Alternator output may be dodgy......Ah - should have mentioned that I thought the wiring looked iffy already - so I drilled a hole in the round access plate near the solenoid and fitted a completely separate lead back to the plug that was connected to that bit of wiring.
I'll find a charged battery and make a new 12v supply completely separate from the tractor to power the coil and see if it stays working - the electrics on the tractor do seem very dodge!
Well to rule out alternator, tried a temp wire loom direct from battery terminals - fuse - switch - solenoid
So nothing to check engine running etc....
He went and tried it on his mower, seemed ok, but then just dropped out again....
I'm baffled, any more ideas?
Worth a try. If it is an oil pressure problem would it not then slip and then kick back in when the load is off? Soon knacker the clutch plates in that situation. I guess pressure testing next?Yep - no relay, wires direct from positive and negative terminal on the battery.
Stood still in my yard, switches on and off fine - appears to be perfect, but when the owner goes and tries it, he says it just jumps out again...??????
I might even have to find a charged battery and stick it in the cab, see if there is some odd short/drop in voltage. BUT I'm starting to think its an oil pressure/flow problem somewhere
changed the pressure switch this morning but made no difference. Valve due next week so we'll see if that makes a difference.Change the bypass valve if there's no oil going through,then the pressure switch if things are no different. Then pressure gauge on the test ports to see whats happening...........
Currently have an l reg 5640 SL white top 2wd to try from a dealer. Seems in very good nick for her age, what should I be looking out for?
So far, having given it a good run, the hour clock doesn't work (but I know it's a local tractor, from a good home, and it doesn't feel like it's done high hours for its age- clock showing 5k)
I've also found using the button on the shuttle brings up an error- is this a common fault or something to walk away from?
Anything else I should be looking out for?
Just an update on this. On the recommendation of an ex NH UK service manager that I know he suggested changing the gasket on the transmission control block. Did this the same time as the bypass valve. I knew when I saw the old gasket that it wasn't the problem. Anyhow went at it again one evening and pulled the transmission oil pressure switch again. Took the wire off the solenoid in the injector pump and gave it a few turns on the starter and put back in the old switch. I had noticed something seemed to come out of the switch when I gave it a tap. Anyhow started up and light went out. Went for a drive and it came on again just on returning home. Repeated the procedure and it went out again. All seems to be fine since. It may come on for a few seconds an odd time but this seems to be normal for them. Don't know if the new switch I originally put in is the wrong one or just a duff one.changed the pressure switch this morning but made no difference. Valve due next week so we'll see if that makes a difference.
Bit the bullet and went for this. 2 wheel drive with a decent cab, in very nice condition, with a full set of weights- a cracking little tractor. The tractor spent the first day on the topper, turning on a six pence. She then spent her first night sat on her belly in a wet patch, waiting for a pull out....
No good without pictures