JPB
Member
- Location
- North Yorkshire
cost me roughly £3500 ish to make shed i would think. Whats the best way of getting all mounting bolts in the correct places. Im guess laser level but bet its fairly hard to get everything in the correct places.
Home made sheds
- Thread starter JPB
- Start date
Cut some squares from some 15mm ply, drill four holes where the bolts would fit and then mark a cross with the centre in the middle, make one for each hole and fix the bolts and cones to them . Then decide where you want the first hole at one end, put in a profile about four feet away on the two outside sides of this, then run a bit of twine (round bale stuff is good) down the long length of the shed to a profile tie it TIGHT with a loop over a nail so its easy to move, now mark a point with a marker pen in the middle of where you want the first leg and then measure the bay size on each bay and mark this on the string, drive a small peg in the ground so you know where each hole will be. Now fix another string to the second profile on the first hole to give you the gable end holes, mark the distance from where the two lines cross, you then need to do a three,four five triangle to ensure the gable end will be square, when you have done this then put two more profiles in the next corner and repeat at the last corner, if you have measured the triangles correctly the diagonal lengths across the corners will be the same. Now remove the strings by winding them up from one end and leave attached to a profile and dig the holes, after doing that use a laser lever to get the finished pad height drive a peg into the ground in the corner of each hole so the top of the peg is the right height( I make each one 20mm lower than the previous on the long side towards the gutter outflow as it makes fitting them much easier on a long shed and you cant see that much by eye)
Now put the concrete in the holes up to the top of the pegs, refit the strings across the profiles and put the squares with the cones on into the holes, the line you have marked on the ply will run under and be square to the long line and the mark on the string should be over the mark on the string, check the heights with the laser again.
It sounds complicated but was shown by a chap who has put up hundreds and it works well, just dont rush it and measure and remeasure, he often marks and remarks the line several times but he always keeps the centre point of his hole as the middle pen mark so if he remarks the line he adds another to the line to make sure he knows the centre one at each post hole is the one to put the square under.
Oh and DONT let the digger driver hit the profiles
- Location
- Devon
H
Have you ever used pins in the string line, we find it works well!Cut some squares from some 15mm ply, drill four holes where the bolts would fit and then mark a cross with the centre in the middle, make one for each hole and fix the bolts and cones to them . Then decide where you want the first hole at one end, put in a profile about four feet away on the two outside sides of this, then run a bit of twine (round bale stuff is good) down the long length of the shed to a profile tie it TIGHT with a loop over a nail so its easy to move, now mark a point with a marker pen in the middle of where you want the first leg and then measure the bay size on each bay and mark this on the string, drive a small peg in the ground so you know where each hole will be. Now fix another string to the second profile on the first hole to give you the gable end holes, mark the distance from where the two lines cross, you then need to do a three,four five triangle to ensure the gable end will be square, when you have done this then put two more profiles in the next corner and repeat at the last corner, if you have measured the triangles correctly the diagonal lengths across the corners will be the same. Now remove the strings by winding them up from one end and leave attached to a profile and dig the holes, after doing that use a laser lever to get the finished pad height drive a peg into the ground in the corner of each hole so the top of the peg is the right height( I make each one 20mm lower than the previous on the long side towards the gutter outflow as it makes fitting them much easier on a long shed and you cant see that much by eye)
Now put the concrete in the holes up to the top of the pegs, refit the strings across the profiles and put the squares with the cones on into the holes, the line you have marked on the ply will run under and be square to the long line and the mark on the string should be over the mark on the string, check the heights with the laser again.
It sounds complicated but was shown by a chap who has put up hundreds and it works well, just dont rush it and measure and remeasure, he often marks and remarks the line several times but he always keeps the centre point of his hole as the middle pen mark so if he remarks the line he adds another to the line to make sure he knows the centre one at each post hole is the one to put the square under.
