Free Flow Return on MF575

[Benr]

Just had a look and there is a return pipe to the bottom left side. I have attached the post driver to this and it still doesn't drop as quickly as when it is on our mx110.
Forgive my terminology but can I remove the tip from the pipe on the post driver and change the fitting on the tractor so the oil can run straight back into the return pipe? If so will this make much difference?
Thanks

 

[multi power]

two places to return oil

 

[Mursal]

If you take the pipe off and sit it into the filler cap/hole, is it fast enough for you? You might need to tie it (or hold it) in place to test.
If so you will have to choose make the inlet to the back end large enough to keep the flow the same.
If not you will have to look at the return line and see why its not as fast as the other tractor.

Did I not mention the filler plug to you before?
Forgive me, I must have been talking to myself, again ................

 

[Benr]

It's not quite that simple as the filler is in the cab between the gears so the pipe won't reach!

 

[Mursal]

Well you will have to extend the pipe to test, to see if the restriction is in the pipe or the drilling going into the back end.
Its never easy ..........

 

[Fievel Farmanimal]

When there is probably fast couplers in use now, they have pins that prevent oil from leaking when the hose is taken off. These pins dont always work right and can shut down the flow when springs inside couplers are old and tired. So it's often useful to try change fast couplers or connect without them.

 

[two-cylinder]

filler cap is in cab next to gear levers. pipe it into one of the drain plugs. that way it will be below the oil

We have one on our 265 plumbed into the rear drain plug.
It was fitted to return the oil when using the hydraulically driven top flail on a Whitsed potato harvester, it ensured the warm oil had an unrestricted path back to the gearbox.

 

[j6891]

Hoping to use my 575 to run a bale wrapper. Would one of these be a free flow return? Take it I can get an adaptor for the electrical socket to the 3 pin power socket for counter?

 

[MF-ANDY]

Without seeing where those connectors go to impossible to say if any are a free flow return. If you are only running a wrapper with low engine revs returning through a spool valve if it has one will be fine. The only way you will get power from that socket is to use pin 3 as negative and pin 5 or 7 for positive with your side lights on. Much better to run a feed from the starter or battery

 

[j6891]

Without seeing where those connectors go to impossible to say if any are a free flow return. If you are only running a wrapper with low engine revs returning through a spool valve if it has one will be fine. The only way you will get power from that socket is to use pin 3 as negative and pin 5 or 7 for positive with your side lights on. Much better to run a feed from the starter or battery

Good advice here Andy. Any advice help for fitting or on what parts I'd need. Doesn't seem to be many kits to do this to connect to battery. Would have thought it was a common enough issue to add more sockets for different screens etc you see in cabs these days

 

[Mur Huwcun]

This is the kind you need for electrical power but it would be cheaper for you to source a heavy twin core flexi cable and a cobo plug. Connect direct to battery with a fuse as close as possible to the positive terminal and run cable to desired position in cab or rear end.

http://gb.sparex.com/auxiliary-equipment-power-cable-51976.html#

 

[MF-ANDY]

just get a length of twin wire cable, an inline fuse holder with a 30amp fuse, a female version of the plug on your wrapper and some plastic ties.