How sharp a point for fencing accuracy?

Will May

Member
Location
Hereford
Re-fencing a horse arena, but instead of using treated softwood which will only last 5 minutes, going to use oak. Getting some 2.4m 10"x5" greenoak sleepers and will cut them down to create three 3"x5" posts from each. Works out about a pound more per post than softwood.
Questions is what point to put on to give the best accuracy when driving them in with a protech post rammer?
Cut a point on 2 sides or 4?
Sharp or relatively blunt?
 

Jameshenry

Member
Location
Cornwall
Definetley point 4 sides and i would try and leave a 1" square flat point to them, if you point them too sharp they will mushroom too easy if you hit a stone
 

Nearly

Member
Location
North of York
Contractor in next village puts everything in blunt, with big knocker.
He does the post and rail for local supermarket family.
'If it hits a stone it just pushes it down.'
 

trev7530

Member
Location
Cornwall
I always point them, but would depend on ground conditions.
I would use redwood if it were me, wouldn’t fancy the job of ripping down green oak.
 

Will May

Member
Location
Hereford
Green oak? As in unseasoned?
Whatever you do don't put unseasoned wood in the ground, it'll rot as quick as softwood.
A few people have said this to me, the sleepers have been in the yard a couple of years so will be a bit dryer than freshly cut from a tree. I can't believe that you would have to wait say ten years for an oak post to fully season before it went in the ground? I've got a couple of 8x8 oak gate posts that were put in green ish 24 years ago which are still looking good and a couple of pressure treated softwood posts that went in 4 years ago that have gone.
 

Will May

Member
Location
Hereford

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
A few people have said this to me, the sleepers have been in the yard a couple of years so will be a bit dryer than freshly cut from a tree. I can't believe that you would have to wait say ten years for an oak post to fully season before it went in the ground? I've got a couple of 8x8 oak gate posts that were put in green ish 24 years ago which are still looking good and a couple of pressure treated softwood posts that went in 4 years ago that have gone.

Couple years old is seasoned!!!
It's untreated oak, not green / full of sap.
You'll be fine with them.
If you wanted to make them last longer charring them will help stop them rotting.
 

Will May

Member
Location
Hereford
100%!

Oak is one of the worst for your lungs. I don't see the appeal. I hate working with Oak in general, the smell and dust is horrible.

Much nicer when we are machining Douglas Fir / Pitch Pine. :love:
Oh no I'm knackered then, spent many a day oak sniffing. Mostly green oak with hand tools so not too dusty.
 

Andrew

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Location
Huntingdon, UK
We put a run of post and rail on a couple of years ago, unpointed on the advice of others on here. Looks perfect and they went in easily enough. We’re on heavy clay.
 

robo

Member
Location
northamptonshire
Re-fencing a horse arena, but instead of using treated softwood which will only last 5 minutes, going to use oak. Getting some 2.4m 10"x5" greenoak sleepers and will cut them down to create three 3"x5" posts from each. Works out about a pound more per post than softwood.
Questions is what point to put on to give the best accuracy when driving them in with a protech post rammer?
Cut a point on 2 sides or 4?
Sharp or relatively blunt?
we always have blunt drive in spot on but it does depend on you soil type
 

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