Hi guys, currently starting to halter break one of my young bulls. He's 10 months old nice bull I have big hopes for. Just wondering what people find the easiest way. I see alot of tying to telehandlers to get them walking, this will obviously be easier than trying to hold on at first, but having never tried it I do wonder how they get on once off the telehandler? Like if they get too used to a machine being there? I've currently just had him tied up to get him used to having it on. Interested in other peoples methods
Halter breaking
- Thread starter jacobl741
- Start date
Pistonbroke
Member
Used to get them used to being tied every day for a week so they learn that rope is boss. If using a tractor or whatever,always have someone walking as if they're doing the leading. Nose clips if he isn't ringed yet
e5c0rt.mk1
Member
Never done it but there is alot of videos of people tying them to donkeys
I've seen that too not sure I fancy trying that
Just a concern if it got tangled on something... Be a bad doo if it somehow hung itself or something
Pistonbroke
Member
Seen them stand quiet for an hour and then throw a wobbler and throw themselves upside down, hanging. Never leave unattended , anyway
- Location
- somerset
we had a young holstein bull, caught one of his hooves, and did some serious damage.
needed dressing every day, so haltered him, and used a bull staff, walked him round every day, good as gold, would stand to let me catch him.
2 months every day, then 1 month every other day, as soon as we left the dressing off, that was the last day l could catch him, and he wasn't that quiet either.
sorted the job, and got him right, which was the idea. But always thought afterwards, that beggar knew we were helping him, and stayed quiet for that 3 months, yet as soon as we/he were finished, that was it, sod off.
ungrateful beggar.
needed dressing every day, so haltered him, and used a bull staff, walked him round every day, good as gold, would stand to let me catch him.
2 months every day, then 1 month every other day, as soon as we left the dressing off, that was the last day l could catch him, and he wasn't that quiet either.
sorted the job, and got him right, which was the idea. But always thought afterwards, that beggar knew we were helping him, and stayed quiet for that 3 months, yet as soon as we/he were finished, that was it, sod off.
ungrateful beggar.
- Location
- Buxton, Derbyshire
Tie him up for a couple of hours to start. Then just let him loose again. Then the next time you tie him up for a couple of hours try to hold the rope when you untie him (for me this is when I decide their outcome, if I can't hold him he's burgers!). Next, each time you untie him try walking him in a small area, gradually getting a bigger and bigger area.
Don't worry if he pulls a bit, or is stubborn, at this stage you just need to make sure he knows he can't get away, and that you are "stronger" than him.
I always tie them up for 15/20mins first before walking them, it gets the pulling out of their system first.
Build his trust in you on the halter, reassure him, keep him calm, give him a scratch and a brush.
Little and often is better than trying to do it in a day.
Having someone follow is helpful to keep a slightly stubborn animal moving.
For me locking yokes have been a god send, you can pop halters on with little to no stress, compared to trying to lasso them or pinning them behind a gate.
Obviously a quiet nature helps.
Some animals never take to it and it's not worth the stress of trying. I've shown lesser animals that walk, over better animals that won't. It makes the show experience far more enjoyable.
I don't like tying them to tractors or donkeys. It just teaches them to move with a tractor or donkey! Not walk for you! You will still need to teach them that, and it might be harder if they've learnt bad habits ie head carriage or crabbing.
I always teach them to walk just on the halter first before putting a ring or clip in their nose. The nose is a handbrake or an encouragement to walk forward. I hate seeing people drag animals around by their nose!
This lad is 14mths and has only been tied up once or twice with the locking yokes.
It's very rewarding and enjoyable.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing you at Hope Show with him
Don't worry if he pulls a bit, or is stubborn, at this stage you just need to make sure he knows he can't get away, and that you are "stronger" than him.
I always tie them up for 15/20mins first before walking them, it gets the pulling out of their system first.
Build his trust in you on the halter, reassure him, keep him calm, give him a scratch and a brush.
Little and often is better than trying to do it in a day.
Having someone follow is helpful to keep a slightly stubborn animal moving.
For me locking yokes have been a god send, you can pop halters on with little to no stress, compared to trying to lasso them or pinning them behind a gate.
Obviously a quiet nature helps.
Some animals never take to it and it's not worth the stress of trying. I've shown lesser animals that walk, over better animals that won't. It makes the show experience far more enjoyable.
I don't like tying them to tractors or donkeys. It just teaches them to move with a tractor or donkey! Not walk for you! You will still need to teach them that, and it might be harder if they've learnt bad habits ie head carriage or crabbing.
I always teach them to walk just on the halter first before putting a ring or clip in their nose. The nose is a handbrake or an encouragement to walk forward. I hate seeing people drag animals around by their nose!
This lad is 14mths and has only been tied up once or twice with the locking yokes.
It's very rewarding and enjoyable.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing you at Hope Show with him
- Location
- North East Wilts
I was told to tie up to an inner tube so there was some give when they pulled back.
your back from melton then? saw your trailer, why on earth do you want to go to that bloody place!Tie him up for a couple of hours to start. Then just let him loose again. Then the next time you tie him up for a couple of hours try to hold the rope when you untie him (for me this is when I decide their outcome, if I can't hold him he's burgers!). Next, each time you untie him try walking him in a small area, gradually getting a bigger and bigger area.
Don't worry if he pulls a bit, or is stubborn, at this stage you just need to make sure he knows he can't get away, and that you are "stronger" than him.
I always tie them up for 15/20mins first before walking them, it gets the pulling out of their system first.
Build his trust in you on the halter, reassure him, keep him calm, give him a scratch and a brush.
