How to get rid of the curve at the ends?!

[tr250]

I’m a hardcore no-till man these days but do miss a bit of ploughing but don’t miss the endless baked out football size clods and ruts! I’d say that when your wheel goes into the furrow the plough swings towards worked ground. I used to drive 6 inches away until the plough is down and working then slip into the furrow

 

[DrWazzock]

I drop the depth lever in deeper than normal to get a rapid decent on entry, (on my old tractor).
I also drop the lever down as the tractor runs up and out at the end and hits the hedge then reverse and lift before going forward again and turning.

 

[Agriimark]

I normally pull out to the left three times then pull out to the right three times and repeat, works for me. But im not a ploughman. If its all brown side up then thats all that matters.

 

[benny6910]

Always turn in from the un ploughed side and get the plough down just before your back wheel goes into the furrow bottom. So you not driving in 100% straight into the furrow bottom. Drive out and turn towards the land that has been ploughed when you get to the end.

 

[Two Tone]

Your press could be making things a little more difficult for you, because it influences the plough’s sideways position. When you curve starts to get too exaggerated, kick it off early, before the curve starts, before you get to the end, continue to the end, then back up a bit and drop the plough in again to straighten your furrow. Then hopefully because you kicked the press off before the curve started, you can pick it up again on the next run back down the field.

Also, when you turn round, don’t be afraid to drop the plough in a bit at the opposite angle to the curve to “pinch” a bit of land back wider, compensate.
Make sure your check-chains are lose enough to be able to do this.


PS.
You’d think the press would pull the plough more towards the already ploughed bit. But in fact, because the press arm is attached to the front of the plough, has the opposite effect by creating a lever effect of pulling the back of the plough further away from the last run.
That is why when you kick the plough off, it pulls back towards the already ploughed last run.

If you have a vari-width plough, you can compensate for this by temporarily opening up the furrow width on the next run, until you pick the press up again. Then back to your normal furrow width.

 

[Sonoftheheir]

Thanks very much for all your replies, dropping off the furrow when starting has cured the problem! Don’t know why I didn’t ask years ago!

Also having a bigger headland to turn has made it so I’m straight coming out and going back in.

 

[Devil's advocate]

Thanks very much for all your replies, dropping off the furrow when starting has cured the problem! Don’t know why I didn’t ask years ago!

Also having a bigger headland to turn has made it so I’m straight coming out and going back in.

Do you only have the problem when ploughing?

I sometimes have a problem when using the Jones bed tiller/former on ploughing, in that case one bed gets left a bit wider to sort it out.

 

[Agriimark]

Do you only have the problem when ploughing?

I sometimes have a problem when using the Jones bed tiller/former on ploughing, in that case one bed gets left a bit wider to sort it out.

How tight do you run your lift arms, i have mine pretty tight as the bedformer tries to sway its way left to right through the ploughing. Do you bed it the same way as ploughed or at a angle

 

[Will 1594]

Do you only have the problem when ploughing?

I sometimes have a problem when using the Jones bed tiller/former on ploughing, in that case one bed gets left a bit wider to sort it out.

Do you plough work it cross over to tatie ridges

 

[Still Farming]

All to do with your driving and positioning in and out of work

 

[Will 1594]

Your press could be making things a little more difficult for you, because it influences the plough’s sideways position. When you curve starts to get too exaggerated, kick it off early, before the curve starts, before you get to the end, continue to the end, then back up a bit and drop the plough in again to straighten your furrow. Then hopefully because you kicked the press off before the curve started, you can pick it up again on the next run back down the field.

Also, when you turn round, don’t be afraid to drop the plough in a bit at the opposite angle to the curve to “pinch” a bit of land back wider, compensate.
Make sure your check-chains are lose enough to be able to do this.


PS.
You’d think the press would pull the plough more towards the already ploughed bit. But in fact, because the press arm is attached to the front of the plough, has the opposite effect by creating a lever effect of pulling the back of the plough further away from the last run.
That is why when you kick the plough off, it pulls back towards the already ploughed last run.

If you have a vari-width plough, you can compensate for this by temporarily opening up the furrow width on the next run, until you pick the press up again. Then back to your normal furrow width.

