flue going through eves

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
I have a balanced flue from a gas stove ( Woodburner lookalike ) to go into my ceiling then out through the eves.
It will pass close to flammable materials, wood and other insulation.
Is there any product we can put round the flue to prevent any danger from over heating.
Being a balanced flue obviously the outer skin temperature should not get that high but the specs say no closer than 25mm to combustible materials.
some suggest 50mm
The flue is 150mm diameter.
Balanced flues are twin skin , but unlike many woodburner flues do not have an insulation layer in them
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Definitely not to HTAS regs, I wouldn't.
HTAS does not cover this flue as it is a natural gas stove.
would have liked a small woodburner, but there was no possibility of putting a chimney above this consevatory.
the flue will be just like you very often see on on gas boilers, just poking through the wall, but we need to raise it above the windows as the stub wall is not high enough to cut through
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
What do the manufacturers instructions specify?
It just says there must be a gap of 25- 50 mm from any combustible material.
this means we have a hole to fill with something non combustible.
there are foam products sold for sound deadening in sheets which are promoted as non combustible, wondered if anyone had used such a thing. Years ago you would have wrapped it in asbestos, but my instinct tells me this is no longer allowed ;)
 

pettsy

Member
Location
Derbyshire
I think it might be part J of building regulations that will give you some idea of clearances. You can get fire stop plates to use where it passes through floor/ceiling.
 

anzani

Member
The 'insulation' is the fresh air within the flue! ,which flows rapidly when the stove is lit.
If you are vertically exiting through a plasterboard ceiling, use a pair of firestop plates, which will allow air seepage and cooling to the (not very warm)outer concentric pipe. In the event of a fire(elsewhere in the house) these will seal off the opening to 'fire-stop' at a critical temperature.
The flue will need to be supported in the roof void to seperate from timbers by the indicated 2". The flue should then be passed through a suitable roof flashing, to exceed the height above the roof covering. (600mm for tile) . A storm collar should be fitted. The special terminal segregates the gases and prevents the entrance of rainfall , wildlife, debris etc.
There will be instructions provided regarding any bends, normally no more than 2 are allowed.
See:www.poujoulat.co.uk/solutions/residential-applications/chimney-systems-for-residential-applications/concentric-flue-systems-for-domestic-boilers/duogas

This is preferably done by a suitably qualified Gas-Safe engineer, who will register his certification.
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
The 'insulation' is the fresh air within the flue! ,which flows rapidly when the stove is lit.
If you are vertically exiting through a plasterboard ceiling, use a pair of firestop plates, which will allow air seepage and cooling to the (not very warm)outer concentric pipe. In the event of a fire(elsewhere in the house) these will seal off the opening to 'fire-stop' at a critical temperature.
The flue will need to be supported in the roof void to seperate from timbers by the indicated 2". The flue should then be passed through a suitable roof flashing, to exceed the height above the roof covering. (600mm for tile) . A storm collar should be fitted. The special terminal segregates the gases and prevents the entrance of rainfall , wildlife, debris etc.
There will be instructions provided regarding any bends, normally no more than 2 are allowed.
See:www.poujoulat.co.uk/solutions/residential-applications/chimney-systems-for-residential-applications/concentric-flue-systems-for-domestic-boilers/duogas

This is preferably done by a suitably qualified Gas-Safe engineer, who will register his certification.
We are not looking to put the flue straight up as we have had a cast in place fibre glass roof and do not want to damage the integrity.
the roof is composed of 12 inch timbers with 4 inches of insulation over and a composite blanked / vapour blanket under.
this means we can take the flue up with a 90 degree bend and out the side .
there are no issues with structure as the timber to cut through is not load bearing
hopefully a picture of the structure
C1145627-3A1F-4864-B330-F6A928E10C39.jpeg
C1145627-3A1F-4864-B330-F6A928E10C39.jpeg
 

anzani

Member
Oh, now I understand!
Rockwool to wrap, and steel closure trim to stop the sparrows. Terminal 500 mm from combustibles, timber ,rain water plastics and glazing. Wire guard if below 2 metres above ground level should do .Which stove is it?
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Oh, now I understand!
Rockwool to wrap, and steel closure trim to stop the sparrows. Terminal 500 mm from combustibles, timber ,rain water plastics and glazing. Wire guard if below 2 metres above ground level should do .Which stove is it?
Thanks just what I need
the job will be done by a qualified gas engineer, but he was a bit fazed by this one.
we have been looking at 3stoves
the Mendip ashcott gas
gazco vogue midi T
and the woodwarm pheonix 5

we know we need about 4 kw but really are only looking for a little background heat
 

Whits

Member
Just a comment on the 3 stoves you’ve looked at, go with the Woodwarm they are the best both in quality and and customer service. We’ve been selling their stoves for over 40 years. Their gas stove is one of the only ones that is fully remote controlled.
 

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