Little and often is better than trying to do it in a day.
Having someone follow is helpful to keep a slightly stubborn animal moving.
For me locking yokes have been a god send, you can pop halters on with little to no stress, compared to trying to lasso them or pinning them behind a gate.
Obviously a quiet nature helps.
Some animals never take to it and it's not worth the stress of trying. I've shown lesser animals that walk, over better animals that won't. It makes the show experience far more enjoyable.
I don't like tying them to tractors or donkeys. It just teaches them to move with a tractor or donkey! Not walk for you! You will still need to teach them that, and it might be harder if they've learnt bad habits ie head carriage or crabbing.
I always teach them to walk just on the halter first before putting a ring or clip in their nose. The nose is a handbrake or an encouragement to walk forward. I hate seeing people drag animals around by their nose!
This lad is 14mths and has only been tied up once or twice with the locking yokes.
It's very rewarding and enjoyable.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing you at Hope Show with him
- Location
- Buxton, Derbyshire
Spottedyour back from melton then? saw your trailer, why on earth do you want to go to that bloody place!
Mrs Whitepeak saw the Longhorn calves advertised so we had to go for a jolly
Halter them when young calves, they never forget when you get back to them after weaning. I have used catching yokes to hold them, then halter tied to a post. Walk them in a restricted area to start or around a ring feeder, I've seen walking frames made up behind a mf 35, or failing that if man power is available walk them behind an already broken beast. I've found the ones with a bit of bounce once broken are absolutely fine it's the stubborn ones that can be a bit stop go.
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
I can tell you the way I train foals to lead. Head collar and long rope. Put a turn or two of the rope around a firm strainer post. It is now possible to hold the foal by using friction of the rope on the post.
Hold the end of the rope with the left hand and take a hold of the rope between foal and post with the other (right) hand. Tighten the rope with the right hand by pulling sideways. The foal will initially pull back but is restrained by pressure with the left hand. Immediately the foal stops pulling, release pressure on the left hand. It should not be long before the foal learns that giving to pressure (i.e. moving in the direction of the pull of the rope) leads to less pressure on the head collar. Timing is important. Works for my foals as they work it out pretty quickly and I get the impression it might also work for cattle. Slow and gentle wins the race.
Hold the end of the rope with the left hand and take a hold of the rope between foal and post with the other (right) hand. Tighten the rope with the right hand by pulling sideways. The foal will initially pull back but is restrained by pressure with the left hand. Immediately the foal stops pulling, release pressure on the left hand. It should not be long before the foal learns that giving to pressure (i.e. moving in the direction of the pull of the rope) leads to less pressure on the head collar. Timing is important. Works for my foals as they work it out pretty quickly and I get the impression it might also work for cattle. Slow and gentle wins the race.
Thanks mate!! Well he didn't pull when I untied him today... Stood happy as Larry and was loving a good full while I just held him. I guess that's a good thing! Will Try walking him over the weekend hopefullyTie him up for a couple of hours to start. Then just let him loose again. Then the next time you tie him up for a couple of hours try to hold the rope when you untie him (for me this is when I decide their outcome, if I can't hold him he's burgers!). Next, each time you untie him try walking him in a small area, gradually getting a bigger and bigger area.
Don't worry if he pulls a bit, or is stubborn, at this stage you just need to make sure he knows he can't get away, and that you are "stronger" than him.
I always tie them up for 15/20mins first before walking them, it gets the pulling out of their system first.
Build his trust in you on the halter, reassure him, keep him calm, give him a scratch and a brush.
Little and often is better than trying to do it in a day.
Having someone follow is helpful to keep a slightly stubborn animal moving.
For me locking yokes have been a god send, you can pop halters on with little to no stress, compared to trying to lasso them or pinning them behind a gate.
Obviously a quiet nature helps.
Some animals never take to it and it's not worth the stress of trying. I've shown lesser animals that walk, over better animals that won't. It makes the show experience far more enjoyable.
I don't like tying them to tractors or donkeys. It just teaches them to move with a tractor or donkey! Not walk for you! You will still need to teach them that, and it might be harder if they've learnt bad habits ie head carriage or crabbing.
I always teach them to walk just on the halter first before putting a ring or clip in their nose. The nose is a handbrake or an encouragement to walk forward. I hate seeing people drag animals around by their nose!
This lad is 14mths and has only been tied up once or twice with the locking yokes.
It's very rewarding and enjoyable.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing you at Hope Show with him
as for hope show I don't think he'll be bit enough for any classes this time he's only 10 months but I'm definitely thinking of doing some next year !Attachments
M-J-G
Member
I start with a drag halter for a week or so, towards the end of that week at feeding time I'll grab the halters and tie them to the barrier for a few minutes. This has them half way broken without spending more than a few minutes on them.
From then on I'll tie them up and brush them so they get used to contact.
When walking them it's your choice how you lead them, if you have help so that someone can walk behind them you can try them by hand in a closed off area.
If you don't have the luxury of help, leading them with a machine is often useful.
The main thing is to remember that halter training is an all about fooling the animal into believing that you are stronger than they are, so never allow them to find out that they can easily run off or not move when you want then to.
From then on I'll tie them up and brush them so they get used to contact.
When walking them it's your choice how you lead them, if you have help so that someone can walk behind them you can try them by hand in a closed off area.
If you don't have the luxury of help, leading them with a machine is often useful.
The main thing is to remember that halter training is an all about fooling the animal into believing that you are stronger than they are, so never allow them to find out that they can easily run off or not move when you want then to.
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