Hello, I have a Ford 8240 that will not move at all when cold. Once the tractor is warmed up for say about 15 or so minutes it will move but not in all gears. I am also getting a red light for low transmission lubricating pressure on the dash. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Also, the hydraulic lift arms will not work if the clutch is not pushed down.
Ford 8240 Quad Mod will not Move at all when cold
- Thread starter ItzBigLivz
- Start date
- Location
- Lorette Manitoba
You’ll need to get some gauges on the transmission in the right places and see what wrong. Best off getting a tech out that knows. Might be a simple sensor not letting it go in gear or pressure relief valve stuck open. Could pull the hydraulic filter off and check for shavings while you wait for a tech to come. If it’s low pressure that filter may be starving the pump. Did this happen all of a sudden or slowly getting worse. With the arms not lifting until clutch is down could be short oil supply to the system or maybe an electronic f up
Thank you for the replay and advice. I just had some gauges on there this evening. The low pressure lube has the correct pressure coming from the return power steering circuit. The high pressure circuit for the hydraulic remotes and arms also had good pressure. I will have to check the filters still. I also need to check the pressure in the low pressure circuit that runs the clutches but I did not have the correct size fitting. This all came about when one day the headlights would not turn off and the only way they will go off is to remove the wire connector on the left side of the dash Even if this connector is plugged back in the problem is still in place. This is the reason I am leaning to the electronic side of things. I wanted to make sure all basics with the hydraulic circuit were working first though since those are a little easier (not easy though) to diagnose. The other thing that gets me is there are no error codes. Only have errors when we try to do a clutch calibration. Which will say the pressure was too high to engage the clutches. I have heard to verify this with gauges though so that's what I am in the process of doing. I will keep this thread updated with my findings. Any help/advice is appreciated.
Captain Sensible
Member
- Location
- mid-Norfolk
Headlights not turning off??? Even when the switch is turned off??? 
That sounds like serious electronic issues. Start at the battery & check everything up to & including the fuse/relay box & the gang plugs. You've got some serious Earth Loops in there somewhere.
That sounds like serious electronic issues. Start at the battery & check everything up to & including the fuse/relay box & the gang plugs. You've got some serious Earth Loops in there somewhere.So a little update. We have verified all electrical connections to the transmission controls are in fact working and all seem to be good. We did a pressure check on the clutches and incoming low pressure circuit. When we are at standby and no gears engaged we see the approx. 280 PSI. When we engage a gear and let the clutch up we lose pressure and it will math to the corresponding clutches. The clutches are exact opposite of each other. For instance C1 and C3 will read 180 and 220 and C2 an d C4 will read 220 and 180. They all seem to be reading the same pressures just opposite so I really do not think it is a clutch issue. We just removed the control valve cover and inspected all the valves in spools and we did not see anything alarming as of yet. The lube proportional valve spool is also in good condition and intact. The o-rings are hard but they are all in tact. We are planning on opening up the top cover through the floor in the cab. Anyone else have any suggestions? Thank you.
I had no errors when the clutch packs on 1 and 3 were shagged
Hello everyone, just a little update on our progress. We installed everything back together with new orings/seals. Fired the tractor up and we had a little higher pressure on the clutches but not high enough according to the specifications. I finally convinced my dad to remove all PWM solenoids but one so we could check pressure on that specific clutch when no other clutches were receiving oil. On C3 and C4 we got the full approx. 260 psi coming from the regulator valve. We then tested C1 and C2 and we could only achieve about 140. We though maybe a PWM valve may have gone bad so we switched them and had no better results. So we are looking in to the clutch packs and pistons now on C1/C2.
Couple of questions
- will the transmission complete a calibration?
- when it has warmed up, does the tractor drive normally ?
if pressure testing, there are ports for each clutch pack on the trans side cover (rh side, behind battery).
clutches C1 & C2 are lock up clutches and so will be fed with full pressure as soon as the dump switch on pedal operates.
clutches C3 & C4 are feathering clutches and so pressure ramps up the higher the pedal is lifted.
Clutches used in each gear are:
1st = C2 / C4
2nd = C2 / C3
3rd = C1 / C4
4th = C1 / C3
- will the transmission complete a calibration?
- when it has warmed up, does the tractor drive normally ?
if pressure testing, there are ports for each clutch pack on the trans side cover (rh side, behind battery).
clutches C1 & C2 are lock up clutches and so will be fed with full pressure as soon as the dump switch on pedal operates.
clutches C3 & C4 are feathering clutches and so pressure ramps up the higher the pedal is lifted.
Clutches used in each gear are:
1st = C2 / C4
2nd = C2 / C3
3rd = C1 / C4
4th = C1 / C3
No it will not complete a calibration.
When this first started happening yes it would, but then it came to a point that it would not.
Yes I agree. We are getting and instant approx 8 volts on c1 and c2 when clutch pedal is just lifted off and a gradually up to 8 volts on c3/4 when called upon.
When this first started happening yes it would, but then it came to a point that it would not.
Yes I agree. We are getting and instant approx 8 volts on c1 and c2 when clutch pedal is just lifted off and a gradually up to 8 volts on c3/4 when called upon.
Not read all the thread , mine would also not calibrate , clutch packs were shagged
We are only receiving about 140 PSI(approx. 280 Is spec) on c1 and c2 when activated. When c3/c4 or activated we receive the full approx. 280 psi. Yes, that what we are inspecting next. Thank you for the replies thus far all. I will keep this thread updated with our findings.
Same as mine , had it in bits in 2 hours
Okay thanks. That makes me feel better that we are on the right track. Was resisting the urge to cave and go to the clutches because of the tear down, but gotta do what we gotta do.
Hello everyone. A little update: The tractor is all apart. We have diagnosed the issues to be bad clutch packs on C1 and C2 and the seals are toast. Question, do any of you have experience with aftermarket clutch packs? The friction plates and the pressure plates? They are considerably cheaper than from the NH Dealership. $30 vs approx. $10.
Thanks,
-Michael
Thanks,
-Michael
Not worth the grief imo ,
Okay thank you. Just going to get the OEM ones from the dealership. Thanks again everyone for your help, thus far.