How to mole & keep fields level in no-till?

[Feldspar]

Had a look through the filing cabinet. This might be of interest. So found it online. I did have some Silsoe publications from earlier but may have been binned.

This looks like a very interesting read, thank you.

 

[Learning Curve]

Apparently we used to mole at 27 inches but now do 24 inches. I wonder whether going to 26 inches would make much difference?

On most of our old drainage plans (1950s - 1970s) it specifies the recommended depth to mole at the bottom of the signed off plan (made to claim grants and kept as a precious document in the office). This was worked out by the drainage consultants exploratory pits to establish the depth of topsoil, start of clay subsoil. Some of our fields are unsuitable to mole and sub-soiling was recommended instead. In the absence of this helpful record, or perhaps even to check it is correct, then maybe more pits should be dug to establish the depth at which the clay subsoil lies. It is worth the possible saving in a shallower mole, if the measured clay subsoil depth allows it .
The original drainage plan also gives the direction to mole the field.

 

[Feldspar]

On most of our old drainage plans (1950s - 1970s) it specifies the recommended depth to mole at the bottom of the signed off plan (made to claim grants and kept as a precious document in the office). This was worked out by the drainage consultants exploratory pits to establish the depth of topsoil, start of clay subsoil. Some of our fields are unsuitable to mole and sub-soiling was recommended instead. In the absence of this helpful record, or perhaps even to check it is correct, then maybe more pits should be dug to establish the depth at which the clay subsoil lies. It is worth the possible saving in a shallower mole, if the measured clay subsoil depth allows it .
The original drainage plan also gives the direction to mole the field.

Thankfully the same family (albeit over 4 generations) have done all our drainage and moling. We have all their maps which they check before moling.

 

[yellow belly]

On most of our old drainage plans (1950s - 1970s) it specifies the recommended depth to mole at the bottom of the signed off plan (made to claim grants and kept as a precious document in the office). This was worked out by the drainage consultants exploratory pits to establish the depth of topsoil, start of clay subsoil. Some of our fields are unsuitable to mole and sub-soiling was recommended instead. In the absence of this helpful record, or perhaps even to check it is correct, then maybe more pits should be dug to establish the depth at which the clay subsoil lies. It is worth the possible saving in a shallower mole, if the measured clay subsoil depth allows it .
The original drainage plan also gives the direction to mole the field.

Some plans have depth of porous often 16 inches
but be careful we have some field where the porous is 20 inches
my father preferred 12 inches when it was grant aided

 

[ZXR17]

I know that the ideal moling conditions are dry on top and through some of the profile to allow for shatter and damp enough at depth to allow the mole to form but would moling now on a frost work ? The ground is pretty wet with surface water every time it rains . I am concerned that the leg will just leave a smeared slot .

 

[yellow belly]

I know that the ideal moling conditions are dry on top and through some of the profile to allow for shatter and damp enough at depth to allow the mole to form but would moling now on a frost work ? The ground is pretty wet with surface water every time it rains . I am concerned that the leg will just leave a smeared slot .

it can be too wet for the mole to form

idealy moleing needs a dry spell after doing it to let the mole harden
heavy rain before it had hardened can cause them to calapse

it may also be too slipery to get enough traction on a frost

 

[Hornet]

I mole every field every year.
But I do every third run so I have a fresh mole every year. It requires rtk, and a will to make a good job, and some extra management because you need to know where to mole each time.

So you are moleing every 3 years?
Is that cost effective, and why are moles lasting that little amount of time?

 

[Badshot]

So you are moleing every 3 years?
Is that cost effective, and why are moles lasting that little amount of time?

It only takes me 2 days to do the farm at those spacings.
So cost is very low IMO.
I'm doing it because it works.
The farm is drier than it's ever been, I don't see the point in letting it get to the point of being wet before remedying it. Keep it good and with luck it'll pay dividends.

I can't normally do bean stubbles because if moist at all the haulm drags along, so not actually doing it every three years in fact.

This ground cracks down well in excess of 4 feet most years so I doubt the moles actually last that long tbh. But when moist it does hold a very good mole.