How do you make a MF35 a better starter?
- Thread starter Warp Land Farmer
- Start date
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Thanks, I'll get me tea and be back
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
Not to but in but ive heard of the throght opening thing b4
I believe Lancaster engines now either know what to do or have a jig to help them cuz they've done a few, Malcolm is the man there.
I believe Lancaster engines now either know what to do or have a jig to help them cuz they've done a few, Malcolm is the man there.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Right, it depends on how far you want to go, but if it's using oil, I would put pistons and liners in it, and don't refit bottom oil control ring
As for low oil pressure, the 23rd engine has very big mains, big enough to get the crank out the end, yes that's right, the big end cap don't take off, they are cast as part of the block, and for this reason it takes very little wear on the shells to loss oil when warm, wether you want to do it is up to you, However if the oil pump is good, and good oil in it, then it will be getting lubricant to it, just not holding it in, will run a long time like this, but again if your keeping it long term, then I would do the crank as well when your in there,
The cylinder head, you have done a far bit externally, but it internal where the work needs done, new valves, and just skim the valve seats with a valve seat cutting tool, lap the valves in, and stand overnight with petrol in the ports to find any leaks,
The pre combustion chamber ports need opening out, and want to look like the inside of a church bell , don't over do it, and need to take it off the sharp side of the hole, leave the blunt side as is, best way is the end off a chainsaw file in the drill, but take the grinder to the very end of a short bit of file to smooth it so it don't dig in to the head at all, yet the sides will cut the mouth open
Reason for the valves is, as they wear over time, they drop in more and lower the combustion pressure,
Reason for opening the ports out is, the piston has pasted tdc before chamber pressure is high enough to fire, this let's air in faster and higher pressure,
Timing, there is a TDC mark on the flywheel, needs split for this, with no 1 & 4 pistons on TDC, and cam shaft in right place, to do the cam, with the head on, place a dial test gauge on no 4 rockers do both inlet and exhaust, get them on the rock, ie when exhaust is about closed and inlet is starting to open, is bang on, fit a new chain to sprockets, with the tight side away front tensioner, if it's slack or cannot be fitter without moving the cam, unbolt, 5 bolts hold sprocket on to cam, turn sprocket to next hole, each time you move it a hole, it's 1/4 of a tooth of movement, keep doing it till you get it to bolt on, and chain tight on driving side, slack on tensioner side, and valves are on the rock still, , to check turn engine over twice making sure not to pass TDC, and not to allow it to go backwards, check again, ,
Now the pump drive bush, unbolt the housing off the side of the block remove injector pump, there is an intermediate gear in there, see if any side movement at all, if so this will throw injection pump timing out, if so remove the bolt holding the gear in and remove the gear, new bush will need to be made, I get blanks from bearing factors, and turn to size in the lathe,
After that is done fit injection pump, take side plate off pump, line up G with circlip and refit housing to block,
Once all that's done final check not piston on TDC valves on no 4 piston on the rock, and injection pump on G on bottom hole of circlip
As for low oil pressure, the 23rd engine has very big mains, big enough to get the crank out the end, yes that's right, the big end cap don't take off, they are cast as part of the block, and for this reason it takes very little wear on the shells to loss oil when warm, wether you want to do it is up to you, However if the oil pump is good, and good oil in it, then it will be getting lubricant to it, just not holding it in, will run a long time like this, but again if your keeping it long term, then I would do the crank as well when your in there,
The cylinder head, you have done a far bit externally, but it internal where the work needs done, new valves, and just skim the valve seats with a valve seat cutting tool, lap the valves in, and stand overnight with petrol in the ports to find any leaks,
The pre combustion chamber ports need opening out, and want to look like the inside of a church bell , don't over do it, and need to take it off the sharp side of the hole, leave the blunt side as is, best way is the end off a chainsaw file in the drill, but take the grinder to the very end of a short bit of file to smooth it so it don't dig in to the head at all, yet the sides will cut the mouth open
