ifor williams floor pop rivets

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
iirc they are known as floor rivets or floor locks.
they are steel/steel construction, as in not alu rivets as they will let go over time.
best to do what dry rot suggested imo.
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
And your right there but the op question was about floor pop rivets.

The countersunk rivets are used on a lot of trailer floors now, fresh trailer in the yard yesterday and they were in the floor of it.
Used widely in lorry bodies as well.

The screw you have is like a self threading countersunk setscrew, a good strong fastener but unless I'm mistaken I was looking at a new ifor last week and it had the rivets in the floor, speed, aesthetics and cost saving possibly.
Of the two types of fixing here, personally I'd be more inclined to use the floor rivet, it squeezes the buffalo board to the chassis more than the screw version.

Only problem with any of them is picking up the existing holes in the crossmembers when re sheeting the trailer, it's next to impossible unless your unlucky.
Either way hessondriver will have enough to keep him reading for a bit.:)
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
just to clear up some confusion.

this is dry rot's screw,
mono42563281-160322-02.jpg


this is the floor rivet,
fussbodenniet-auf-platte.jpg


and this is a self drilling tek screw,
Countersunk-Flat-Head-With-6-Nib-Torx.jpg
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
It amazes me what a stubby teck screw will drill thru with a cordless impactor
Screw / drill 3mm angle no bother.
I think the ones i like are made by rawl from screwfix or tool station i forget.
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
The screws seem to be called tek screws whenever I hear them talked about.
Search google for “countersunk self drilling wing screws”

Do a Wiki on "screws" and the number of names and types will make your had spin! I've no idea about pop rivets but surely a search of Google Images will come up with something? Tin Man is on the ball.
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
Monobolt rivet
he's a slightly different fella, used mostly in things above the floor, likes of alu cladding to the rails and side sheeting to the galv frames, normally not long enough to pick up the buffalo board and the rail but they are a serious fixing for thinner applications, made of steel so they dont loosen, you need a particular gun for them tho afaik an ordinary pop rivet gun wont install them.
they look like these fellas.
Monobolt-Blind-Rivets.jpg
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
It amazes me what a stubby teck screw will drill thru with a cordless impactor
Screw / drill 3mm angle no bother.
I think the ones i like are made by rawl from screwfix or tool station i forget.
you can get them in a fine thread as well, ive often put them in 8mm thick rsj flanges but they are good up to 12mm thick material.
14e255eb-2f89-484a-a90c-d7dac1d7010f.jpg
 
I’ve read the threads with interest, I have a 1999 Ifor Williams LM trailer, generally in good condition but the loadbed is rotten and needs replacement
Is there a method to remove the fasteners?, I’ve tried heat but the Philips heads just strip, I’ve noticed some have sheared off, is it worth trying to unscrew them or should I just chisel them off?
Toolstation sells TechFast Torx head screws at a reasonable price so the old ones are not worth reusing
How thick is the original floor?, mine is so rotten and swollen it’s difficult to tell, approximately 25mm?
I have a stock of 9mm marine ply, I’m hoping to be able to use 2x or even 3x thicknesses on top of each other, treating each layer with preservative
Any advice would be appreciated
ADEE152B-2E50-4339-8FAC-8D8A3B04D694.jpeg
 

Kidds

Member
Horticulture
I find an impact driver best but it is critical to get a bit that fits the screw heads as good as possible.
Some unscrew some shear off that is the nature of the beast.
Original floor on mine was 19mm and that is what IWT sell as replacement. If you have good marine ply then go for it but I have never found them to last as long.
 

Deutzdx3

Member
I’ve read the threads with interest, I have a 1999 Ifor Williams LM trailer, generally in good condition but the loadbed is rotten and needs replacement
Is there a method to remove the fasteners?, I’ve tried heat but the Philips heads just strip, I’ve noticed some have sheared off, is it worth trying to unscrew them or should I just chisel them off?
Toolstation sells TechFast Torx head screws at a reasonable price so the old ones are not worth reusing
How thick is the original floor?, mine is so rotten and swollen it’s difficult to tell, approximately 25mm?
I have a stock of 9mm marine ply, I’m hoping to be able to use 2x or even 3x thicknesses on top of each other, treating each layer with preservative
Any advice would be appreciated View attachment 907371

Don’t use marine ply. It’s pants for trailer. Call up aalco. They make phenolic ply flooring. We supply it locally to folks. I think about £45 a sheet.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Mate bought some super board off local timber merchants
Looked good, rotten in about a year
Sent it to barlows they did it and a service , wasn't dear still good years later
 

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