Help with setting up a plough

Pre hydraulic top link tractors.Was it right to use the bottom hole on the tractor when affixing a plough ?
With lower link sensing and using the slotted hole on the plough it doesn't make a lot of odds what hole it goes in on the tractor, from a draft / geometry in work point of view....so yeah put it in the bottom one if you need to ...to get the tail of the plough up so as not to bash the depth wheel As it turns over.

On my dp7 I've got the 'swing sideways' type depth wheel so it doesn't matter if it hits the ground as it goes around.... best depth wheel design ever made on a plough ir.

On me dp 8's I made a a slotted top link especially for the job so I could run it at a steep angle ie usei g the top hole on the plough (no the slotted one which is middle) and the bottom hole on the tractor which kept the depth wheel well up in the air on turnover because the type of wheel on them is easy broke with a dap...
The reason I stopped using a hy. Top link is because I didn't think it responded quick enough in float as the slotted hole does if you see what I mean ....dp 8 is a lightweight / draft plough even me 5f


How to you turn this flipping predictive text off ?:rolleyes:
 
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Why's that?
It's a cheap to run semi digger body that works well when conditions are right but it's not very forgiving when they are not. Like in cover that's growing in the spring or drying conditions at the same time, plough early/ in winter helps
YCN or its modern counter part the DD body is more general purpose .....with a much longer board that does a lot more than the ucn board...and slimmer point to compliment it...... slips through the soil and tips it over much better , burying trash / grass well.
 
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Mrs Brown

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Orkney Islands
Tractor looks a bit light in the head so would really need some thing neat but heavy on front linkage, if slotted top link hole isn't being used the tractor hop wouldn't help the ploughing.
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
With lower link sensing and using the slotted hole on the plough it doesn't make a lot of odds what hole it goes in on the tractor, from a draft / geometry in work point of view....so yeah put it in the bottom one if you need to ...to get the tail of the plough up so as not to bash the depth wheel As it turns over.

On my dp7 I've got the 'swing sideways' type depth wheel so it doesn't matter if it hits the ground as it goes around.... best depth wheel design ever made on a plough ir.
Had a dp7 on a 2850 sg2 cab, there was little room between the headstock and the back of the cab, it was always a compromise on top link length between lifting high enough to get the plough to turn over without either fouling the cab or the wheel, wouldn’t advise a hydraulic top link, also can’t remember having a choice of lower link holes.
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Another note in case anybody ever reads this.

I used to have match up problems even with tractor arms at same depth both ways, plough level back to the front and legs vertical both ways and front furrow width correct and the same width both ways. I had adjusted all the beam to point distances to be the same and set up all the mouldboards the same and set rear depth wheel to same both ways. Yet the front furrow wouldn't quite fill going one way but was OK going other way.

The only way round this problem was either

to lower the tractor arms a bit deeper going one way when compared to the other way so the front furrow dug enough to fill the trench

or (which I found more satisfactory)

to incline the plough over a tiny bit from the vertical one way, so that the front furrow ran a bit deeper to better fill the trench.

It took me years to work this out and when I finally did, the tractor gearbox went.

I can only assume the plough turnover shaft was slightly misaligned in the beam so it didn't present same geometry when turned over. Anyway, that's what adjusting screws are for.
The dp7 I had only had the one incline adjuster, slid up and down again in a groove at the front of the plough during turnover. The video of the plough working seems to have disappeared atm., can’t see whether op’s is the same.
 
Skims are just about the only thing I don't take a tape measure for in the field.

just set them deep enough to cut off the top of the surface weed/trash common fault is to run them too deep which upsets the flow of the plough and very noticeably adds to draft clue is in the name 'skim' and it cant make up for what the mouldboard wont do.

have the skim running at an angle thats
just a bit more than the early part of the mouldboard angle ...not to 'square' anyway.... as this tends to bulldoze and not slip the trash in over to be buried but in that shallow working angle what might happen to some trash is that it will miss getting turned into the furrow and slip out past around the tip of the skim to land on top of the following furrow as that bit of green trash has done visible in your video .
To stop that I weld tip extension's on to the skims using old wings etc..and grind smooth the weld of course...these extensions are just long enough to catch that trash so it all goes the right way but allowing a shallow angle for the skim to work at its best cant do that where there is discs very well but if disc on rear body it wont be relevant anyway

Just get someone to drive and walk along beside to observe what is happening to the soil in practise. …and see how upright etc the plough angle from the side etc is running at ...better than trying to watch out the back for awhile whilst driving :D
 
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I forgot to say, try running a bit deeper .. say 8 to nine inches (as long as you don't bring up anything nasty :whistle:) …..it will give you more leeway with regards to setting it up to run nicely .
 