Reason for the valves is, as they wear over time, they drop in more and lower the combustion pressure,
Reason for opening the ports out is, the piston has pasted tdc before chamber pressure is high enough to fire, this let's air in faster and higher pressure,
Timing, there is a TDC mark on the flywheel, needs split for this, with no 1 & 4 pistons on TDC, and cam shaft in right place, to do the cam, with the head on, place a dial test gauge on no 4 rockers do both inlet and exhaust, get them on the rock, ie when exhaust is about closed and inlet is starting to open, is bang on, fit a new chain to sprockets, with the tight side away front tensioner, if it's slack or cannot be fitter without moving the cam, unbolt, 5 bolts hold sprocket on to cam, turn sprocket to next hole, each time you move it a hole, it's 1/4 of a tooth of movement, keep doing it till you get it to bolt on, and chain tight on driving side, slack on tensioner side, and valves are on the rock still, , to check turn engine over twice making sure not to pass TDC, and not to allow it to go backwards, check again, ,
Now the pump drive bush, unbolt the housing off the side of the block remove injector pump, there is an intermediate gear in there, see if any side movement at all, if so this will throw injection pump timing out, if so remove the bolt holding the gear in and remove the gear, new bush will need to be made, I get blanks from bearing factors, and turn to size in the lathe,
After that is done fit injection pump, take side plate off pump, line up G with circlip and refit housing to block,
Once all that's done final check not piston on TDC valves on no 4 piston on the rock, and injection pump on G on bottom hole of circlip
startinghandle
Member
What is reason for not fitting bottom oil ring?
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
This engine has 2 oil control rings, and with there being 2 the rings scrap all the oil off the liners, no oil no lubricant, so rings and liners wear faster, then lack of compression equals bad starting, ferguson engineers found this our later in the mid sixties, but by that time ferguson had bought Perkins in the fifties to sort the problem out
rick_vandal
Member
- Location
- Soft South
Do you get white smoke when cranking? The oil pressure suggests it's worn out=low compression + slack chain=retarded.
Quackman
Member
Hi, do you have any of these starters left? My MF35 is hard to start too so I'd like to put a quicker starter on it.
multi power
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
I got it from someone on here, can't remember the name, he repairs telehandlers
You probably need to do the timing chain as well
- Location
- Sedgefield
Sell it and get a 3 cylinder
- Location
- Sorn Ayrshire
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Hi, is it possible to get one of these ?Sounds he he had it from me
Send me a PM I can sort you one out.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
no problem, assuming your main land UK as i don't do any export. sent PM
Last edited:
Just thought I’d let you all know what we ended up doing in the end. We decided to get the head redrilled and had 4 glow plugs fitted. Since this has been done it starts every time and within one or two revolutions of the engine. No smoking nothing. Ok it’s not original but hey ho. if anyone wants the details for the guy that did mine Google Otmoor ironworks. Speak to Richard. Very knowledgeable. We just sent our head to him, only cost about £120 and he did the necessary work then sent it back. We refitted the same afternoon and again it started immediately.
We’ve been so impressed with this modification that we have now had the other mf35 also done too. So can say from experience it’s definitely worth it if your not worried about keeping it original.
We’ve been so impressed with this modification that we have now had the other mf35 also done too. So can say from experience it’s definitely worth it if your not worried about keeping it original.
I rebuilt mine 2 years ago. I've got 4 new gaskets on the shelf, all from different suppliers, but obviously all made in the same place, all have the holes too big for the liners and offset to one side.
After a long search for a decent gasket set, I asked my next-door neighbour ( engineer doing bores and grinds etc), he had a couple of old stock AOIP gasket sets on the shelf
. Job done.For the record, I took the advice from @Pennine Ploughing to not fit the bottom oil rings. Mine's all standard in the engine dept, ( apart from the obligatory hole opening out), and it starts OK. Never used squirt on it. Never needed it.
pbg somerset
Member
Old post I know ,but do you have 11 t Iskra for Ferguson FE 35 23 c 4cylinder ?Is it the same starter as a FE35? if so I can do a 4.2kw Iskra for it. that spins them over well
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Hello do you still sell the 4.2kw starters for the FE35? If so how much please?
Cheers