Handling round bale silage

Devon lad

Member
Location
Mid Devon
made a lot of bales this year, mainly short length, non-chopped, rocket fuel bales. Not really used to handling mishape bales. They break away from net after wrap taken off and getting to feed area. Does putting an extra round of net on help, or stacking the singular on ends rather than a 3 high stack laid on there sides? Does a bale spike with a tiny spike below or above main long spike help?
Thanks
 

bobk

Member
Location
stafford
made a lot of bales this year, mainly short length, non-chopped, rocket fuel bales. Not really used to handling mishape bales. They break away from net after wrap taken off and getting to feed area. Does putting an extra round of net on help, or stacking the singular on ends rather than a 3 high stack laid on there sides? Does a bale spike with a tiny spike below or above main long spike help?
Thanks

I take the wrap off when the bale has reached it's destination .
 

Devon lad

Member
Location
Mid Devon
Our spike is designed to take 2 bales in from field so spikes are too far apart to get both into one bale. Maybe I could get another tine bush welded in the middle? Tines are pretty long and are kevernland I think maybe not quite 4' though?
 

Devon lad

Member
Location
Mid Devon
Is it nessacery to use a spike with spikes in top of frame to stop bale from tipping or with long times can you use a spike with times in bottom of frame so it's easier for quadrants as well?
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Our spike is designed to take 2 bales in from field so spikes are too far apart to get both into one bale. Maybe I could get another tine bush welded in the middle? Tines are pretty long and are kevernland I think maybe not quite 4' though?
If thats how you shift them you will have loosened the net before they are wrapped. I would modify the spike with two bushes and move the existing spikes over for the winter. Short or chopped stuff needs 2 spikes. Ours are chopped and get 4 layers of net. Lifted with wrap handlers to avoid putting a big air space in the bale also stops bale explosions!
 

Sid

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
South Molton
You need 4ft spike and unwrap where you feed. Sharp knife and gloves.....or a good solicitor if they are like ours. Cows and my tank are loving the rocket fuel.....i don't like the smell!
 

Devon lad

Member
Location
Mid Devon
You need 4ft spike and unwrap where you feed. Sharp knife and gloves.....or a good solicitor if they are like ours. Cows and my tank are loving the rocket fuel.....i don't like the smell!
My Mrs isn't keen on the smell either, I know what you mean by the solicitor, h&s would not approve
 
In what way?
Do you have a tanco?

Yes mines a Tanco.

A bit hard to explain but you have to put the grab over the top of the bale, then squeeze it just enough to pick it up the tip the grab right back and open it up to get the little clamp the hold the wrap. The issue for me is I'm normally trying to split 1 bale between two ring feeders and with a flat bale you end up with 20 % I. One and 80% in the other.
 
Made this 4 years ago to handle straw, and added two more spikes so i could use it as a double bale spike on the loadall.
IMG_20171021_194358158.jpg


Dont usually make many big bales, just about 3 acres, enough for the sheep. Last year i ended up with 150 bales as I couldn't get all the silage in the pit. Not wanting to carry over the bales, i used the bales first before opening the pit. The 4 spike turned out to be very useful.
Open one end of the bale wrap, spike the bale and carry to the ring feeder, pull off the wrap, and unwind the net, because of the 4 spikes i could get the bottom half of the bale to drop into the feeder, leaving the upper half still on the spikes to put in the other feeder. Easy and simple.
 
We use the McHale bale grab with the rollers removed . So 2 x 4 ft tines that go in at just above 5 and 7 o clock. That usually will hold a chopped wet bale for you to remove the net ,when the whole lot may let go , but not before its dropped into our tub!!:)
 

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