Oh and DONT let the digger driver hit the profiles
No I havent, yes sounds a good idea, will try it next time
We use knots and long tape pulled tight from profile Then spirit level down to ply square. Have used man with a total station as well but as they cost over £25000 to buy one will have to stick with tapes for now!
- Location
- Bedfordshire
I've used insulation tape on the string line in the past,pins won't slip.
@PDRD s chap had separate strings tied to his string line and moved them along for his centres. I thought that was a nifty idea, I've used it since for marking post holes.
I'd always re measure after taking down and putting back up a string line, in case it has stretched. I wouldn't trust a fabric tape measure either always check with a proper tape.
Forever Fendt
Member
- Location
- Derbyshire
5 amp crocodile clips are best for the line and a heavy plumb bob to plumb down to template we all ways set the line to the outside bolts so it is easy to visually check bolts are square to the lineCut some squares from some 15mm ply, drill four holes where the bolts would fit and then mark a cross with the centre in the middle, make one for each hole and fix the bolts and cones to them . Then decide where you want the first hole at one end, put in a profile about four feet away on the two outside sides of this, then run a bit of twine (round bale stuff is good) down the long length of the shed to a profile tie it TIGHT with a loop over a nail so its easy to move, now mark a point with a marker pen in the middle of where you want the first leg and then measure the bay size on each bay and mark this on the string, drive a small peg in the ground so you know where each hole will be. Now fix another string to the second profile on the first hole to give you the gable end holes, mark the distance from where the two lines cross, you then need to do a three,four five triangle to ensure the gable end will be square, when you have done this then put two more profiles in the next corner and repeat at the last corner, if you have measured the triangles correctly the diagonal lengths across the corners will be the same. Now remove the strings by winding them up from one end and leave attached to a profile and dig the holes, after doing that use a laser lever to get the finished pad height drive a peg into the ground in the corner of each hole so the top of the peg is the right height( I make each one 20mm lower than the previous on the long side towards the gutter outflow as it makes fitting them much easier on a long shed and you cant see that much by eye)
Now put the concrete in the holes up to the top of the pegs, refit the strings across the profiles and put the squares with the cones on into the holes, the line you have marked on the ply will run under and be square to the long line and the mark on the string should be over the mark on the string, check the heights with the laser again.
It sounds complicated but was shown by a chap who has put up hundreds and it works well, just dont rush it and measure and remeasure, he often marks and remarks the line several times but he always keeps the centre point of his hole as the middle pen mark so if he remarks the line he adds another to the line to make sure he knows the centre one at each post hole is the one to put the square under.
Oh and DONT let the digger driver hit the profiles
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
Am I correct in thinking that some of you are not putting a footing under uprights and simply bolting to the floor?
No dont think anyone is suggesting that what i think some are saying is they put it a deep pad and when the shed frame is up and square then drill through the bolt holes into the base and fix bolts that way. It works but as long as you can set the bolts correctly the normal way is easier and safer
Safety requirements seem to dictate 4 holding down bolts/leg with cones and set in concrete, portals cannot fall over during build this way, and when you have trueing up to do, the stanchions can be manipulated or stretched true and clamped down onto shims to take out height variations. How is this achieved with a resin bond system because you have to pull everything true before you can drill them surely?
aggravated farmer
Member
- Location
- North East Ohio
aggravated farmer
Member
- Location
- North East Ohio
aggravated farmer
Member
- Location
- North East Ohio
Handy people to have around, they make some of the best looking sheds I've seen I think. @aggravated farmer
@aggravated farmeraggravated farmer
Member
- Location
- North East Ohio
Handy people to have around, they make some of the best looking sheds I've seen I think.
The guys we always do business are great. Always like to talk farming (seeing that all of them farm). They like to joke around with each other and whatnot. Good people, can't say a sideways word against them.
aggravated farmer
Member
- Location
- North East Ohio
Stuart Owen
New Member
- Location
- Powys
multi power
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
whats the reason for bolting sheds down? every one i have been involved with have been concreated in