixed chamber, it can be adjusted on the monitor to make a bale bigger than 4ft which is useful if baling for own use.
Chips
Member
- Location
- Shropshire
I've got an old 355rc claas and never failed to bale straw, it's got the top three rollers that lower down into the chamber to apply pressure to the bale before it's full size. Good all round simple baler but doesn't make the prettiest bales in wet grass although gets some big weights in them.
Next baler would probably be the KUHN with the bale wrap instead of net applicator making for tighter bales ,less wrap needed and no more silage tangled up net wrap to dispose off .
Next baler would probably be the KUHN with the bale wrap instead of net applicator making for tighter bales ,less wrap needed and no more silage tangled up net wrap to dispose off .
If its straw only then a belt baler is hard to beat, the old John deere 550s and the evolutions were very good machines, 550, 580, 590, 582, 592.
We had a 550 followed by a 590. We used to aim to average a bale a minute with the 590 over a day and that was picking up a 14ft bout only, once the bale began to roll or even once the packers got hold of the straw if you could sit on the seat the baler would take it in, it was an animal of a machine.
We had a 550 followed by a 590. We used to aim to average a bale a minute with the 590 over a day and that was picking up a 14ft bout only, once the bale began to roll or even once the packers got hold of the straw if you could sit on the seat the baler would take it in, it was an animal of a machine.
- Location
- East Sussex
Still got a 550 and you're right, it is an animal when going right. A bit of a c4nt if it's not. The two extremes that's for sure.
did you not paint the roller and put that grit stuff on they used to do to make rollers grip more
We never really had any issues with ours, used to make sure the belts were the correct lengths and equal lengths and oil the chains every night. then as long as you had the door shut before you started into the bout you were fine.
- Location
- Cumbria
- Location
- Hampshire
Yes, did that and tried welding thin bars on them.
- Location
- Owaka, New Zealand
+1 for the 435, great balers those
in their day was nowt else
could of done smalls
still think soft middles breathe a bit
best job was sleeving a 5 ft wide bsler down to 4.ft 6 good bales then 6ft x 4 ft 6