Ford 3 Cylinder in Sanderson Forklift - Water in Sump

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
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got my budget boroscope in
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
The question is, after cleaning, what will seal that porous cavity best?
Epoxy “liquid metal”, or some sort of sealer paint?
It needs to stay stuck on and retain a bit of flexibility, and cope with heat and antifreeze. Gravity is on my side as whatever is applied will sit in the cavity while it sets.
 

ACEngineering

Member
Location
Oxon
@DrWazzock a full windscreen bonding kit with primers is about 20 to 25 quid on ebay.

Tiger seal is basically same as windscreen PU bonder! Or panel bonder.

Any epoxy wont stick that well and crack off as too rigid in my opinion.

Or thinking about it you can get special paint for engine castings and in side gearboxes to stop sweeps and leaks though pores and cracks in aluminium! My mate did the inside of a aluminium crank case on a 100 year old french car not long ago.

I think he bought it from frost?

Looks abit like red oxide imo but it's not.

Quite thin and you build it up in layers. Think he did 3 coats?
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
@DrWazzock this was it. Problem is you would need to get the area spotlessly clean and free of corrosion.?‍♂️

I thought that showed promise. Thin enough to get into cracks and pores. I have had some success with SAS liquid metal on grey Ferguson blocks but surface prep was easier with liners out of block.
Almost tempted to try a good lathering of Hammerite.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Windscreen bonder cleaner first then the black primer paint. Then tiger seal?

Tiger seal on it's own wont get in the crack but the black primer paint will and will then set?

I doubt tiger seal will stick well enough on it's own and dont rate its chances much in oil or antifreeze imo long term?
Myself and a mate has done 2 engines, and tiger seal dose work, as we did that and it worked, I did say earlier to clean with brake cleaner and compressed air
And it's fine with antifreeze
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
52E00B87-771B-4AEC-B26E-A378756CEE11.jpeg479D1633-0DAD-4570-92E1-962EC33AE423.jpeg71D04BB6-CD2E-49A8-A152-D3BF65378088.jpegDE8F10E0-9C56-45F6-8BB4-EDCC56B53507.jpeg
Fitted a longer shaft on my dremel and reached down into the block and cleaned up the porous area with a deburring bit. Finally pudged in some SAS liquid metal 380. A bit messy, not as neat as I’d like, but I think it’s covered the suspect area. It’s held hot water for two hours but not pressurised. Time will tell.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Got it all back together at last. Warmed it up and gave it a run. Put some k seal in for good measure. Retorqued head bolts and set up valve clearances. She runs well enough though the pistons are a bit blowy. Not lost any coolant into the sump after 2 days now. Fingers crossed it will hold for a bit and load another few thousand tons. Not bad for a 45 year old machine.
 

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