Help with Top-links.

[stugordon321]

My old IH674 has got a large hole & smaller hole in the bracket to attach the top link. Would this be the larger top hole is cat2 with the lower smaller being cat1 ?

I need to get a hydrolic top link to attach a ppst driver to my tractor & was thinking maybe I could use an old hydrolic ram the right length for this. Would this be strong enough or would the ram be to weak & bend if fully extended?

Finally the hydrolic fittings on the rear are the old screw type (a make screw fitting & a female screw in fitting) like old tipping trailers etc use. For me to change these for QC push fittings is this a simple job of removing the old fitting & screwing on the QC fitting? Or is there more to it?
I have some fittings so hopefully I can swap them over without any problems.
Thanks Stu

 

[joe soapy]

no prob using a ram as a top link, need the ball ends of an old toplink to weld on to ram.
for your application it may payoff to move the toplink attachment on the implement back as far
as possible to give best range of movement

 

[Nearly]

open the ram to full length before welding and remove pipes from ram to prevent pressure build up.


Dowty connectors (screw on) might be 1/2" internal thread or 3/8" so as long as you have the same size quick release female it won't be a problem.

 

[Kidds]

Two different pins you can use for the top link.
Top one for cat 2 and bottom one for cat 1
I have never had a QR coupler screw straight onto where a Dowty coupling was removed, always needed an adaptor of some sort. (that might just be my luck though)

 

[John 1594]

usually, the dowty male (tractor end) is a 1/2" male thread fitted to a female thread on the tractor, so a 1/2" male/male adaptor and then a standard female quick release coupling can fit that side up

the female dowty couplings were usually 3/8 female, so to convert a normal trailer hose you need a 3/8 -1/2 female/male adaptor, then a dowty washer and your 1/2" male quick release end screwed onto that

same applies to the larger exactor couplings, same threads as the dowty 99% of the time, just they were bigger couplings

 

[stugordon321]

Thanks guys I'm impressed. All my questions answered so quickly.
I like the idea of moving the top link as far back as possible to give it maximum possible movement of implements.
So regards the ram I just need to get one roughly the same length

 

[Nearly]

If you don't have a ram 'on stock' look at buying one made up with a check valve. Very useful for everything.

 

[stugordon321]

Presumably I need to find a ram slightly shorter than a normal top li(when closed) so I'll have plenty of movement both ways?
As I say the reason I want a hydrolic top link is I intend operating a post driver off the 3pt linkage. This way it will only need a quick adjustment of the top link in order to keep the mast level & therefore knocking the posts in level.
Hopefully the photos upload. Would anyone know why I have a hydrolic hose with a female Dowty fitting? I've not had much to with tractors but the few I have used only ever had one male Dowty fitting to attach a tipping trailer etc. All I can think is maybe it had a loader fitted at some point. The pipe is conected to the hydrolics as if I push the lever down to operate the hydrolics I can feel the pressure in the pipe if I hold it.
If this would work I would like to keep the male Dowty fitting & swap the female fitting for a QC fitting & add a return for oil via the fitter on top of the rear end. Would this work or do I need to plumb the return in somewhere else? If so where?
The bottom 2 photos show the QC fitting I hope to swap with the female Dowty giving me both old & new connections should I need either.
I can't imagine using different fittings often but if it's as simple as just changing them I may as well.
Thanks Stu

 

[Exfarmer]

You cannot operate a hydraulic top link with your set up.
The male on your tractor is a return pipe.
You will need a spool valve to operate your top link.
This is not that difficult to organise and may simplify operation although you may have a further complication as an independent spool will require a constant feed and it may not be possible to organise without the links being fully raised

 

[Kidds]

I would say most IH such as yours have a constant flow by dumping the flow to the filler bung (we have ours like that). I would guess your extra (male) Dowty fitting is the return plumbed into the axle casing somewhere.
As Exfarmer says. it is just a return so your top link will only move one way on it's own. Plumb it through an external spool block and when under constant flow (tipper lever in up position) the separate lever will work your top link.

 

[Kidds]

edit: as it is for your post knocker you are going to need summat more elaborate as that will be using your spool anyway. Some were fitted with two tipper levers as standard, is yours?

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Realistically you need a post driver with it's own spool valve with an extra slice for the top link ram. You then just use the two couplings on tractor, one to feed and one to return the oil. You can then use the knocker standing beside it. make sure that your handbrake works 100% as they're not an IHs strongest point!!!

 

[Nearly]

Someone on here has a post knocker with hyd top link which has pipes coupled to post knocker valve block with QR fittings so the top link can be used independently on the tractor.

Any good post knocker would come with hyd top link adjustment.

Where are you based stugordon?

 

[Zebbedee]

Hyd fittings on a 674 will be jic thread

 

[tomlad]

would the female dowty , the nut , not be on the trailer chaps ????

and the male , bolt, on the tractor ?

 

[Exfarmer]

would the female dowty , the nut , not be on the trailer chaps ????

and the male , bolt, on the tractor ?

The female on the tractor is a return

 

[Smudge]

http://v2.au.sparex.com/SearchResults.aspx?ClassificationID=95920

I used parts from the above and welded them to a ram. I stripped the ram out completely as I preheated everything first. Works fine for me from the spool block on the knocker, just wished I'd used a slightly shorter ram. Although it's a ford, I've tapped a fitting into the filler plug as it's the least restrictive option when the hammer falls.

 

[joe soapy]

http://v2.au.sparex.com/SearchResults.aspx?ClassificationID=95920

I used parts from the above and welded them to a ram. I stripped the ram out completely as I preheated everything first. Works fine for me from the spool block on the knocker, just wished I'd used a slightly shorter ram. Although it's a ford, I've tapped a fitting into the filler plug as it's the least restrictive option when the hammer falls.

You not the first to use a slightly too long ram.
I just roughly welded toplink ends to ram for a test fit, been like it ever since

 

[Bury the Trash]

made up acouple of toplinks - one big one which took big amps...I worry a bit about spoilling the seals.......
.
Our into. has got 2 returns one in the top and one plumbed iinto drain plug underneath .as
Using a 4 valve double act. monoblock = the single acting knocker.
Other 3 are : toplink, side shift and side tilt only an old parmiter.. but got a heavier weight made up from ship prop shaft.......

 

[Dave]

My old IH674 has got a large hole & smaller hole in the bracket to attach the top link. Would this be the larger top hole is cat2 with the lower smaller being cat1 ?

I need to get a hydrolic top link to attach a ppst driver to my tractor & was thinking maybe I could use an old hydrolic ram the right length for this. Would this be strong enough or would the ram be to weak & bend if fully extended?

Finally the hydrolic fittings on the rear are the old screw type (a make screw fitting & a female screw in fitting) like old tipping trailers etc use. For me to change these for QC push fittings is this a simple job of removing the old fitting & screwing on the QC fitting? Or is there more to it?
I have some fittings so hopefully I can swap them over without any problems.
Thanks Stu

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