Front wheel hubs breaking

[Lincsman]

Has it always been the same actual fitter who has undertaken the repairs and has he treated himself to an impact gun with a ridiculous amount of torque ?
Doubtful but ……

Wouldnt that just strip threads or snap bolts?

 

[balerman]

My guess would be a cheaper range tractor fromCNH,TD5050 or equivalent.But shouldn’t fail like that,warped wheel dishes maybe.

 

[Fendtbro]

I just think you've been unlucky to buy a tractor with a really weak front axle. Fixing it is not going to solve the problem.
My loader tractor is an old JD6400, the ZF axle doesn't look particularly strong, has had serious abuse, and never touched , except for changing worn out steering joints. And welding cracked wheel rims.
Looks like you will have to change the tractor.

I'm with you.. it's just a rubbish weak axle, the zf on jd's and fendt are the best and are very robust.. change the tractor for jd I'd say.

 

[Pistonbroke]

I'm with you.. it's just a rubbish weak axle, the zf on jd's and fendt are the best and are very robust.. change the tractor for jd I'd say.

Could be Chinese like a Sumtingwong or a Holeefuk

 

[balerman]

I'm with you.. it's just a rubbish weak axle, the zf on jd's and fendt are the best and are very robust.. change the tractor for jd I'd say.

Fendt may be stronger,but ive known plenty of JD rear wheels to break up.Must be something wrong to keep breaking like that.

 

[Courier]

Fendt may be stronger,but ive known plenty of JD rear wheels to break up.Must be something wrong to keep breaking like that.

Only axle I’ve had break was on a JD 2850

 

[Dave W]

I'm with you.. it's just a rubbish weak axle, the zf on jd's and fendt are the best and are very robust.. change the tractor for jd I'd say.

Is that a serious answer?
That hub is breaking in a way no one will have seen before. And it's done it 3 times. There's a major underlying reason why it's doing it.
No way on Earth should that hub break like that in that way regardless how weak it is

 

[Kevtherev]

I’m with Dave W on the rim being faulty and side loading the casting somehow but without more pictures etc it’s hard to make a difinitive diagnosis!!

 

[betweenthelines]

Wouldnt that just strip threads or snap bolts?

No, overtorqueing stretches the threads so the wheel is not sitting tight/snug on the hub.

If this happens on a truck the wheelnuts work loose and you see the wheel overtaking you.

On a slow moving vehicle the flexing of the wheel may well overstress the hub.

 

[Fendtbro]

Is that a serious answer?
That hub is breaking in a way no one will have seen before. And it's done it 3 times. There's a major underlying reason why it's doing it.
No way on Earth should that hub break like that in that way regardless how weak

The only thing I can think of is the pcd is drilled wrong, forcing the studs out. But I will only buy tractors with German axles, zf or Mercedes.. I'm done with soft carraro rubbish breaking up and leaking oil. But then my machines are all approaching 20k hours each and expected to do that again.

 

[Chuckie]

I'm with you.. it's just a rubbish weak axle, the zf on jd's and fendt are the best and are very robust.. change the tractor for jd I'd say.

Might be wrong, but I think jd and fendt stopped using zf axles years ago?

 

[Fendtbro]

Might be wrong, but I think jd and fendt stopped using zf axles years ago?

Surely not.. jd still do, fendt bound to still. Not sure about the really big tractors though.

 

[kill]

My guess would be a cheaper range tractor fromCNH,TD5050 or equivalent.But shouldn’t fail like that,warped wheel dishes maybe.

That the same as a Farmall 75c as a local farm had one and had similar happen to the op with a loader and shear grab multiple times. Became expensive and only cure was to swap for a larger model tractor . The tractor (75c) also had some really tiny front wheels so the tyres had to be blown up to rather high pressures as meant there was very little bounce for a 4wd that may not have helped

 

[timmyboy]

That's nothing to do with overloading or tracking or any of that.
I'll offer a theory. The rim isn't sitting on the hub right and it's not properly up to the stud flange. So as you tighten the wheel nuts it's flexing the flange and cracking it

Would I be wrong in saying that when the wheel is fitted it shouldn't need to be lifted up to line the studs up. Surely the outer of the hub should take the weight and not the studs?

 

[ACEngineering]

I think what some others are getting at and thinking about it i would agree, the Rim isn't compatible with the hub, either the stud holes are slightly wrong or the hole in the centre of the rim isn't a good enough fit over the hub, rims are normally a tight ish fit over the hub were they sit when bolted up, if it was loose on the hub then all the stress will be applied to the studs and the surrounding casting which will result in cracks like the OP has.

Did someone say its a new holland??? put the serial number in on new hollands website, and locate the part number of the rim that should be fitted to it. Normally you will find the part number stamped on rims near the wheel studs, you will then be able to compare and if they dont match you will have a dam good case to put to the dealer to get it sorted and back date the costs of the last repairs.

 

[Fendtbro]

Would I be wrong in saying that when the wheel is fitted it shouldn't need to be lifted up to line the studs up. Surely the outer of the hub should take the weight and not the studs?

The wheel centre would have to be precision machined for that to work. It's not a slide fit in reality. The hub is just designed to help get the studs started. The studs do all the load bearing

 

[Dave W]

Would I be wrong in saying that when the wheel is fitted it shouldn't need to be lifted up to line the studs up. Surely the outer of the hub should take the weight and not the studs?

Correct. The centre of the wheel rim should fit snugly on the hub.
bolts are only really to keep the rim on the hub. They aren't really load bearing

 

[Dave W]

The wheel centre would have to be precision machined for that to work. It's not a slide fit in reality. The hub is just designed to help get the studs started. The studs do all the load bearing

Rubbish. Shouldn't be any vertical load on the bolts

 

[Agrispeed]

I have experience with chocolate front axles in smaller case tractors too, but never broken hubs like that.

 

[balerman]

That the same as a Farmall 75c as a local farm had one and had similar happen to the op with a loader and shear grab multiple times. Became expensive and only cure was to swap for a larger model tractor . The tractor (75c) also had some really tiny front wheels so the tyres had to be blown up to rather high pressures as meant there was very little bounce for a 4wd that may not have helped

Yeah but if being sensible,you wouldn’t put a shear grab on that size tractor.Full of silage even a small shear grab would be way over 1t…