House Build - windows recessed or flush

Hi folks. Getting geared up to take a builder on to build a house, (building regs just passed) and one of the questions that has come up is whether to recess windows slightly or keep them flush. I think the former but looking for examples of other farm houses to see how they’ve retained/created character. Would be grateful to see some photos of your windows! Or anything else that I could be doing on the exterior of a house to help with character.
TIA
 
Hi folks. Getting geared up to take a builder on to build a house, (building regs just passed) and one of the questions that has come up is whether to recess windows slightly or keep them flush. I think the former but looking for examples of other farm houses to see how they’ve retained/created character. Would be grateful to see some photos of your windows! Or anything else that I could be doing on the exterior of a house to help with character.
TIA

How big of a recess do you mean? Windows are always recessed, even if it’s only 30mm?
 

Full of bull(s)

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Yorkshire
Some are almost flush with the outer profile but I’ve seen others recessed back more which from a distance seem to look less bland.

Planners made me recess sash windows behind the brickwork, they were fitted from the inside. It does add character, but two potential problems arose. Firstly, UPVC sills are not made deep enough to clear the brickwork so stone cills must be used, which I was planning to use anyway, secondly if you don’t use stone headers, normal galvanised support lintels above are exposed not something I had taken into account. To be fair unless you walk right up to the window and look up you don’t notice them but it annoyed me at the time, and it was too late to do anything when the windows were being fitted
 
Planners made me recess sash windows behind the brickwork, they were fitted from the inside. It does add character, but two potential problems arose. Firstly, UPVC sills are not made deep enough to clear the brickwork so stone cills must be used, which I was planning to use anyway, secondly if you don’t use stone headers, normal galvanised support lintels above are exposed not something I had taken into account. To be fair unless you walk right up to the window and look up you don’t notice them but it annoyed me at the time, and it was too late to do anything when the windows were being fitted
We’re using stone sills, but will look into your second point, thank you. Could I trouble you for a photo for an example?
 

Ormond

Member
Ive just built an extension with 7 windows and French doors, windows will be recessed 200mm approx.... Inline with the cavity....the wall is 550mm thick
 
Don't think I've ever seen a flush mounted window? Surely the norm is a 100mm window reveal with the window mounted behind the outer leaf (assuming cavity wall)
 

wr.

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Breconshire
There's a nine inch recess with our windows. This was a new build in 1995. Stone arches above the windows and stone sills. Wooden windows which were stipulated by the Nat. Park planners.
IMG_5676.JPG
 
There's a nine inch recess with our windows. This was a new build in 1995. Stone arches above the windows and stone sills. Wooden windows which were stipulated by the Nat. Park planners.
IMG_5676.JPG
That looks lovely. Re the recess of the windows, what was the reason for such an extensive recess? Purely aesthetic?
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
Our new build has windows behind the brick skin. Its timber frame so we have nice deep window boards inside as well. Setting them back keeps the weather off them and allows you to seal them better into the inner leaf. We have aluminium sills onto brick and timber frames, factory painted which should last 20 years. Triple glazed.
 
Location
Suffolk
Traditional sash windows were always put in from the inside. This allowed for the pockets & weights to be out of the elements and also from a visual perspective to show minimal frame when viewed from outside as well.

Me, I like windows set in as much as possible. Again traditoinally with the advent of the 50mm cavity wall the back of the frame sat flush with the inside of the outer skin. Now on Flint houses I used the deeper reveal here to set each window as far back as a sash and the result was spectacular. Plus they weather better. building in flint gave an outer wall of 100mm backed up with a minimum of 75mm then a cavity then the inner wall.

With modern construction methods and no return on the reveals this becomes more difficult as one can't fix into hard or soft insulation! The reveal closer here can then become a structural item to fix into as some are made of composite material. So a 75mm frame will leave a 25mm reveal on the outside. With a composite cavity closer and set back 25mm you will get a 50mm reveal.
Remembering that frames are also becoming wider to cope with wider spacers and even triple glazing and carrying the weight of all that glass. For triple its x3 obviously!

A warning note. Check with your building inspector before crossing the cavity in anyway more than 20mm. There may be added regulations on this and obviously remedies in the construction phase.

This was one of the difficulties we had with having traditional sash windows made and making them for double glazed units, even 4-6-4 added twice the weight. To get over this lead weights needed to be cast but this process wasn't easy. 48 lead weights to cast for 12 windows takes time.

A modern composite Swisspacer for double glazing is now available in 24mm widths so this results in the glass unit being 32mm. Add the extra width required and the result is quite a wide window frame. I'd hazzard that a frame rebated for 32mm units will be 100mm wide and if a composite cavity closer is used you could set the frame back 50mm into the cavity leaving a 50mm reveal.
If you use this co you will get the very best in Argon filled units. https://www.ecoglass.co.uk/
A modern cavity is now 100mm.

SS
 

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