Used to alter alinement on plough to counter 3 ton of press and coil ,so it pulled straight ,
and as rest say ,sit on top with back tire so it slips in as you set off ,have ploughed 0000 s of acres with press on side ,quite miss it now ,
7 furrow on land by eye ,and 3 m 900 mm ring press and following coil

 

[Two Tone]

Used to alter alinement on plough to counter 3 ton of press and coil ,so it pulled straight ,
and as rest say ,sit on top with back tire so it slips in as you set off ,have ploughed 0000 s of acres with press on side ,quite miss it now ,
7 furrow on land by eye ,and 3 m 900 mm ring press and following coil

Me too, I’ll miss it now we have gone to Direct-drilling

I think my reply was about trying to prevent or rectify a curve at the ends. Yes positioning from how far along the plough beam helps balance it. But the secret is to not let that curve starting in the first place, or rectifying it as soon as it starts to appear.

I’ve ploughed with a Dowdeswell DP(1?) semi-mounted 8 furrow reversible and JD 8430 articulated tractor with duals all round on top and it takes a little getting used to making sure that the front furrow width is correct.
Then the power harrow was invented which hid all sorts of mistakes!
After that tractor engine blew up the 2nd time, we went for a Ford TW25 and a 6 furrow fully mounted Dowdeswell DP7E+1 and added a press to it.
Actually, because headland turning was so much faster, it did as many acres a day as the JD and 8 furrow (about 30)!

This is no doubt that good ploughing is an Art which needs skill to do it properly.
Having wrecked this farm by shifting to Min-till, I was forced to return to proper ploughing to reduce our Blackgrass burden.
Eventually that reduced enough for us to go over to No-till Direct-Drillng.

Back when I was ploughing, I knew I’d got the plough set as near as absolutely right as possible when almost the only Blackgrass that grew in the field was where it was double-ploughed at the ins and outs on the headlands.
But trying to press the land didn’t help when trying to do a perfect job of getting the skimmers to perfectly throw all the very top of the stubble with any BG seed exactly into the furrow of the furrow before it.
Perfect skimmer setting, Forward speed and the right furrow width were very important and changed with every different soiltype

 

[Will 1594]

Me too, I’ll miss it now we have gone to Direct-drilling

I think my reply was about trying to prevent or rectify a curve at the ends. Yes positioning from how far along the plough beam helps balance it. But the secret is to not let that curve starting in the first place, or rectifying it as soon as it starts to appear.

I’ve ploughed with a Dowdeswell DP(1?) semi-mounted 8 furrow reversible and JD 8430 articulated tractor with duals all round on top and it takes a little getting used to making sure that the front furrow width is correct.
Then the power harrow was invented which hid all sorts of mistakes!
After that tractor engine blew up the 2nd time, we went for a Ford TW25 and a 6 furrow fully mounted Dowdeswell DP7E+1 and added a press to it.
Actually, because headland turning was so much faster, it did as many acres a day as the JD and 8 furrow (about 30)!

This is no doubt that good ploughing is an Art which needs skill to do it properly.
Having wrecked this farm by shifting to Min-till, I was forced to return to proper ploughing to reduce our Blackgrass burden.
Eventually that reduced enough for us to go over to No-till Direct-Drillng.

Back when I was ploughing, I knew I’d got the plough set as near as absolutely right as possible when almost the only Blackgrass that grew in the field was where it was double-ploughed at the ins and outs on the headlands.
But trying to press the land didn’t help when trying to do a perfect job of getting the skimmers to perfectly throw all the very top of the stubble with any BG seed exactly into the furrow of the furrow before it.
Perfect skimmer setting, Forward speed and the right furrow width were very important and changed with every different soiltype

quality farm equipment good old 8520

 

[rick_vandal]

Ins can be easy. www.facebook.com/watch?v=334691051618175

 

[Rs chunk]

Maybe some people are lucky but round here there aren’t many perfect square fields so your rarely ploughing at 90 degrees to headland fence or dyke so I was always taught to turn out onto the headland to the less than 90 side. ie the tight side then reverse back so then you are turning back into the ploughing from the wider side and you have more room for the plough to swing round plus you have a wider than 90 angle to turn into your plough scrape so you don’t have to turn in so sharp, this helps keep your ends straighter. You can get in and not have to reverse back to get straight even when having a small headland

 

[bravheart]

As usual late to the party and just caught up with this. I was always told to turn away from the ploughed ground so the lifting of the plough as you turned made sure the last bit of soil was completely pushed over. It also meant you could let the tractor drop in from the side of the furrow when restarting as the OP has now found out.

Do as I say not as I do though as I'm no ploughman