David the spud man
Member
HI I'M CURRENTLY in the process of restoring a Ford 6600 classic cab type I will post photos along the way
FORD 6600 RESTORATION
- Thread starter David the spud man
- Start date
David the spud man
Member
REStracTORATION
Member
Press/puller hammer n chisel but they are tight
Or
Naker it by removing rollers then heat inner race up an knock it off
Or
Naker it by removing rollers then heat inner race up an knock it off
Mursal
Member
Going to use it again, use pullers or a press.
Going to replace, run of weld on the inner part might just give you enough heat to make it loose enough to hammer off.
Do two runs opposing each other in quick succession, dont hang about with the hammer ...............
Do a dry run first before you heat .........
Going to replace, run of weld on the inner part might just give you enough heat to make it loose enough to hammer off.
Do two runs opposing each other in quick succession, dont hang about with the hammer ...............
Do a dry run first before you heat .........
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David the spud man
Member
Couldn't find the 580
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
just nick ot through with a cutting disc laid on its side, grind the rest to nearly through, try not to mark the shaft, when nearly through, give it a bat with a good hammer and chisels, once split it will be easier to get off, seen me cut them off with the gas, but need a good nozzle and be quick, and a clean cut, and still not mark the shaft
multi power
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
I weld around them, never failed me yet
David the spud man
Member
Mursal
Member
Yes as its mated to the new bearing.
If you can get your hands on a welder, put a run around the inner surface of the "sleeve"
Leave it upside down and it will fallout as it heats up, cools down.
Failing that a slide hammer might get in behind it?
Can you get a long bar in from the other end, usually there will be a small bit missing so you can hit the back of the "sleeve"
But you have all the hard work done with the bearing off the shaft ............
Small bit of heat from a heat gun or the like (something mild) on the bearing so it falls onto the shaft, rather than fighting with a hammer. Have the shaft surface spotless with sandpaper ......
A smear of grease on the rollers when your putting it back, just to keep things right until the oil gets round.
If you can get your hands on a welder, put a run around the inner surface of the "sleeve"
Leave it upside down and it will fallout as it heats up, cools down.
Failing that a slide hammer might get in behind it?
Can you get a long bar in from the other end, usually there will be a small bit missing so you can hit the back of the "sleeve"
But you have all the hard work done with the bearing off the shaft ............
Small bit of heat from a heat gun or the like (something mild) on the bearing so it falls onto the shaft, rather than fighting with a hammer. Have the shaft surface spotless with sandpaper ......
A smear of grease on the rollers when your putting it back, just to keep things right until the oil gets round.
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David the spud man
Member
David the spud man
Member
- Location
- Buckinghamshire
Have you had it apart as the nuts holding the cover down do not look right and it should not go below the disc
- Location
- North West Wales
Somethings not right there!!! Is the locking plate still on the bolt head that holds the halfshaft in? The stub shaft usually rest against the plate. Seen them ‘lost’ during assembling and finding their way through the epicyclics when driving off resulting in burst trumpet housings!!!
- Location
- Buckinghamshire
- Location
- Buckinghamshire
No 23 rest against no 26 which is the locking plate for the three bolts that hold no 15
on to the half shaft
on to the half shaft
SuperTwo
Member
- Location
- Leinster, Ireland
The best money youll spend right now is on a workshop manual. It will give you detailed instructions on how to fix everything.