Do not bring up the clay subsoil if you can help it as it makes the top soil more clayier and has made much of the heavy soil harder to make a seed bed
Ploughs are for ploughing sub soiler for subsoiling

When we started ploughing in chopped straw after the burning ban slowing down and not skimming too deep was better for burial
 

New Puritan

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
East Sussex
Re-awakening this thread as I prepare for ploughing this spring, I have decided to treat the plough to some new wearing metal.

The points don't all match at the moment, and the shins are very worn; so both of them are getting replaced. The wings look alright, but do I need to replace them too so as to have them match the points?

Obviously bear in mind this is not competition ploughing (luckily).
 

Flat 10

Member
Location
Fen Edge
Re-awakening this thread as I prepare for ploughing this spring, I have decided to treat the plough to some new wearing metal.

The points don't all match at the moment, and the shins are very worn; so both of them are getting replaced. The wings look alright, but do I need to replace them too so as to have them match the points?

Obviously bear in mind this is not competition ploughing (luckily).
I normally do 2 sets of points at least to a set of shares. As long as they are even don’t bother
 

2wheels

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
It's a cheap to run semi digger body that works well when conditions are right but it's not very forgiving when they are not. Like in cover that's growing in the spring or drying conditions at the same time, plough early/ in winter helps
YCN or its modern counter part the DD body is more general purpose .....with a much longer board that does a lot more than the ucn board...and slimmer point to compliment it...... slips through the soil and tips it over much better , burying trash / grass well.
the ycn body is along slow turn which was made for ploughing shallow/grass. the dd is a digger type which superceded the scn type.
 

New Puritan

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
East Sussex
Why not say roughly where you are in the country then some lovely TFFer might pop round to show you ?????
It does doesn't it? East Sussex. Anyhow, I'm a bit more confident with setting up the plough now (though I still have much to learn), my main concern right now is getting the plough parts up to scratch.

Actually saying that I've not found many of the spares company websites all that easy to use - lots of them don't have prices or you have to open an account. Many of them seem to use a lot of website gimmickery that takes ages to load on my computer. It all seems a bit stuck in the past.
 
the ycn body is along slow turn which was made for ploughing shallow/grass. the dd is a digger type which superceded the scn type.
bodies Ycn, Ucn and its exactly same pattern as... but taller brother Scn (which we used to use for swede and spud ground) are all ransomes design pattern.

the DD is Dowdeswell's own attempt at at designing a modern general purpose board along with DDS which is exactly the same pattern but not as tall, for ploughing shallower.

ive got them all out there, (somewhere :unsure: ) on a various collection of ploughs (y)

dont use them so much these days though, and not so in the future possibly either.:unsure:

i dont take many pics but this is an exmple of DD work , and although this is in dunged eaten off greencrop.. it will plough ley the same and as well as YCN , and generally DD will work ( reliably) better shallower for me than YCN . but i do have the DD bodies on a heavier, therefore steadier in variable ground ,plough.
854522
 
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2wheels

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
bodies Ycn, Ucn and its exactly same pattern as... but taller brother Scn (which we used to use for swede and spud ground) are all ransomes design pattern.

the DD is Dowdeswell's own attempt at at designing a modern general purpose board along with DDS which is exactly the same pattern but not as tall, for ploughing shallower.

ive got them all out there, (somewhere :unsure: ) on a various collection of ploughs (y)

dont use them so much these days though, and not so in the future possibly either.:unsure:

i dont take many pics but this is an exmple of DD work , and although this is in dunged eaten off greencrop.. it will plough ley the same and as well as YCN , and generally DD will work ( reliably) better shallower for me than YCN . but i do have the DD bodies on a heavier, therefore steadier in variable ground ,plough.
View attachment 854522
sorry, have to disagree with you. the ycn and ucn are different. my memory needed refreshing so i looked up spaldings catalogue online and the difference is plain to see. am i beginning to sound like cowabunga?:)
 
sorry, have to disagree with you. the ycn and ucn are different. my memory needed refreshing so i looked up spaldings catalogue online and the difference is plain to see. am i beginning to sound like cowabunga?:)
yes ycn is different , i didnt say it was the same, i wrote that scn and ucn are same pattern, or that's what i meant ..(y)
 

Flat 10

Member
Location
Fen Edge
It does doesn't it? East Sussex. Anyhow, I'm a bit more confident with setting up the plough now (though I still have much to learn), my main concern right now is getting the plough parts up to scratch.

Actually saying that I've not found many of the spares company websites all that easy to use - lots of them don't have prices or you have to open an account. Many of them seem to use a lot of website gimmickery that takes ages to load on my computer. It all seems a bit stuck in the past.
Just ring pan anglia and speak to a person. They will send you a catalogue.
 

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